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Using a Timing Light 

 

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 Post subject: Using a Timing Light
Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:49 pm 
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Hi, noob question but i bought a cheap $20 timing light today to check my EF's 6cyl timing and i have no fukin idea what im looking at.

For starters, i joined the correct pins under the dash to try put it in test mode, and instead of revving high then settling, all it does is die a little then settle.

secondly once the car is running, im pointing the timing light (is flashing correctly) at the timing notch on the timing cover and everywhere on the pulley but i cant see the mark on the pulley, even after going over it with chalk

Cant be that bloody hard can it?
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:29 pm 
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if you got the red light type it can be hard to see unless its dark, xenon is a bright white light that can be seen in daylight ..but costs more.
if you have the xenon type, maybe try using a liquid paper pen?

when i start the ea in diagnostic mode the idle is low for a few seconds then high for a few seconds and levels out into a normal idle, thats when its time to check.
ef/el could be different.

 

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Last edited by Redford on Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:46 pm 
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Ok i tightened the connection on the pins and now the idle goes up & down but keeps doing it and wont settle.

I also jammed a piece of paper in the pully mark to see it better.

Now i think i can see the pully mark, but its not white like i thought it'd be, but a strong red strip...... is that right? (timing light is red)

If it is the pulley mark then its about 3cm before the notch in the crankcase when the light is lit.

How can the timing be out if the cam gear mark and crank pully mark and lined up properly?

The car runs real rough and at 1600rpms it pops and f@rt.
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:47 pm 
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As far as i am aware, (which i am sure is correct) the EF/EL does not have adjustable timing as it is all handled by the computer due to no dissy so u cant advance or retard the timing that way.

Please correct me if i am wrong

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:53 pm 
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EF's are coil pack
EL's are dizzy

EL you can just rotate dizzy to change timing
EF dont think u can adjust easily as it is controlled by ECU as comhelp said
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:58 pm 
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cam timing is different, was the cam alignment rechecked after you tensioned the chain?
im guessing you have recently done headwork, cos its the only way it can be out.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:12 pm 
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If you give us some more info then we might be able to help you out.

I.e. what work have you done to the car? when did it start with this problem?

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:21 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
How can the timing be out if the cam gear mark and crank pully mark and lined up properly?

The car runs real rough and at 1600rpms it pops and f@rt.


sounds like cam timing not ignition. :s

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:25 pm 
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Whats the importance of putting it in diagnostic mode?

Can the timing light be used accurately when the car is idling normal?

I ask this because i dont think its going into the test mode properly.... it keeps dying and reving up and wont stop... when it dies the pully mark is 3cm from the timing cover notch, but when it revs up the pulley mark moves closer within 1cm from the notch

Im sick of f**k cars!!!!!
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:32 pm 
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yeah, cars can be frustrating, best to leave it for a while and come back to it if your getting stressed.

the reason for testing in diagnotic mode is so that once the computer has done all its self checks you are free to check the timing without interference from the ecu controling the timing. so you get an accurate view of the base timing.

i noticed from another thread you installed a timing kit, just wondering what was done?
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/cold-sta ... 59453.html

edit. idle must be smooth and steady when checking the timing, otherwise the timing mark will be all over the place.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:46 pm 
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new timing chain, tensioner, plastic guides were fitted.... and ive sworn its lost power....

so ive had the rocker cover on & off a few times trying to suss out the timing but the cam gear mark is inline with the head when the balancer mark lines up with the timing cover so it looks to be fine?

Is it possible for the mechanic to have put the balancer on wrong giving me false impression that its all lined up?
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 8:35 pm 
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its in the right position then and the crankshaft sprocket and balancer are both alligned with a keyway so its not possible to get it wrong.

if your sure its an ignition problem, it could even be something simple like 2 leads are pluged into the wrong cylinders. it happens.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 8:47 pm 
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thanks for your help, and i assume the cam only goes on one way onto the cam gear as well?

I bought a multimeter today, will test the leads 2moro..... what resistance am i measuring for?
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:08 pm 
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nah i ment the spark plug leads, just check the firing order is going to cylinders 1-6, they usualy have the cylinder number printed on each lead.

i was thinking, its possible to put the ignition timing out if the auxiliary shaft sprocket on the timing chain was out of alignment. both marks have to be directly aligned with the crank sprocket when the cam gear is in position.

on the ea to ed the auxiliary shaft is connected to the distributor.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:22 pm 
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ok, well the aux sproket is the only thing that i cant check unless i remove the timing cover.

So is the aux shaft give a signal to the coil pack or something? I thought the aux shaft did nothing? :oops:

i just checked the timing again at night and its defintely waaayy out. It has little moments where the motor revs up to stop dying (in diagnostic mode) and the pulley mark jumps in line but settles about 3cm behind the timing cover notch.

Im f**k furious, gonna go down to the mechanic who installed the timing kit 2moro morning and shove the timing gun up his a***
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