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Timing Chain Tensioner Guide Snapped? 

 

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 Post subject: Timing Chain Tensioner Guide Snapped?
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:25 pm 
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G'day Guys,

Well started the Head Gaskit replacement on my EL XR6 Manual, and all was going well, got the head off fine (making sure I undid the plastic chain guide bolt on the right side front of the head), and then started removing the old gaskit when I noticed that the chain guide, on the tensioner side (drivers side of the engine, metal one) had snapped where the tensioner piston met the guide...

My car has only done 166,000k's all genuine, and this shows as the head and block are both in great nick, only changing the gaskit because it was leaking small amounts of coolant on the drivers side.

My question is, is this common? I figured replacing it before i put the head back on is the best way to go, i have a feeling that the bloody tensioner was tensioning to much and the chain wore a week spot, which is what looks like has happened.

Can i get chain guide kits that have all the gaskits and everything i need in them? Obviously I need a harmonic balancer puller, is there anything else (special tool wise) that I need?

Cheers
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:45 pm 
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Fairly common.

You need to drop the front of the sump (loosen all bolts)
And remove the timing cover, get the whole kit for around $80 (guides and gaskets)

Make sure you use an AU gasket and bolts when you refit the head!

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:36 pm 
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So it's fairly common for the metal tensioner guide to snap, not the best design then,

Yeah I have after market permaseal bolts, which look to be the same spec as AU they definitely look like serious kit, got the AU gaskit too.

Now I've read somewhere that you don't have to drop the sump if you have the head off.. this true?
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:11 pm 
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DaPlaya wrote:
So it's fairly common for the metal tensioner guide to snap, not the best design then,

Yeah I have after market permaseal bolts, which look to be the same spec as AU they definitely look like serious kit, got the AU gaskit too.

Now I've read somewhere that you don't have to drop the sump if you have the head off.. this true?
I think the sump does have to drop even with the head off. I can't remember why but I had to.

 

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Last edited by twase on Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:44 pm 
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because its on dowels, its much easier to loosen the sump and get it on easier you'll benefit on sealant join quality.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:13 pm 
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yeah on my eb it went at 250k which when it dropped it jammed the chainlots damage, and on my el it went at 155k but was all goood new chain new guides
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:50 pm 
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Hey you have to drop the sump. Same thing happen to me.
Basicly, you need to undo the alternator, radiator (to fix harmonic balancer) water pump.

Just remember where all the bolts go. The metal guide costs $31.42 ( part number is FO- EA 6A292 A) and the right hand side plastic guide costs $13. I had to drop the sump to take the timing cover off. I couldnt get the bottom of the timing cover out. (yes i did undo the sump bolts that went into the timing cover). I took out the water pump but cant remember if it has to be taken out. If you do, buy a new o ring which is green in colour which goes on the back of the water pump. Think it cost $2 for the o ring.

I didnt buy the timing chain kit so im not sure what it includes. But i also got the 2 timing cover gaskets. To help me get them on, i put a light coat of oil on the gasket to stick the the block.

Thats all i can remember at this stage.
Just ask if u got any more questions. As i done this about 1 1/2 weeks ago.

Good luck.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:02 pm 
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Thanks guys helping a lot.

Pretty sure the water pump can stay where it is, as it's beside the timing cover.

Ok so sump has to be lowered. cool..

thanks for the tip for the gaskit, should come in real handy for other areas too.

now, do you think i should change the chain? it looks in perfect order and so does the OH Cam sprocket.

cheers
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:54 pm 
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Chains should outlast the car,
However for around 80-100 you can buy a new chain, I did (had no choice).
whilst your there, you may as well!

Make sure the rollers aren't damaged and the links (both can run on the tensioner)

Sprockets are usually fine.

I recall the Nissan L20B chain is the same as our mighty 6.
correct me if I am wrong.

And remember anything made in Germany ist gut!

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:55 pm 
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personally i would change the chain, but if it looks good and if ya cant be bothered rooting around with the timing leave it, maybe take a close picture and post it to show the quality
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Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:05 am 
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ive done about 50 000kms on my car since i got it nearly 2 years ago. Car has 540 000kms on it. I left the chain on. The guides were worn but the chain looked good. After all, the chain is metal.
But it comes down how far are you willing to go. It would be a pain in the a** to change i think. But at least you know it wont break down the track.
Its up to u

 

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