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Testing Sensors 

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 1:15 pm 
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nope fuel guage was perfect as i filled it up from full and only put in 20L worth of fuel. I couldn't believe it :lol:

mind ya that was highway travel and around city travel including 100kms in peak hour traffic (melbourne's peak hour traffic that is) as well as a little bit of spirited driving :wink: in around 1/4 of a tank it has done 265kms :lol:

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 6:03 pm 
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Did 200km today combined city/hwy and averaged 15.5.

Car used to be good on fuel, getting around 600-700 per tank.

What I will do is put the new power steering sensor in, and new intake manifold, throttle body and ISC gaskets on. Plus the manual gearbox I have is going in this weekend or the weekend after (yeah gettin a little ahead of myself in the sig....lol can't wait).

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:36 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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well i actually stopped by my mates new workshop and he ran some tests with his new machine he has. No faults out of the ordinary showed up :? mmmmmmm



did some more tests and guess what......... valve burnt out in No.3 cyclinder :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:41 pm 
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if ur cars cam sensor and o2 sensor were rooted u would not get any where near that amount on a tank, the car would be running rich causing it to use more fuel and with the cam sensor gone it would not be running in sequential injection so, then that will also effect ur econemy and preformance
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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:44 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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yeah well we found out that cause the valve was burnt out and hence not getting enough compression (85) that is what was causing the wrong reading and which is why the oxy sensor was picking up that it was faulty as there was unburnt fuel travelling through it :evil:

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 9:38 pm 
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Did a compression test today too.

All good except cylinder number 1, it's nearly 400kpa down on the others which were really consistent. Poured some oil down it and it came good so yeah f**k ring in that cylinder.

Bit annoying, but at least that explains why I lose about 500mL of oil between changes (5000km).

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:05 pm 
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yep thall do it

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:36 am 
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If you're pulling the engine out to put manual in, then do the piston rings when you do that.. might aswell. If not, well...fix it soon, you can get some headwork done too, or take the block somewhere, and get it cleaned, and whatever else you might need... will definately go better, and with better fuel economy after that.

Also if you're change the piston rings, do all of them.. And if you can be bothered, I heard the ED pistons were flat dished :wink:

Must suck to have a piston ring go... but its s**t like that, that'll give you an excuse to get something better. And atleast you found out what it was.


Cheers

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 10:49 am 
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Hehe yeah it sucks, but your right it lets you go and get something better.
I've been wanting an ITS rebuild, will probably just save up for a Stage 1 or something...

Does my EBII have an ED motor anyway if the dipsticks and stuff are all yellow? It's like a mid-late 93 model...

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 8:35 pm 
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There's not that much difference. Ive got an XH engine in my series 2 EB, and all the dipsticks are yellow, and the head says 94DAT or something rather... (assuming its an ED/EF head)... EB's weren't made in '94, so check the head?


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