A stall converter would in effect make the auto act like it's lower geared so would be a help in the right direction for sure - but I'm afraid I have no idea just how MUCH difference it will make. The highest stall you could go to would be about 2500 because the Transmission ECU apparently has problems with anything higher - it sees too much slip and thinks there's something wrong and drops into limp home mode.

The shift kit makes the actual shifts quicker/harder - but doesn't change when the shifts happen or of course affect the basic gearing. I've got one of 9psiEB's kits and it makes the car a HEAP nicer to drive, but I wouldn't say it makes it quicker off the line.

Converting to MPEFI will vary in cost depending on how much the gear costs - there have been posts by people who got all the bits together for as little as $150!! You need to check carefully into what the go is with the ECU too.

On the general idea of converting CFI to MPEFI, I had a Ford dealer service mechanic once tell me that they used to get some MPEFI cars that were slugs - even tho they could never find anything which might be causing it - and on the other hand they'd get some CFI cars that were at least as good as the best MPEFI they'd ever seen. The guys who have actually done that coversion will be able to give you proper info on what's involved and how much benefit it is.

That guy now runs his own performance shop BTW - so he wasn't in the same league as the 40 - something year old Holden mechanic who once told me that "them VL Turbos sure do go mate - took the Mrs and kids for a spin in one and the kids passed out in the back seat from the G-force!".

Hahahahahahahaah G-Force........did he say F18 hornet or VL turbo......

Well I think my car is not a slug at all, I bought it off a mechanic who is about 40 and one thing I was told by my uncle who also is a mechanic is "Every mechanic tries to have faster cars then other mechanics", maybe he is just bull sh itting me.

I think this car pulls a little bit now, and it sh its on any other 3.9 CFI engine I have ever driven in/against.

I'm a little worried to get a shift kit now because 'Greenmachine' said it will change gears a lot harder, Im worried now because anymore stress and I think it will blow (back diff) it makes a real clunk now when I back off the noisey pedal when pushed hard, also the gear box sounds like I am driving the Jetsons car....

A shift kits not going to help you get off the line any quicker, that's really the area you need to improve to beat the commies. Manual conversion, 3.45 diff, maybe a set of extractors or cam that specifically improve low down power. A wade cam will only set you back around the $250 mark with all the shims and blah blah (I know couse I've boguth all the stuff the other day - yet to put it int hough).

^^^
yep
and u will be much faster then alot of v6 and v8 commys. i know coz thats exactly what my car has had done to it!

cheap cheap cheap.

remember commys are like 150kgs + lighter then ur car with lower gearing. think about it.

Go and get 3.7 diff ratio installed and the commies will be crying.

\

The V6 Buick MTR fitted to the commodors has been around since 1974 and is a proven reliable mtr. Had GMH put the turbo version they had in the states in the aussie VN model with the lighter body ford might have done something to better the performance of the EA's then again with taxi's and company purchases fords thinking at the time was way of target for performance falcons.

By the way the 87 buick GNX was the quickest US production car in 1987.
Check this site out for performance stats

http://www.fast-autos.net/buick/buickgnx.html

ghiaman

What does it cost to do this 3.7 diff ratio?

And what does a manual conversion cost?

i have seen a manual conversion for an ea go for around $1200 fitted i think it was, not sure where.
as for the I6 vs V6, i just like the I6 for is better torque ouput, and it is much smoother and sometimes quieter too.

hey guys,

Ive got an AU XR6 5speed and it goes really well, actually runs a 15.2@89mph with only a pod filter in the airbox..
My mate had an ED which he converted to a manual, and genie extractors, lukey 2.5in system, and a KnN panel filter and he ran a
15.2@88mph, and before he changed to manual he was struggling to see
a 16.6 1/4...
the manual, and exhaust system made THAT much difference to his car

it went from me slaughtering him to sitting side by side.. and we havent had a V6 even come close to grabing us off the line.. even the factory supercharged V6 commies fall behind..

We also have a mate with a limited edition V8 215 fwkw clubby.. that cant get away from us.. hes infront but still nose to tail from 0 - 170km/h and hes spewing cause we only have 6's..

How much did the auto/manual conversion cost?

I am regretting getting an auto. Grrr.r

umm i think all up including his $600 clutch he spent around the $1400 mark..

And so will you're petrol money account.


Shift kit does NOTHING for take offs. It'll get you into 2nd 3rd quicker, so will help you 'win' by further, but the commies will still beat you off the mark.

If you wanna kill commies, go drag some Alloytec 6 pots. I have the 'pleasure' of driving one at work, and its soooo slow, I'd rather be driving the old Buick 6. Not even to it's first service (3,000K) and it's had a steering pump die.

You mean the new 190 kw ones dont you? Yes they are s hit house. The old XR whips every time. (well one out of one anyway)

I was talking the bog stock alloytecs, the 190's aren't much (any?) better. They've got no get-up-and-go until around 5K, then you're only 1K from redline.

yes ecotec engines suck. real bad.