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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:10 pm 
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:48 pm 
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Get into the dashboard diagnostic mode and get the actual temp readings mate. Talking about M, R etc a little difficult, lol.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Temp. a bit high on the dial.
Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:05 pm 
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blackjack_original wrote:
EDIT: also forgot to mention. basically if i swithc the car off and the temp was on "AL" and i switch it back on a few minuttes later it gots up almost as far as "O" and than creeps down. so if it goes to "RM" wha the hell will it go upto when i switch it off.


This is normal. The cooling system pressurises the coolant to prevent it boiling and thus improving the overall efficiency of the system. Cutting the engine (and thus the water pump) kills the pressure allowing the coolant to expand and heat up much further than it was able to under pressure leading to this exact situation.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:30 pm 
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Using the air con, warms the engine up, not cools it down. Unless my car is a freak.


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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:41 pm 
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It cools the cabin though which is what I suspect blackjack_original meant ;)

A side effect of that though is that it does cause the engine to warm up more.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:48 pm 
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 8:28 pm 
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if youve been giving the car a right royal flogging its a good idea to let it idle for a few mins to let its cool down abit.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 8:45 pm 
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blackjack_original wrote:
Ok, so heating up when off is normal, i suspected as much, but is it actually detramental to the engine. I mean if it gets pretty hot while runnning and i switch it off and it gets even hotter, is it gonna warp my head. or should i not worry about it. i'll see the actual temp. reading off diagnostics when it gets that hot again.


It should be fine so long as you let it cool down naturally (ie, slowly), you would only risk damaging the head if you subjected it to some kind of sharp temperature drop like throwing cold water over it or something. However, letting it idle a bit before switching it off if it's been running fairly warm isn't a bad idea either as it would allow the system to stabilise a bit before you release the pressure.

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Also, when i said the car gets cooler, i meant the engine. In 3 of my cars, switching on the AC causes the temp to drop slightly. For example today in the EF, it was on "MA" and when i switched the ac on it droped to "AL"


If I were to guess, I'd say that this was because the engine is making allowances for the aircon, perhaps a higher idle when the aircon is turned on so as to increase the coolant flow to offset the affect of the additional load from the A/C compressor.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:07 pm 
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i think you need to go into diagnosis also as im confuses by all this "ma" and "al" talk. since i drive and ED and normal temp for me is "or"

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:18 pm 
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there could also be a lot of leaves and other junk stuck inbetween the A/C condenser and the radiator it block the air flow a bit i found
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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:47 pm 
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my eb also suffers badly from heat soak (i believe thats what it is called).
After driving long distances, i always let it idle for a minute or so before shutting it down. If i don't, when i restart it, the guage is almost up to the red.
Letting it cool down naturally from that temp (leaving it overnight) is fine because it cools slowly. But imho, kicking it in the guts and watching that guage flash down from 4/5ths of the guage to 1/5 is just asking for a warped/cracked head.
Thats just my rantings, but it makes sense to my mind..

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:18 pm 
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Wouldnt worry abou it, mine does it, never had a problem.
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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:06 pm 
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It's all about expansion and contraction. As long as all the engine components are allowed to expand and contract at roughly the same rate then you should be fine. "Kicking it in the guts" - as you so eloquently put it - doesn't really subject the engine components to that great a thermal shock, nowhere near as great as say, splashing it with cold water (which wouldn't be so bad if you guarantee that every component got hit with roughly the same amount of water at roughly the same time, which you can't) in any case. The cooling system isn't instantaneous, it takes time to for the engine to heat up in response to cutting the pressure in the system and it takes time for it to cool down again when you start the motor again. That said though, it's probably still a good idea to take such precautions as letting the motor idle for a bit before switching it off when you've been working it particularly hard but in terms of engine lifespan it's probably not going to matter a great deal.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 12:48 am 
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might I add, that the EF-ELs onwards have a second thermo fan which is normally turned on while air con is on, hence this may be cause the engine to cool down more.


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Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 1:04 am 
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back to the original post though,
depending on if it's a once off or if it keeps happening, i would check your coolant levels and coolant quality (no oil in water or signs of it needing flushing) for a start (duh), check for obstructions to air flow through the radiator (leaves, grass, bugs etc) caught both against the A/C condenser and between the condenser and radiator.
If these are all fine, then go ahead with replacing the thermostat. If you haven't done it lately, then drain the coolant and flush out the radiator and engine block with tap pressure water put it all back together and see if that makes a diference.

 

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