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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
my EB is on SL springs. i can change the oil. without a hoist. in 10mins.
park car on level ground turn wheels all the way to the left. take off oil cap drain oil remove filter (i use a ratchet with an extension and a claw filter remover) oil will go on the K frame. nothing a old rag won't fix fit new filter (put a smear of the old oil on the rubber ring) once filter fit. clean oil off k-frame refit sump plug put in new oil. i put in 5.5L start up and let idle for 10seconds. check oil level is okay
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Mosqeeto |
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Thanks yea, I think i can do that fine, only problem for me will be locating the oil filter on the ED since i don't know where it is, I saw some of the oil filter change docos and looks really straight forward, next week i guess ill have to go buy a wrench and oil bucket.
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| bry40l |
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The oil filter is on the passenger side towards the front of the engine
_________________ BF XR6 |
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| 87SIlude |
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Don't even need the filter tool on these cars. The z9 is huge can get a right old grip on them bastards. But like you've said you havnt changed it it could well be stuck tight.
But its is a easy job. An oil filter change on any car that runs a single filter set up is basically the same. Remove filler cap, remove sump plug, let oil drain (into drain tray prefferably), remove filter, lube and install new filter, fit new sump plug washer and install sump plug. Fill with ~300ml less oil then then reccomended, start & run till oil light goes out or engine reaches pressure ~10 seconds, turn engine off and check level on level ground. Add as needed. From the low mark to the full mark on the dipstick is usually 1 liter. So if its half way between L and F add 500ml. |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
thats why i said turn wheels all the way to the left. the oil filter can be seen through the wheel arch
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Greenmachine |
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Messing with different thickness oil is really just a masking exercise - the tapping is for it's own reason and not actually related to the oil as such - excepting that different oil MAY work as remedial.
The result of doing that seems to vary from case to case - some have success with thicker, some with thinner. I'm talking about the tapping issue - not about the whole which oil is good/best issue. A filter with good anti drainback system like Motorcraft is a good thing and always helps. And for what it's worth, I've run my ED for several minutes (at idle - ie. not driven) with diesel in it instead of oil - doing the old landy engine flush trick - and it ran fine, no noises had absolutely normal oil pressure - so as I say, without some sort of basic issue being there, just a "thin" oil shouldn't be causing tapping.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
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| WiggyMK2 |
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In a car of that age and kilometres, I would be running a 20w50. Something like a Nulon High Ks top quality mineral oil. If the engine had done lower Ks, I'd say go a 15w40. I don't see the benefits of using anything thinner at startup than a 15w if it is already making noise. The old EB engine wouldn't have been made to tolerances that require such a thin oil.
Anyways, thats just my 2c Wiggy |
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| CPOCSM |
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The EB SXR8 runs KMX 20W50 in it(SG/SC I think) and the tapping has stopped(used to tap for 2-3 secs after cold start). I change oil AND filter at 5000km or 6 months without fail and is still clear and no sooting of the oil is noticed.
Cost is $19 for 5 litres and is made by Castrol I believe. Recommended highly and has done many long trips and no swarf in the sump. Oil pressure went from just below half to 3/4 and I am happy. I also use this in the mini(1977) and the sump again has no swarf at all plus a lot quieter(remember an old school mini gearbox and diff is in the engine sump...). I always grab two x 5ltr bottles and keep the other 4.5 litres in the boot(5.5 to fill my sump) Yes you can spend $70+++ for a fancy oil; however, as long as it meets the standard in your users manual, you won't have an issue. If the tappets are still tap-dancing, might be time for a replacement of the offending items. Good Luck Hooroo |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
but the 5L V8 take the 20w50 standard
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
CPOCSM wrote: The EB SXR8 runs KMX 20W50 in it(SG/SC I think) and the tapping has stopped(used to tap for 2-3 secs after cold start). I change oil AND filter at 5000km or 6 months without fail and is still clear and no sooting of the oil is noticed. If your oil is still clear at 5000km it isn't doing it job very well, unless it runs %100 LPG, Burning petrol is a dirty process, and it will get past your rings. |
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| Kelso96 |
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The first time might take you some time, but when your done, you'll realize how straight forward and simple it is, then after that it will be a walk in the park, or riding your bike....
