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| twr7cx |
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Was talking to a bloke whose palyed with a few falcons today about the timing chain tensioner troubles I've been having, and he said they need to be primed whenyou refit them as they operate on the oil pressure and if you don't prime them they get air gaps (like not bleeding your brakes), he said jam her up with vasoline as it is petrolium based and so won't hurt your oil or anything (and flush out your oil after around 200-500kms). Anyone heard of this before? I'm keen to give it a go as I'm getting desperate now!
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| Slick |
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I had a ultercation with with one of the forum member about that not so long ago. re: priming is insurance against failure.
aways "prime the oil pump" first before starting up after a rebuilt
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| twr7cx |
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Well I tried it, and it's different. Now it's quiet when it revs over 2,000rpm, but noisey at idle. When before it was quiet at idle and noisey when you rev it. Queer as.
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| fairmax |
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i think another way is to squish it together in a vice and then drop in into a bucket or bowl or something of oil so that when it springs out its sucks oil in. i think thats another way of doing it im not to sure.
_________________ ROTOR is ROTOR spelt backwards!!! |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Slick wrote: I had a ultercation with with one of the forum member about that not so long ago. re: priming is insurance against failure.
aways "prime the oil pump" first before starting up after a rebuilt considering we are talking about hte chain tensioner here, its hardly relivent what was done with his oil pump when the engine was built. twr7cx what exactly did you change?? |
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| twr7cx |
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I changed the head and cam shaft (removed stock head and Wade 1604 and changed Tickyhead with double crow valve springs and 1636).
also removed the old tensioner when doing this to find it was broken on the cam sleeve, so replaced it and can't get the chain tense enough, so it's slapping/knocking a bit on the passenger side guide as a result (but using a screw driver to help the tensioner stops this so the tensioner isn't pushing it hard enough). My nexty step is to replace the chain i guess, |
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| mreb |
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i changed mine when i did a rebuild i just put it in and thats it did nothing to it and it was perfect from the firdt startup.
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| Slick |
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tickford_6 wrote: Slick wrote: I had a ultercation with with one of the forum member about that not so long ago. re: priming is insurance against failure. aways "prime the oil pump" first before starting up after a rebuilt considering we are talking about hte chain tensioner here, its hardly relivent what was done with his oil pump when the engine was built. twr7cx what exactly did you change?? 
the last thing I wanna do right now is expose people true colours by pressing the right buttons. 
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Slick wrote: tickford_6 wrote: Slick wrote: I had a ultercation with with one of the forum member about that not so long ago. re: priming is insurance against failure. aways "prime the oil pump" first before starting up after a rebuilt considering we are talking about hte chain tensioner here, its hardly relivent what was done with his oil pump when the engine was built. twr7cx what exactly did you change?? the last thing I wanna do right now is expose people true colours by pressing the right buttons. what ever dude. your only exposeing your own true colours by pruposly trying to start a s**t fight if you think i'm going to get into a 5 page fight your wrong. twr7cx if i can come up with anything that might help i'll pm you |
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| Waggin |
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if we're talking about the timing chain tensioner, I was under the impression it used a spring and ratchet.. nothing to do with oil or oil pressure.
It needs to be pre-tensioned, and released when being fitted.. if this isnt done correctly, you simply wont have proper chain tension, which leads to that ugly chain slapping noise at idle-1500rpm
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| Disco Frank |
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Waggin wrote: if we're talking about the timing chain tensioner, I was under the impression it used a spring and ratchet.. nothing to do with oil or oil pressure.
It needs to be pre-tensioned, and released when being fitted.. if this isnt done correctly, you simply wont have proper chain tension, which leads to that ugly chain slapping noise at idle-1500rpm yer my thoughts too never ever heard of the chain being tensioned by oil pressure....
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| Slick |
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tickford_6 wrote: Slick wrote: tickford_6 wrote: Slick wrote: I had a ultercation with with one of the forum member about that not so long ago. re: priming is insurance against failure. aways "prime the oil pump" first before starting up after a rebuilt considering we are talking about hte chain tensioner here, its hardly relivent what was done with his oil pump when the engine was built. twr7cx what exactly did you change?? the last thing I wanna do right now is expose people true colours by pressing the right buttons. what ever dude. your only exposeing your own true colours by pruposly trying to start a s**t fight if you think i'm going to get into a 5 page fight your wrong. thats cool man. back to the topic! never heard of priming the timing tensioner before. have you checked the regulator valve?. don't know if its related
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| joolz |
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Yeah its spring loaded and should be compressed when chain is fitted then depressed with a small allen key. There is a tool to remove the outer lock nut. I used one when i did my head last year.
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| msman |
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giving you the benefit of doing it right considering you have the ford repair manual and proper tool.
are you sure the new tensioner isn't just a dud? is it genuine or aftermarket? get one from a wrecker to just give it a try.
_________________ why do u write in here. |
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| twr7cx |
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It's an aftermarket (Nason brand) tensioner. Very sure it ain't a dud (as compared it to the previous tensioner and there identical in every way). None of the wreckers here have any Falcon's with the engines still in them (actually any Falcons newer than EA are bloody hard to find being wrecked here). Yes, have been using Genuine Ford repair manual and the tool.
Were fitting it right, but it just doesn't seem to be able to push the chain enough - hence why thinking the chain is streched. We managed to fit it once and get it to stop knocking, but it made the chain super tight! Absolutely no movement at all (arm79 said should have 1 -2 mm when you push the chain with like a screwdriver). We did this buy assembling it all in uncompressed which isn't right at all and couldn't even wind the retainer in half the way! |
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