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Testing new Wade Cams Profile 1636 

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:20 am 
Getting Side Ways
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If you are running an Auto or a stock ECU

DO NOT GET A 1521a

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:45 pm 
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Walkinshaw wrote:
If you are running an Auto or a stock ECU

DO NOT GET A 1521a



cheers thats out so its a 1636 or a 1604 ????? if ya hadnt noticed im in the learning process about cams..
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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:12 pm 
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1636 or 1004/114 are the two I'd choose from.

Previously i had a 1004/110 in my car it had fantastic low end grunt and rattled off 2.2 60's with regularity, swaping to the 1521a has lost bulk low end to the point that it will only cut 2.4 60's.

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:31 pm 
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personnaly i would rather the lower to middle part of the rev range to have more tourqe
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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:28 pm 
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the 1636 has 2000rpm to redline torque for me, now that things have straightened up with this cam, i have that lowdown power that opto was talking about :)

i love this cam !

- Grechie

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:42 pm 
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Got a 1/4 mile time Grechie and is your ride an auto or manual. Have saved up $1500 and are looking at the 1636, 4499 pacie's and lukey exhaust. Good to hear your enjoying the low down grunt of the 1636 cos thats what im looking for.

 

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4.0L EF Fairmont Station Wagon. EL GT Snorkel. K&N Pod in air box. 3" Intake piping.
Home port job. 1636 Wade cam. Wildcat Extractors, 2 1/2" cat and exhaust.
2200/2400rpm Dominator More Stall. Stage two mechanical shift kit. 3.73 4 pinion LSD. 15.078 @ 92mph.

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Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:40 pm 
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Jim Mocks Dev3HL is a good cam too if you don't mind doing the valve springs too and it does go OK with the stock ecu. Not the cheapest option but you get what u pays for. Dev4 also OK but better with head mods and no HD valve springs required.

I am happy with the dev3hl though.

of course I still want more power but for an auto wagon its a good match.
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Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 8:06 pm 
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Im still very interested to know just what difference the 1604 and 1636 have.

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:53 pm 
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just had the 3:27LSD installed...i must say whoa, wot a change from 2.77, i can now confirm from 20km onwards the car pulllllllllssss i mean pullllss! i will g tech my car asap, but for now, as a test i was just driving around and it goes now, in D with power on (its never done this b4) but it went all the way to 5500rpm then into 2nd at 90km/h...it pulls hard , as i sed b4, now i know wot opto was on about, torque has increased, ive got stock ecu and auto, and extractors, high flow cat and 2.5 redback, pod, and cam now, this thing moves now, im happy with this installment...

bug..i think the difference is more starting power lower down in the gears, and also this cam is a bit lumpy for me, it stalls on me heaps!!! (even wen turnign a corner at low low speeds)... n it idles a bit lumpy (not as bad as 1004.) im also going to get this dyno'd at williamstown dyno soon, it feels very fast i must say now.

cant wait for a result


- Grechie

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 1:57 am 
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I see, I find even the 1604 idle isnt perfect on my auto. It hunts a bit at traffic lights and if you break hard to a stop then it tries to stall sometimes.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 3:10 am 
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Bug wrote:
I see, I find even the 1604 idle isnt perfect on my auto. It hunts a bit at traffic lights and if you break hard to a stop then it tries to stall sometimes.




no cam other than stock will idle or perform properly without an aftermarket ecu

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:28 pm 
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And Grechie feels the power woo hoo...

I had my timing set for 12 degrees and its running fine, may be just up the idle a bit.

If you retard the timing more to like 20 degrees you get more torque but not the right timing point to run it.

You should try it with a 3.45 to 1 diff (figuratively speaking) Grechie, I know its only a small amount but woo hoo.

The trick with an auto tranny it is geared at around 2.95 in first gear, you need a lot of torque to get it spinning, if you increase your diff ratio, it needs less torque to get it to turn over.

If I am wrong someone correct me

First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 2.77 =5.72:1 total
First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 3.27 =6.22:1 total
First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 3.45 =6.39:1 total

But you lose top end speed but if you are up there all the time you are going to be dead or lose your license.

If you go any higher than 3.45 I believe you can't get a speed transducer cog to suit and fuel running costs go up and at the top end your engine is revving harder therefore using fuel and engine wear.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:35 pm 
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Tickford_6 is right its a compromise partially due to the manifold pressure change, the ECU doesn't know how to deal with it that's why it goes up and down, and I don't know if there is a way around it other than a chip or aftermarket ECU.
You can tune it as best you can and it should be okay to drive without stalling, I got mine to.

Since getting a Unichip mine idles smooth also I wanted to get rid of the fuelly smell from the exhaust.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 4:44 pm 
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When I was thinking about changing diffs, I put together this excel spreadshett showing the differences between a 3.08 (what I've got), and the two I'd decided on 3.45/3.7.

Image
Graph shows what speed/rpm you'll be doing for each rpm/diff ration for a 4spd.

I currently have a 3.45 waiting to be installed.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 7:15 pm 
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you WISH the auto had a 2.95:1 1st gear!!

Both the 3 and 4speeds have a 2.39:1 1st gear

 

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