_________________ '96 EFII Fairmont Ghia |
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| dazza027 |
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When my EB, which has about 350k on the clock got the rattly tappets, I chucked some 20/50 sludge into the motor which made it worse. So I grabbed a long screwdriver and with the motor running I did a quick ear test and deduced 2 of the HLA's were shagged. Grabbed 2 HLA's from Repco (thieving f**k charged $29 ea) and in about 45 minutes and 800,000 10mm rail bolts later, had the oil and filter changed and the 2 new HLA's in. My engine as I said has done some K's, but its running on 15/40 now and its sweet as a button. Just need to get the new timing chain and tensioner now when I get keen to do something...
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| CPOCSM |
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tickford_6 wrote: CPOCSM wrote: The EB SXR8 runs KMX 20W50 in it(SG/SC I think) and the tapping has stopped(used to tap for 2-3 secs after cold start). I change oil AND filter at 5000km or 6 months without fail and is still clear and no sooting of the oil is noticed. If your oil is still clear at 5000km it isn't doing it job very well, unless it runs %100 LPG, Burning petrol is a dirty process, and it will get past your rings. Well it is doing its job then as I have had compression across all cylinders of 210 and nil sooting of the oil. No deposits on the valve gear nor the sump. Car is started on PULP and then trips over to LPG when the temp is up to 55 degs. I think there is wayyyy too much hype out there about the virtues of high priced oils - IMHO 300,000k on the KMX in a mini and the ringlands are still clean says a lot for the oil - suspension of crud in the oil is usually signs of abuse and neglect. Proven that oils are not all they are cracked up to be(esp. the Penrite poop!). Try it and see for yourself - cant hurt now, can it? |
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| CPOCSM |
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uniacidz wrote: CPOCSM wrote: tickford_6 wrote: CPOCSM wrote: The EB SXR8 runs KMX 20W50 in it(SG/SC I think) and the tapping has stopped(used to tap for 2-3 secs after cold start). I change oil AND filter at 5000km or 6 months without fail and is still clear and no sooting of the oil is noticed. If your oil is still clear at 5000km it isn't doing it job very well, unless it runs %100 LPG, Burning petrol is a dirty process, and it will get past your rings. Well it is doing its job then as I have had compression across all cylinders of 210 and nil sooting of the oil. No deposits on the valve gear nor the sump. Car is started on PULP and then trips over to LPG when the temp is up to 55 degs. I think there is wayyyy too much hype out there about the virtues of high priced oils - IMHO 300,000k on the KMX in a mini and the ringlands are still clean says a lot for the oil - suspension of crud in the oil is usually signs of abuse and neglect. Proven that oils are not all they are cracked up to be(esp. the Penrite poop!). Try it and see for yourself - cant hurt now, can it? I have tried Valvoline Durablend, Penrite, Shell Helix and Mitsubishi oil and also Royal Purple Choice from best to least favourite Royal Purple Valvoline Durablend Mitsubishi Shell Penrite Royal Purple is high price initially but over 10000kms is when i have to change it and also the filter In the end i save money, and the oil is far the best oil i have ever used. Keeps getting better and better in my car and has done about 2500kms already. Unless you try it, dont knock it. I was sceptical but im a believer now. Costings per 10000kms Royal Purple 10w40 x1 - $78 Lucas Oil Treatment - $11 Motorcraft USA FL1A Oil Filter $9.98 Total for 10000kms is $98.98 With Normal oil i usually change the oil and filter every 5000kms so hence over a 10000kms period its double the price and that price is reflected below Valvoline Durablend 15w50 x2 (every 5000kms) - $72 Motorcraft AFL1MC Oil Filter x2 - $24 Lucas Oil Treatment x2 - $22 Total for 10000kms is $117 Hence why I didn't mention Royal Purple as this was the oil I had in the Skyline. I found no discernable benefit using it over something that was $40 cheaper. Each has their preferences; however, never discount the cheaper alternatives. As a result of using the RP, my skyline was running a higher oil temperature and the cams were a syrupy brown colour. I went to the Helix from shell and after 5000km, the cams were back to a more metallic clean look with a significant drop in oil temperature. This is just my spin on the oil, it may have been different for others; however consistency over many cars and lots of oil changes kind of keeps me wary of the more expensive oils. I have no doubt they work for people; however, not for me. Hooroo |
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