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 Post subject: SS induction
Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:31 am 
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I'm thinking about getting a stainless steel CAI into my AU2 EECV.

I'm thinking, rip out the current airbox and snorkel, then merely attach a mandrel bent stainless steel pipe from the throttle body and connect a K & N Pod filter to it.

Just a couple questions.

1. Whats the legalities of the above?
2. Is it okay to have the pod completely exposed, and not concealed in the airbox?
3. Should I still leave the snorkel redirecting air? (I figure it can't hurt)
4. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having the pipe start out a bigger size, then to what it connect into the throttle body at? That is, get a 5" K&N Pod, and connect it into the 3" throttle body (unsure exactly how big it is)
5. Is Stainless Steel ok? It wont get too hot etc?


Thanks
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Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:37 am 
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do a search man. :) or maybe donty listdent to me causew im fuked

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 4:13 am 
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Bangers, from memory i think you have to have it contained...but anyway, why the hell do you want to suck hot air in from your engine bay? cold air is denser therefore better as far as power and response goes..

5" inch into 3" inch will probably make sweet fa difference

your probably better off ripping your snorkel out, and sticking one with a bigger mouth in...im guessing an AU XR8 one would fit, and replacing the standard filter with a washable hi-flow one

as far as the stainless steel pipe getting hot...most stuff in my engine bay is a little warm after some spirited driving, but if its used on exhausts...im sure it would be fine for just an air intake :P

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:22 pm 
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Any metal will suffer from heatsoak a bit, but so will plastic.
If you powdercoat the stainless, that will help a bit.
I'd save some cash and stick with the standard airbox arrangement though.
Bigger snorkel, and check if there's any restriction from airbox to TB.
i.e. a reduction in size into the airbox.
The way Ford setup there induction is better then most other manufacturers, it flows a fair bit, and won't max out unless you're planning some serious mods.

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:47 pm 
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Well, I've already changed the Snorkel to the Tickford one, and I've got a K&N Panel.

However, I was looking to do the pod purely for the sound. Sounds awesome.
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Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 2:15 pm 
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Buy a BA GT Pod Setup, BMC Pod, BA I6 Intake & Piping, Cover the BA GT Snorkel hole and cut a fresh hole (or 2) to get air from a au xr snorkel or/and from a pipe running from brake ducts (IF you have a EF/EL). You will ge the pod sound and huge difference in power and rev smoother.
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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 1:38 pm 
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Can anyone see any issues running a 3" Mandrel Bent SS Pipe from the Throttle body, to the Airbox, running a pod in the box?

Basically, like this pic, BUT 3" SS mandrel bent from TB to Air, not plastic.

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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 2:08 pm 
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You could try wrapping the stainless steel bits in exhaust heat wrap, I know that it is designed to keep heat in the exhaust but if the heat source is coming from the engine then I would guess that it keep the heat out.

would not look as neat though.

just a thought:)
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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 6:13 pm 
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Just a note, I did some investigation into intake temps recently.

I found that with the engine at normal operating temp and at cruise the average air temp is 8-12 deg above ambient. Climbs to 20deg above ambient at the lights and falls to 5deg above ambient when accellerating.

But heat soak is the biggest issue. After parking the car for 15min intake temp was a massive 40 deg above ambient and took about 8min to fall to the normal 8-12 deg above ambient again.

I have an EL manual with a BA intake and other minor mods.
I would say look at making the pipe out of a material that resists heat transfer - or wrapping it as suggested above. Also make it as thin as possible to minimise heat soak.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:10 pm 
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Quote:
"Spork"Also make it as thin as possible to minimise heat soak.


wont a thin piece of material transfer the heat faster.. as there is less material for the heat to have to work thru?

</random thought & outburst>
*gets back in box*

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 1:22 am 
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zk wrote:
Quote:
"Spork"Also make it as thin as possible to minimise heat soak.


wont a thin piece of material transfer the heat faster.. as there is less material for the heat to have to work thru?

</random thought & outburst>
*gets back in box*
got any mates in the building industry? ask for some aluminized thermal insulating material.

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 12:42 pm 
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zk wrote:
Quote:
"Spork"Also make it as thin as possible to minimise heat soak.


wont a thin piece of material transfer the heat faster.. as there is less material for the heat to have to work thru?

</random thought & outburst>
*gets back in box*


That isn't the issue with heatsoak.
Heatsoak is when the actual piping absorbs the heat and becomes hot, therefore heating the air as it goes through it.
Therefore something thicker, while taking longer to actually heat up, once it does, it will take AGES to cool down again.
A thinner material will heat up quickly, not hold that much heat, and cool down quicker.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 12:59 pm 
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however, it depends on your driving situation and style. you have to consider the actualy hole in the pipe and the holes in your airbox etc to. there isnt that much play so i can imagine it would be about the same anyway. thin pipe also break easier to.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:16 pm 
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gee you sure dug up an old one here

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:05 pm 
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SS Induction do a set up which replaces the air filter box with a pod filter that connects on there snorkel. Exy but.

 

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