I just fixed the cat, it wasnt too healthy.

Fuel filter - is it inline or at the fuel tank? any tips on changing it?

Oh and ill check the leads later tonight as brandoando suggested.

Okay I didnt get a chance to test the leads, however it still does it. Its fine cruising, and even 3/4 acc. It did it pretty bad in 5th lugging from about 1500rpm to 2000rpm, but if I backed off just a touch it didnt do it.
Could it be pinging?
It really feels like a spark related problem, and its audible from outside the car. I was driving along side those concrete barriers for a bit, and the reflected sound was quite obvious. It was sort of a dull doomp, but very quick. sort of..
I think its the coil or leads.

Any one wanna tell me how to change the fuel filter?

Just had a look at the engine block again - theres some green coolant between 4th n 5th cyl, but the oil is fine. its not blowing any smoke tho.

gasket time dude.

As far as I know it's underneath the car but i couldn't tell you an exact location. follow the fuel lines underneath the car from the tank to engine and hopefully you should find it.

The fuel filter is located near the rear passenger side, under the car. It is hidden behind the chassis rail. If you lie on the floor and run your hand along the chassis rail you will eventually touch the filter.

To change it you'll need to jack the car up. You can just jack it up on one side but make sure you support the weight with jack stands or something similar, don't do it with just a tyre changing jack.

Before you jack it up though, you have to reduce the pressure in the fuel line. To do this, you can either remove the fuel pump relay located somewhere in the engine bay (I forget where) or unplug the fuel pump via the fuel pump access hole in the boot. Start the car, if there is enough fuel in the line the car will idle for a second or so before it stutters to a halt. Turn the key to crank it over a couple of more times.

The step above should reduce the fuel line pressure, but I like to be cautious and wear goggles and try to undo the bolts with my head away from under the car. You will need 2 open ended spanners. I am unsure as to what sizes, but one is bigger then the other (I'll take a stab, 15mm and 18mm, I could be way off). The bigger spanner will be there to stop the filter from rotating and the little one to undo the retaining nut. Make sure you use the correct sized spanners...or else you can round out the retaining nut and the s**t hits the fan from there. For now you can just undo one side to drain some of teh remaining petrol in the line. Get a tin can to catch some of the remaining petrol in the line. I would think there would be maybe 100mL or so left in the line including the remaining petrol in the filter.

Once it has stopped dripping you can undo the other end and remove the filter completely. Get the new filter (Get a Ryco brand one...better then Valvoline IMO...because there are no rubber seals needed) and chuck it back on, tighten up the bolts, connect the fuel pump or relay back in and turn the key to prime the line first...check for any leaks. If tehre are no signs of leaks, then take it for a test drive. If it stops stuttering you just solved your problem.

If you really want to know how badly blocked your filter was. You can try and blow into and see if any air passes through easily. My old filter was so clogged I had puffed red cheeks, eventually all the crap that was in there was forced out and all I can see was black thick soot on the floor.

Good luck with the filter change if you plan on doing it yourself.

phong =P~

Any one in town you'd recommend? My normal mechanic is Trevor Waterhouse, across from the furniture part of Harvey Norman.. Bacon st I think.




Thanks for the info on the fuel filter too, hopefully the car can last ~800kms before the gasket blows - I have to go up to gold coast this w/e.

i do mine myself,but grafton automotive in villiers st may be ok.

You did your h/g yourself?

I service my car myself, but I dont think I'd be too confident doing a h/g. I know a mechanic who'll do it for $500 inc machining the head. Good price?
I think I'll get a cam while the heads off too...

ep,me and the mrs did the hg on both the 3.9 and the 4.

the 4 we did last year and its still going strong.

Right - problem found. No spark to cyl 5 = dying coil pack. Every other cyl has spark, and the lead for no 5 has been changed. Looks like I'll be buying a new coil pack.
I can get a new one fitted for about $150 by a local mechanic. Good price or is it worth d.i.y.'ing?

sweet, i have a similar problem and now that tthis one is resolved im gonna ask here instead of starting a new thread.

my car stutters/hesitates below 2000rpm on part throttle when im trying to accelerate. Once it gets above 2000 it makes it feel like i get a big rush of power cause it runs properly. Its usually when i have been cruising along and go to accelerate, rather then off the line. Cheers

someone must know the answer...i have checked and its not a headgasket issue from what i can see. What resistace is the maximum i should have on my leads?

resistance varies from no.1 and no.6 lead, but generally its between 9 and 11 ohms

Also depends what kind of leads you have, cause my Eagle 9mm's had between 0 and 1 ohms resistance.