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what could be causing this? (dyno run w/new cam) 

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:40 pm 
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forsaken wrote:
where is the knock sensor on the i6 / EL ? are they very hard to replace? I was going to just disconnect it and see if that helped but if i understand correctly if the ECU sees it isn't there it runs a safe limp home timing map or something? anyway to trick it?

Unscrew it from the block and plug it back in.
Its located under the intake manifold around pot 4 and 5.

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:44 pm 
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shims should never be a problem if everything is checked properly when the cam is installed. i've done a heap of cam swaps and never had a shim problem.

your AFR is all over the place and is crazy rich. the thing is though, both afr graphs cross each other at the point where your problem is.

whats the ignition timming like at that point?

you can see the the switch point for the bbm, right at the 80KMH point. i don't beleive it a cam problem as both the graphs go crazy at eh same point, it's the cam bring the problem out more.

I'd say you car as some ignition system problems

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:50 pm 
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yeah it is crazy rich in places isn't it... so far I have bought a new O2 sensor from eBay, and i;ll get on checking the leads and getting a timing light to look at base timing... will be back in melbourne on monday so should be able to mess around with it a bit :D

the previous owner mentioned that at some stage previously the heater hoses under there ruptured and soaked some electronics, is there anything else that could have been damaged? but only start to cause problems with the new cam?

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:56 pm 
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With regards to the o2 sensor, while its a good idea to replace it, it will have no effect on the afr's in a dyno power run.

The o2 sensor is completely ignored on full throttle operation.
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Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 9:04 pm 
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forsaken wrote:
yeah it is crazy rich in places isn't it... so far I have bought a new O2 sensor from eBay, and i;ll get on checking the leads and getting a timing light to look at base timing... will be back in melbourne on monday so should be able to mess around with it a bit :D

the previous owner mentioned that at some stage previously the heater hoses under there ruptured and soaked some electronics, is there anything else that could have been damaged? but only start to cause problems with the new cam?



it's not uncommon these day for the module inside the dizzy to fail. it could be early stages of a complete failure. check it out, look for signs of corossion anf shaft play. I've seen the chopper wheel hit the sensor befor and while the engine did still run it wasn't healthy.

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:39 pm 
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heh I didn't really think of that FordFairmont, is it only used in closed loop mode, or in general running also just not WOT? it was fairly cheap anyway :)

tickford_6, do you rekon its easiest to take the dizzy out to check it out, or can it be done in-car? (just take the cap off and a general inspection?)
does the intake manifold need to be taken out to stuff with it?

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:07 am 
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forsaken wrote:
heh I didn't really think of that FordFairmont, is it only used in closed loop mode, or in general running also just not WOT? it was fairly cheap anyway :)

tickford_6, do you rekon its easiest to take the dizzy out to check it out, or can it be done in-car? (just take the cap off and a general inspection?)
does the intake manifold need to be taken out to stuff with it?



just some general checks with the cap off will give you an idea of condition.
but checking the output signal while running will tell you for sure.

Does the timing chain make any noise? is the tension good? are the guides still good?
it could be chain chatter messing with the dizzy.
but there was deffinatly a problem befor you put the cam in. look a the graph just after the BBM switch point you'll see both graphs go from a nice smooth curve to a ragged (for lack of a better word) curve,

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 8:32 pm 
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The dip at 100kmph is the dyno operator releasing the throttle because the dyno wasnt loaded up properly or the car jumped off the rollers. Your before run shows a smaller similar curve at 120kmph. This is highly likely the car bounced momentarily off the dyno. .I think you may have a flat spot because the bigger cam has allowed more air in and then dumping more fuel to compensate for it.I would seriously be thinking about a tune.

If there was something wrong with your engine at that speed then the air fuel ratios would have also drastically changed.It would have gone extremely rich or extremely lean at that point. Just my opinion from looking at your sheets. Go and try a different dyno

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:11 pm 
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well s**t happens i will be busy until next week now :| so wont be able to work much out until then.

i added some rough rpm's to the chart : |

i am pretty sure the chain/guides are ok, whats a worn chain sound like? rattly?

 

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:01 pm 
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well i put new o2 sensor in, didnt seem to make any difference as predicted !! oh well. today i unscrewed the knock sensor (omg... what a b**ch of a position???!!) and left it hanging so will see if that makes any difference...! but I doubt it.
I was going to have a look in the dizzy but i couldnt get my hand around the other side of it to unclip it, damn intake manifold.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:31 pm 
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I'm not having your problem, but I had to do a head gasket and while I had everything off the motor I decided to replace the leads etc. When I took the dissy cap off the center contact to the rotor was not even there and the motor still ran well. After replacing rotor.cap,leads etc the car had much more power and fuel consumption dropped.
As said before the cam will show up any problems much more than a standard one as everything haS TO BE SPOT ON WHEN THE ENGINE IS ASKED TO DEVELOPE MORE POWER. tHE IGNITION SYSTEM ESPECIALLY.
hOPE THIS HELPS IN SOME WAY.
sorry I caught the caps lock key by mistake

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:40 pm 
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hehe yeah thanks mate, the previous owner did mention the heater hoses blew up and soaked everything down there, the coil and leads look new, but i guess something else down there might have gotten soaked too much.

will get in there somehow and check out the distributor and get my multimeter onto testing some of the other sensors...

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:53 pm 
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hey guys, just an update... bought a new set of plugs and leads for it today, so will see if it makes a difference :D

so far:
new o2 sensor: no difference
take knock sensor out of block (still connected): no difference
now: plugs, leads, and check condition of dizzy cap&rotor

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 2:13 am 
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Hi mate, just letting you know I have had a small dip in power like yours around the same rpm. (Same cam) At first I thought it was my lpg messing up, but it also happens on petrol. It feels like the throttle has been lifted slightly then planted back down.

However I just done an auto to manual conversion and havent noticed it, but I am just to wrapped in the manual to notice anyway.

I would like to hear what is causing this, for your sake and mine :D
I might check my dizzy (I got new plugs and leads a 3 months ago) and see how (not if) rooted it is.
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Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 4:36 pm 
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forsaken wrote:
well i put new o2 sensor in, didnt seem to make any difference as predicted !! oh well. today i unscrewed the knock sensor (omg... what a b**ch of a position???!!) and left it hanging so will see if that makes any difference...! but I doubt it.
I was going to have a look in the dizzy but i couldnt get my hand around the other side of it to unclip it, damn intake manifold.


Not surprised - the O2 sensor doesn't do anything until the ECU is in closed loop mode - over 80kph and not at wide open throttle.
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