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| peetys here |
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hi all!!
i would say most of you guys with lowered vehicles have had this problem at some stage but how do you fix it. problem is this! i own an au with the full body kit including side skirts ! being that there is only about 12 cm of room between the skirt and the ground i went and purchased a lovely aluminium trolley jack wich when lowered is only 95mm high! my problem is to jack the car up you cant use the standard jack up point that your scissor lift jack uses as you will buckle it all up!(or am i wrong) i am led to believe that i have to push the trolley jack in under the sides of the car to the chassi rails but as you push the trolley jack in the height at the back of the jack increases to the point were the jack is bang up under the side skirts how do you raise a lowered vehicle off the ground with a trolley jack........... pete. Last edited by peetys here on Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:07 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| TROYMAN |
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i usualy drive the front of mine onto 2 spare pavers or 4"x2" thick lengths of timber then i can get the trolley jack under the k frame to jack it up..
i dont jack mine from the front chassis rail. |
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| jonathon |
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my brother drives up on to 2 sleepers and then jacks hi hx up via the k frame
_________________ Owning 1 of 84,847 ebII. |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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my NF is only 103MM from the ground and no normal jack fits under it and my rims being simmons i dont want to drive onto blocks etc as i want them as good as possible for as long as possible so i use the standard jack ford give u to lift the car up enough to get a proper jack under it simple and easy
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| peetys here |
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| phongus |
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I used to run up on planks of wood. That gave me a clearance of about 1cm. Pumping the trolley jack becomes a little difficult when you jack the front of the car via the K-frame since the handle tends to bash the bumper on the up stroke. I have never jacked the car up from side before come to think of it...
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| phatba |
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i put the trolley jack in from the side between the rear of the front tire and the side skirt. line it up under the chassis rail and angle it so the handle pokes out just behind the tyre.
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| cjh |
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Can do it in 2 stages. Use the original sissor jack at the usual jacking point, then used the trolley jack under the K frame once you have the room.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| little red wagon |
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If its an AU, dont jack it up under the K frame/crossmember as the alloy ones can break (so I've been told) I've trolley jacked my BA and my EF from the original jacking points on the sill panel without damage.
I have also had success jacking cars from the reinforcing at the front of the floor that crosses between the sill and rail. |
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| TimmyA |
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As above... On the ED i jack from the front under the k frame, from the sides under the chassis rails and the rear under the diff... Stands always go under the diff axles tubes and/or the braces mentioned above that run from the chassis rails to sills at the front...
We bought the old man this jack: http://www.vektools.com.au/profile-floo ... -6382.html His old one wont even go under his std height commodore... This is longer and stays lower for longer... It meets all the aussie stds for jacks... There is one other that is better (not sure who is was made by now) and I found it on the japanese car forums... It only meets the yank stds and not ours (theirs is something like it must safely hold twice its rated capacity ours is three times or something similar)... This jack has been great... Downfalls is it doesn't go up as high as most trolley jacks (maybe a 100mm lower) its longer and harder to manoeuvre around the tight spots on the shed and not sure I'm overly fond on the silly handle design... And its not real cheap on top of that... The one I found in the states was dearer by the time you had to freight something that heavy... There was another version of the above jack that went higher, but it was like twice the price...  Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| peetys here |
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yeah that trolley jack is a weird looking thing isnt it!!!
thanks to everyone for there responses to my questions. i have some more questions for you guys now! as i am replacing my front brake rotors in my au from my s**t original warped ford rotors to dba slotted's! do i" have" to replace my bearings aswell! or can i get away without touching the bearings.(this would free up $ for better rotors) it would be obviously much quicker and easier if i leave these bearings alone as there is no movement or noise coming from the wheels. and i have found out that there is standard dba slotted's and 4000 series slotted's does anyone know the difference in the two. and lastly i have used the search feature to see what is a really good pad to use on these rotors but unfortunately there is a s**t load of different answers!!! i am thinking ebc green brake pads! this will be the first time that i have done anything mechanical to my car so i want to get it right the first time!(if i make a mistake it will ruin my self esteem. please help. pete... 
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| TimmyA |
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bearings will be fine to re-use... From memory the rotors come with an outer race pressed into them... If they don't, you may have trouble getting the race out of the old rotors, esp if you don't have a press... If there is no outer race in them it may be best to get new bearings and press the new outer race in...
Best to look at their website for the differences in the series of rotors... I thought they were std, slotted, slotted & cross drill and then the extremes or whatever they are were slotted and crossed drilled 3 part ones... But they are only made for some models and not all like the lower series rotors... Remember when you change the rotors there is a bit of a process to doing the hubs back up... You have to over tighten them to ensure the bearings are properly seated in the outer race and then back them off a bit... http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/t ... tb-06.html You will also need the seals for the back... Fairly cheap from Ford from memory and these tap in with a hammer and pin punch, make sure they are seated properly or dirt will get in... You will also need new split pins because they are hardened I will you they just snap when you go to straighten them to remove them... Other than those pointers... Good luck with the new venture...  Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| TimmyA |
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oh and in regards to pads, I always use Bendix Ultimates and they have changed them recently and included this "Stealth" things and supposed to be squeal free I think... Funny looking pad they are...
You will always require gracious amounts of the wheel grease... Unsure whether its anything special or not... But good luck trying not to get it everywhere too... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| peetys here |
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timmytimtim wrote: oh and in regards to pads, I always use Bendix Ultimates and they have changed them recently and included this "Stealth" things and supposed to be squeal free I think... Funny looking pad they are... You will always require gracious amounts of the wheel grease... Unsure whether its anything special or not... But good luck trying not to get it everywhere too... Cheers, Tim oh wonderful!! im going to buy the gregorys manual tommorrow and will read it from front to back! ill just buy a set of washing up gloves and be very careful!  i just hope that if i do have a problem with my install that there is someone with a bit of knowledge online that can give some advice. nice to hear from you again timmy tim tim. pete.
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| TimmyA |
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no worries at all buddy... Has been a while since I did mine now... But I'm sure if you ask something specific it may jog the old memory...
Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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