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What do i have to do to change oil pump in I6 ef 

 

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 Post subject: What do i have to do to change oil pump in I6 ef
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:11 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hey guys
i've had enought with this oil pressure problems so im buying a high volume oil pump so i ordered new one today and picking it up tomorrow
and installing it saturday
work open on saturday so i got all access to hoists, engine craines, jacks, stands everything.

Am i able to just undo the sump and slide it out???

or do i have to undo the engine mounts and jack/lift engine up and block up the mounts and lift car up in air and undo sump slide out???

also for the oil pump it easy to come out???
just 2 bolts?

anything i should look for?

also while im at it i wanna replace my oil pressure switch whats the easyest way to get to the switch?

cheers,
jason

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:15 pm 
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I take it you haven't done one before???
You need a way to hold the engine up, and drop down the the engine subframe. ( disconnect the steering shaft at the rack). There is enough room to get the sump out, and do the oil pump.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:27 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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not a sump in a ef ford. Done tones of them in the bloody rice burners. lol most of them the sump tiny lol

i didn't think you had to drop the subframe that sucks

when i get the sump off ill give it a good old degrease of the crank and engine internals then gurnny the degreser out....









LOL im f**k with you

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:43 pm 
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If you do that, you have to give it 2 oil changes.........when back together after degrease, run it hot for 1/2 hour @ 1,500rpm, then change the oil & filter. The next day, have a look at the oil cap for a whitish looking grime on it, to see how its going for ridding the water.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:57 am 
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yeah, i would assume it might be better to degrease it, then wipe down all the internals with a rag if u can be stuffed
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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 11:40 am 
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From memory, the rough order of things is to disconnect the steering rack (lines, pressure switch, intermediate steering arm), undo the top shocker tower bolts, take the engine weight off the mounts, unbolt the mounts and k-frame, pull the k-frame down and do your thing. Get the car up as high as you safely can as well - helps big time.


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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:25 pm 
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Here is a further tip:

Oil pressure problems can be due to a number of reasons. THOROGHLY clean the oil pick up screen. It may be blocked. Check the sump and oil for all traces of contaminants including silicone.

Unfortunately in cars that have suffered low oil pressure, often bearing damage is the result. Its then a chicken versus egg theory if there was excessive bearing clearance to begin with.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:08 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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yer i know what ganna hit me in a few months big ends and that

but thats fine i just don't want to rebuild the motor yet im buying up all the stuff now to carry out the full rebuild with all my aftermarket machining and gear.

like AU III crank and xr6 turbo rods shot pan
forged pistons hopefully if the motor holds out long enought or else they will be acl race series
debaiting on head right now proberly get xr one and get stainless over size valves and some good crowcam duel valve springs and valve locks and. new set of lifters and a good cam go go with the varable cam gear and new timming chain and plenty of other stuff.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:13 pm 
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stockstandard wrote:
From memory, the rough order of things is to disconnect the steering rack (lines, pressure switch, intermediate steering arm), undo the top shocker tower bolts, take the engine weight off the mounts, unbolt the mounts and k-frame, pull the k-frame down and do your thing. Get the car up as high as you safely can as well - helps big time.


Image


Ill keep that in mind but im ganna do it a different way found out that one of the mechanic at work was a FORD mechanic for 10 years so he worked on the 1990 to 2000 so he done all the sumps on ef and el's.
He said just undo the engine mount bolts and lift car up on hoist get gearbox stand and let the car down while the stand is under the bell housing of the box and it will lift the motor up high enough to get the sump out. And what make it better is he ganna be at work tomorrow just sitting around so i might get a hand from him :D YAY


I let ya guys know how it goes tomorrow and i only got 6 hours to do the job it that should be to to hard unless something goes wrong.
ill try getting some pic's the the job while im at it if i remember

Cheers,
Jason

 

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18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:26 pm 
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getting the sump out without lowering the k-frame - will be interested to hear how that goes...

The method I posted is right out the ford manual.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:29 pm 
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Just pull the I6 and install new pump attatched to 5.0L V8
Result is happiness.
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:01 pm 
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any tips for doing it on a ea? :cry:

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:16 pm 
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kiwiman wrote:
any tips for doing it on a ea? :cry:


its the same way

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:43 pm 
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thats wat i was gonna say 2 do

Xflow wrote:
stockstandard wrote:
From memory, the rough order of things is to disconnect the steering rack (lines, pressure switch, intermediate steering arm), undo the top shocker tower bolts, take the engine weight off the mounts, unbolt the mounts and k-frame, pull the k-frame down and do your thing. Get the car up as high as you safely can as well - helps big time.


Image


Ill keep that in mind but im ganna do it a different way found out that one of the mechanic at work was a FORD mechanic for 10 years so he worked on the 1990 to 2000 so he done all the sumps on ef and el's.
He said just undo the engine mount bolts and lift car up on hoist get gearbox stand and let the car down while the stand is under the bell housing of the box and it will lift the motor up high enough to get the sump out. And what make it better is he ganna be at work tomorrow just sitting around so i might get a hand from him :D YAY


I let ya guys know how it goes tomorrow and i only got 6 hours to do the job it that should be to to hard unless something goes wrong.
ill try getting some pic's the the job while im at it if i remember

Cheers,
Jason

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:38 pm 
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So how did this go?
Can it be done as described without removing the K-Frame?

 

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