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what could be causing this? (dyno run w/new cam) 

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:55 am 
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schnoods wrote:
I would be getting a diagnostic or some sort of tuning. The AFR's are all over the place and running rich. Was it smokey at all? It may be something simple like a oxy sensor. Looks like it was a bit over the place before as well.


hmmm yeah I did notice that, but no real visible smoke. I just assumed the factory computer ran things rich anyways, and figured the tuning was fairly healthy since 122 was a decent figure for a stock car w/ extractors.

fritzz the leads were apparently reasonably new (according to the guy i bought it off anyway), probably around 20'kkms'. plugs not sure but i'll replace them.

driving around tonight with 4 guys in the car you can definetly feel the flat spot. the plan so far to look at fixing it :

check ECU error codes
check base timing (have to buy a timing light)
replace plugs
possibly replace oxy sensor?
?????
get a wade regrind on my spare cam?

altho the car still gets reasonable fuel econ on the highway (8-9L/100) it chews it around the city (15+ ...) but i have been driving it hard lately.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:18 pm 
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Sorry mate, but I still sing shims. LOL
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Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:25 pm 
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hmmm but I tried it with 1.1mm more shims than this and it wouldn't even run properly because the valves were not closing properly :O

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:55 pm 
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Test the Ohm resistance of ur leads.. my guess there dieing nad check the plugs for sure
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Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:23 pm 
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what should the lead resistance be?

thanks :)

 

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 Post subject: cam
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:43 pm 
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this is also asumming that the engine condition in the begining is healthy due to the stock run that you are showing which is about right for a stocker with Inlet & exhaust mods, get them to give you another graph showing RPM & vacumm then overlay that with the stock run, at the time when it drops check the reading & compare them, we had one here & almost had showed the same curve as yours, sorry to say but in our case it was the cam, obviously make sure the cam is dialed in propley & also by playing with the dial you can change the cams curve.

Joe.
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 Post subject: Re: cam
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:48 pm 
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AUXR8 2 wrote:
t get them to give you another graph showing RPM & vacumm then overlay that with the stock run, at the time when it drops check the reading & compare them

Joe.


vacume....what vacume - its full throttle...cant think of where u would measure any vacume on a power run

 

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 Post subject: Re: cam
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:01 pm 
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vacume....what vacume - its full throttle...cant think of where u would measure any vacume on a power run[/quote]
try it & see for your self........
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:24 pm 
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hmmm well I drove the car 400km home to my parents place last night and got the chance to examine the flat spot in higher gears... its pretty terrible in 3rd and 4th... basically crappy acceleration between 3000 and 4000 rpm which is right where you want it really :/

at the moment I am thinking it might be easier to just get another regrind on my spare cam and see if that makes a difference - it is relatively cheap (~120 ish?) compared to going nuts and replacing leads (what, 80-100?), O2 sensor (60-80?) or more dyno time (100-200?), when all these things (leads, plugs, o sensor) were working fine before the cam swap.

on a side note, it appears the computer is really dumping fuel in during the flat spot. not a very scientific measure, but ~3000 rpm and flooring it in 3rd the l/100 hits something crazy like 80 then goes down when it gets to 4000 and the power picks up again.

on the bright side my rocker cover gasket replacement is not leaking at all :D heheh... I cant really do anything for the next week but if anyone has anymore ideas i would love to hear them. :D

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:06 pm 
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I don't know if this is going to be helpfull but I had a similar issue where there was a hole between 3000 and 4000 when using an AU Knock sensor. I changed back to the EF one and the problem disappeared.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:16 pm 
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I'd go possibly cam timing.

I'll scan and put up my dyno runs after spending 6 hours playing with my R6 on a dyno. Show you what kind of effect 1 or 2 degrees of bad timing can cause.

But even then, your original power graph doesnt look too healthy to me. Specially at the top end of things.

There is another member floating around here who put and R3 into his car and I think ran the same or slower at the track than with a stock cam. Very sluggish down low, but better from 3000ish-rpm onwards. And it worked better with a stock ECU, rather than an XR one.

Sometimes I tend to think the R3 cams were not a good design at all.
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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 8:47 pm 
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that would be cool arm79....(the dyno graphs) I do have an adjustable gear that I could use to adjust it.
some of my friends keep talking about "dialing in" the cam... can anyone tell me how this is done? I am 100% sure the cam timing is the same now as it was originally, at TDC the mark on the cog is at the same point as it was before etc...

what aspect of the graph are you referring to? the roughness or? I'm not sure if that was just that places dyno or what... but it does seem pretty rough doesn't it.

the af's are also not very steady, so maybe I'll pick up a replacement O2 sensor anyway... cant hurt I guess. its just such a huge drop in power :( and ONLY in the midrange - top end it picked up ~11 KW which isnt too bad really. if it picked up 11kw from 3k onwards I would be happy !!! :D
very weird... hmmm. maybe I should just put the stock one back in and convert it to lpg LOL. i am sure my wallet would thank me.

maybe the R3 is a bit too extreme for a stock head / ECU or something like that ? i dunno...

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 11:25 pm 
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twason wrote:
I don't know if this is going to be helpfull but I had a similar issue where there was a hole between 3000 and 4000 when using an AU Knock sensor. I changed back to the EF one and the problem disappeared.


yeah my money is on igntion timing....u could just unplug the knock sensor....dont know what will happen to the timing then but...

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 1:23 pm 
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where is the knock sensor on the i6 / EL ? are they very hard to replace? I was going to just disconnect it and see if that helped but if i understand correctly if the ECU sees it isn't there it runs a safe limp home timing map or something? anyway to trick it?

is there any way to see what the ECU is doing to the timing in real time?

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:18 pm 
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with the shims idea. do you put more in.
i have similar problem with my car since i put in the wade regrind..
i put 2 shims in both in and ex and had to replace lifters due to them being noisy. my car heaps more slugish down low and you can really feel it pick up about 3000rpm, wat thickness is too much with shims.

 

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