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Running Rough as guts 

 

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 Post subject: Running Rough as guts
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:29 am 
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hi everyone, i have an ef xr6 thats running like its only got 5 cylinders firing, now the fuel economy is also shocking at the moment.

Now ive changed both the plugs and the leads to no avail as the last time it ran like this was when i had some buggered leads.

I have the feeling it has something to do with the picture in the attached jpg.


Now i have no idea as to what this thing is but im guessing it maybe a pump or something as it has power going to it and it seems one of the holes is blocked and because of that its not allowing vacuum to travel through to the front of the car that opens a valve that when on my friends ef you unplug it runs like s**t much like mine is at the moment.

Also this object is the one thats bolted up behind the washer bottle just to give a bit more information.

I appreciate any feedback as to what the black thing is and wether i can run the car by just connecting the 2 pipes and bypassing the black object.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:41 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EF Futura Wagon

Location: Toowoomba
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Hmm dunno what that is. But my EF was running rough like yours is. It was definitely missing on no.6 and was erratically missing on 4 and 5 as well. Turned out to be the crank angle sensor having too much crud blocking the signal. Gave it a clean and it was like new. This was after changing leads, plugs, coil pack, checking for vacuum leaks, booster leaks, compression, valves, etc, etc.

Takes about 20mins to remove and clean so it is worth a try. Once done reset your ECU and then do this relearn procedure:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=80624

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:54 am 
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wheres the crank angle sensor? and what did u clean it with?

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:03 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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CAS is just above the timing pulley bolted to the timing cover. Two 7mm bolts should hold it on (there may be a third if it still has a metal shield). Remove the black plastic shield that sits between the power steering pump and the thermostat housing to get better access.

Remove the plug then undo the bolts. A bit a a wiggle and it should come loose. I cleaned it with sand paper first as the gunk was hard as cement. Then degrease and wipe clean.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:16 pm 
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is that the heater tap?

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:19 pm 
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Ride: ford falcon au3 xr8

Location: a shit suburb in sydney
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that thing in the pic is the bbm vac solinoid its for the manifold switching point it switches the runners in the manifold at 3800rpm to give you better performance and it should be conected ....
if you dont have it conected the car will loose a bit of power ..

but it wont have anything to do with it running on 5 cyl or missing...
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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:12 pm 
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ok thanks for letting me know what it is, it seems to make no difference to how the piss poor way its running, though theres no vacuum going from there to the thing up the front of the engine see pic.


i removed the crank angle sensor and it was coated in gunk, so i cleaned it all up so it looks brand new and im guessing on the bottom of the cas its the little silver looking metal part that is the actual sensor? since it was pretty much covered in gunk. Im also assuming you HAVE to reset the ecu for it to go back to normal operation? since i plugged everything back in and it still ran like crud. (which is what i was expecting anyways)

Well ive disconnected the battery and we shall see how it is in a few hours time i guess.

thanks for the help so far guys appreciate it :)

 

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:24 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I would also double check your idle speed properly. Put car into diagnostics (bridge the top left to bottom left pins of the diagnostics connector in fuse box). Disconnect ISC and place a 0.75mm feeler between throttle stops. Start car and wait about 1-2mins for everything to stabilise (car is running diagnostics). Set idle speed to around 750rpm while in drive with all electrical loads off. Turn off car remove diagnostics bridge, hook up ISC, remove feelers. Start car and run the relearn procedure I posted in the above link.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:27 pm 
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HI

There should be a vac hose that runs to that switch in the first pic and a vac hose that runs from that switch to that diaphram on the front of the manifold.. it should have vaccum when the engine is running and when the engine reaches 3800rpm the ecu cuts power to the the solinoid releasing that diaphram. if there is no vaccum you might have a blockage or its not connected corectly..

if it has no vaccum your loosing low rpm torque...

but this wont help you other problem.....
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Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 2:12 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
HI

There should be a vac hose that runs to that switch in the first pic and a vac hose that runs from that switch to that diaphram on the front of the manifold.. it should have vaccum when the engine is running and when the engine reaches 3800rpm the ecu cuts power to the the solinoid releasing that diaphram. if there is no vaccum you might have a blockage or its not connected corectly..

if it has no vaccum your loosing low rpm torque...

but this wont help you other problem.....



it appears to be a blockage since when its connected theres vacuum on 1 of those hoses and it doesnt release the diaphram but if i remove the black thing from my 1st post and connect the hose that goes to the diphram in the 2nd pic it then gets vacuum and in turn the diaphram starts workign again, so im assuming the actual thing from the 1st pic is either buggered or has a blockage inside, is there anyway to open it up since i had a quick look and didnt want to break anything.
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