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Timing Chain Tensioner 

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:32 pm 
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ok, just shone a torch inside the retainer and drew a pic what i see lol!!

In the middle is the allen key hole, but concerns me is the left side which looks like 2 snapped pieces of spring or something?

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:57 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
ok, just shone a torch inside the retainer and drew a pic what i see lol!!

In the middle is the allen key hole, but concerns me is the left side which looks like 2 snapped pieces of spring or something?

Image


Nah that looks normal to me. The centre sort of rectangular piece is the small bit I was talking about that sits in the sleeve, which is the round outer bit with the angled piece of metal thing.

looks similar to (>[+]<)...+ being the allen key...yey or ney?

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:19 pm 
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Pull the whole thing out.

Remove the retainer
Get a piece of wire bend a hook on it, get some good pliers, and pull it out.

= no tension on chain.

Unless the piston is fouling.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:53 pm 
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when you push the tube with the allen key the tube must push on the out side edge of the tensioner like the pic below .

the red circle represents where the tube should push.

when i first tried to re-set mine my tube was 2 narrow and was just pushing on the spring retainer. i could feel it go in and turn and lock but it wasnt pushing on the tensioner..

 

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:28 pm 
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If the piston is fouling, you will need carby spray/cleaner to free it up.
You should be able to use a magnet to get the piston out, thats what I use.
Use the carby spray in the hole after you get the piston out to clean it.
Don't worry about it diluting the oil, it will boil off very quickly.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:06 pm 
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thanks again everyone.

i lost patience with it shortly after i posted here and just removed the cam gear, took me 15 minutes how to work out how to get it off the chain, had to slip it onto 1 set of teeth then the other...... does that sound right (ie: tension was off properly?)

Resetting the tension felt just as dodgy..... turned the tensioner anti-clockwise whilst pushing around the 'allen key hole' and it clicked back but the chain looked to have a little slack when i turned the crank by hand back & forth.... or is that normal?

And above all when i left the driveway, there was a decent puddle of oil under the car, but when started the car back up to check, there were no more leaks? None of the power steering brackets bolts had any sealant on them so thats how i refitted them.... do any of the bolts run into any oil galleries?
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:55 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
thanks again everyone.

i lost patience with it shortly after i posted here and just removed the cam gear, took me 15 minutes how to work out how to get it off the chain, had to slip it onto 1 set of teeth then the other...... does that sound right (ie: tension was off properly?)

Resetting the tension felt just as dodgy..... turned the tensioner anti-clockwise whilst pushing around the 'allen key hole' and it clicked back but the chain looked to have a little slack when i turned the crank by hand back & forth.... or is that normal?

And above all when i left the driveway, there was a decent puddle of oil under the car, but when started the car back up to check, there were no more leaks? None of the power steering brackets bolts had any sealant on them so thats how i refitted them.... do any of the bolts run into any oil galleries?



Why didn't you take the whole thing out???? Its easier that way.
Oh well, your bad, eh??

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:02 pm 
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i wasnt sure about having it in pieces and trying to line up the end bit to sit on the guide properly :oops:

HOPEFULLY..... everything is fine, i advanced the cam timing nearly 2 degees and the car feels heaps better. (it was 5mm above the head before)

Im guessing the oil leak was from the bracket bolt holes whilst cranking the car over to check everything.
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:27 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
i wasnt sure about having it in pieces and trying to line up the end bit to sit on the guide properly :oops:

HOPEFULLY..... everything is fine, i advanced the cam timing nearly 2 degees and the car feels heaps better. (it was 5mm above the head before)

Im guessing the oil leak was from the bracket bolt holes whilst cranking the car over to check everything.


Advancing the cam timing gives it more torque down low. Better launches.
Is the cam, an aftermaket one,???? or the original one.???
Did you degree the cam ( if it was aftermarket cam)????????

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:43 pm 
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Wade 1636 cam.

Ok, couple weeks ago i had a mechanic fit a new timing kit, chain guides etc.

When i got the car back, it felt a little underpowered so i pulled off the rocker cover and the cam gear mark was dead inline with the head whilst balancer mark was at TDC. Looked ok i thought.

So i measured piston no.1 TDC and found the balancer mark was not showing 'true' TDC, so i turned the crank to the new TDC mark i made on the balancer and the cam gear mark was 5mm above the head. I dont know why, but new chain, skimmed head, AU headgasket might have all contributed to it.???

Moving the cam timing forward a tooth would put the mark 5mm BELOW the head so i felt the only option was to fit a vernier gear and now the cam gear mark sits 2mm above the head.
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:17 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
Wade 1636 cam.

Ok, couple weeks ago i had a mechanic fit a new timing kit, chain guides etc.

When i got the car back, it felt a little underpowered so i pulled off the rocker cover and the cam gear mark was dead inline with the head whilst balancer mark was at TDC. Looked ok i thought.

So i measured piston no.1 TDC and found the balancer mark was not showing 'true' TDC, so i turned the crank to the new TDC mark i made on the balancer and the cam gear mark was 5mm above the head. I dont know why, but new chain, skimmed head, AU headgasket might have all contributed to it.???

Moving the cam timing forward a tooth would put the mark 5mm BELOW the head so i felt the only option was to fit a vernier gear and now the cam gear mark sits 2mm above the head.


Like I said, did you degree the cam.???? I ask this, coz sometimes when grinding a cam, they can alter the centre line/grind of the cam. I just recently fitted a cam to a mates 351C. I can't remember the brand of it now, might have been a Crane. Anyway, there was no info on where the grind was, unlike Crow, they tell you where the grind is, ie: grind on cam is 2 dgs advanced or 4 dgs retarded, etc).
So, when I degreed the cam, having it set at std timimng, it turned out to be 1 dgs retarded, so then reset the timing again, and now its 3 dgs advanced.
That is why you check cams.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:31 pm 
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No i didnt degree the cam.

However if a timing guide or aux shaft breaks from my incompitence, i will burn this f**k car
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:53 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
No i didnt degree the cam.

However if a timing guide or aux shaft breaks from my incompitence, i will burn this f**k car


Patience, knowledge, compitence, confidence are needed to do this stuff day in, day out.
How does the tension feel on the timing chain???
Any rattling on start up, cold, first thing in the morning????

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:08 am 
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FordFairmont wrote:
No i didnt degree the cam.

However if a timing guide or aux shaft breaks from my incompitence, i will burn this f**k car


dont worrie you can still put it down to experience.
and next time (if theres a next time lol) you will be able to do it with ease.

and you will know all about the things that can go wrong!

good luck with it
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:49 pm 
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Ok more to add.....

This morning on a cold start i started the car, and there is a slight tap, kinda like chain slap, and some noise can be heard when warmed up.

When driving through the main street at the shops, a 'fluttering' sound can be heard , noise bouncing of the buildings.

So i pulled the rocker cover off, and checked the tension of the chain. When you turn the crank by hand clockwise, it feels pretty tight, you cant budge the cahin on the tensioner side, and on the other side where the chain leaves the cam gear theres about 3mm of play.

But when you turn the crank anti-clockwise theres a fair bit of play, and you can almost push the chain back a tooth if you tried hard enough.

So whats the go? The tension feels good when its turning the right way, but turned backwards and there is slack....
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