Alright awesome, he also mentioned a plug at the rear of the engine? Im unaware on what this is ?

...I'd assume he meant the rear welsh plug...no plugs at the back of the motor as far as I know.

agreed, rear welsh plug - this is the main one that causes grief if the engine's already installed. (All these welsh plugs are, if you didn't know, are a press in plug into the cooling system in case the water in the block ever freezes - they give room for water expansion to save the block cracking . They are often just mild steel and they can rust out - if they do they start seeping water and eventually leak. If its one in the side of the block you may or may not have enough room to change it with the motor installed, but if that back one goes you have no chance. You have to either yank the engine out to fix it

Change the Rear Main Oil Seal as well before you fit up the gearbox.

Thanks guys

I had a look on the passenger side of the engine, under the throttle body and noticed more welsh type plugs, are they welsh plugs? some are smaller than others. Is this where the oil seal is located?

There is also some sort of switch located in this area with a bit of oil around it

Where the crank exits at the rear of the engine.

Yep, there is a couple of larger plugs & a couple of small plugs there. The switch on the side of the block is the oil pressure switch, if it's got oil on it, might have leaked passed it's thread, thread tape will fix this, or might have come from up above, ie valve cover gaskit.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

All sound advice on welsh plugs and rear main seal.

If you get an EL motor

1) swap the dissy out for the cam sensor from the EF motor in the same hole. Take the rocker cover off both motors, rotate them so they are on TDC with no 1 intake and exhaust on the rock. There is a small hole on the EF cam sensor that you can put a small drill bit into to lock the cam sensor, then put it into the EL motor.
2) bolt in the crank angle sensor, it sits behind the harmonic balancer on the EF motor
3) use the EF harmonic balancer if it's OK (ie the rubber isn't in pieces and the seal surface doesn't have a big groove), or else replace. The crank angle sensor reads the teeth on the EF balancer and EL balancers don't have them!
4) replace front seal while balancer is off
5) use the EF intake manifold, to retain EF wiring on the EL motor, with EL XR6 fuel rail if you have a XR6 motor ( different regulator, or you could just use the XR6 reg in your rail)
6) Use the EF LHS engine mount (as it has a mounting spot for the coil pack)
7) pull off the old EL coil, mount a new EF coil pack to LHS engine mount
8) fit the new leads as it is easier on the ground
9) Check the oil pressure has the appropriate switch. Some models have a simple switch, others have a variable resistor to show oil pressure. Probably easier just to fit your EF one with fresh thread tape.
10) Remove flywheel / Flexplate and sandwich plate to expose rear welsh plug and replace.
11) Replace rear main seal while in here
12) Replace rest of welsh plugs
13) optional paint block gloss black or for sexiness swap 13 with 12 to show off the brass welsh plugs

and BAM, you now have an EF XR6 motor

P.S. hope i haven't scared you, it's really not that bad lol