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workshop manuals ??? 

 

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 Post subject: workshop manuals ???
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:37 pm 
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looking at doing a head gasket replacement in the next 2-3 weeks, and i was wondering what manual was the best to get to help me with the work. eg hayes, gregorys or any others that you know of.

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:59 pm 
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Evryone on here has different ideas. Some beleive Street Machine is the bible for everything automotive :shock: . I use a Max Ellerys but some other guys swear by the Gregorys manuals so really it's up to you. Buy whats available and within your price range. 8-)

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:02 pm 
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Depends what you want to do. Swapping a head gasket is pretty straight forward so any would do. I have a couple of haynes manuals but they skip over anything complicated (no information on how to rebuild gearboxes for example). The gregory's and max ellery books I have go into much more detail.

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:30 pm 
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the local sprint autos have max ellery in stock are thay any good for in detail work. and can any one tell me if its cheaper to get a head tested and re faced or to get a exchange head.

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:51 pm 
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Yeah as stockstandard said the Max Ellerys are pretty good.
It depends on what you want. An exchange head will cost more but will be fully recoed. A pressure tested and faced head will be exactly that: a pressure tested and faced head. No seats cut, no new or refaced valves, no welding of any corrosion and no cleaning. You get what you are prepared to pay for. 8-)

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:24 pm 
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If you have the time its usually best to take the head off and have a look at it. If the car has been looked after (used coolant instead of water) it will be in good condition and you can just reface it and put it back together (post some pics of the head up here for some advice if your not sure).

There are a few things you really should do that may not be mentioned in the books. Use an angle grinder to cut a slot up the side of one of the old head bolts and run it up and down each of the bolt holes in the block to clean all the old crap out. Use new head bolts, and when you do them up, put a few drops of engine oil on the threads and under the head of the bolt. This will make sure you get an accurate torque reading which is very important for these engines.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 5:51 pm 
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What about the Ford workshop books for EF/EL? How are those?

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:25 pm 
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mr_rx7_ wrote:
What about the Ford workshop books for EF/EL? How are those?


Expensive, but the difference between 'encyclopedia falconius' and the Max Ellery/Gregorys of the world is like night and day.

Although they might be slight overkill for a head gasket??

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:49 am 
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thanks for the advice guys. i'm going to pull the head the week after christmas so i'll post some pic's once i've done it. I got the max ellerys book it says to use loctite on the head bolts??? every one on here says to use oil what the???

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:49 am 
Stock as a Rock
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Age: 44

Posts: 119

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Ride: EF II wagon

Location: adelaide/salisbury north
SA, Australia

thanks for the advice guys. i'm going to pull the head the week after christmas so i'll post some pic's once i've done it. I got the max ellerys book it says to use loctite on the head bolts??? every one on here says to use oil what the???

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:59 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: XH B&S ute, Navara 4x4

Power: 202 rwkw

Location: Bordertown
SA, Australia

DON'T use loctite. Can C**k up your torque settings. Use oil but don't get any on the parting faces. 8-)

Besides, the head bolts on a 4l are a nightmare to get undone at the best of times, let alone if the got loctite on them :shock:

 

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You'll rope an ol' blue norther and milk it 'till it's dry

Bulldog the Diamantina pin its ears down flat

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