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| aussiexh |
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Hey Guys,
Just thought I would see if I could get some advice regarding my Ford XH Ute. When the car starts it kicks over fine, then when I put it into drive it feels like it wants to conk-out, this goes away once the car is warm - almost feels like driving around in a carby'd car on a cold day when you first start it. Then when I am driving the car at crusing speed, it feels a little rough, like the engine is constantly changing rev's even when you are on a flat road and keeping the gas pedal steady. Then when you floor it up a hill the engine seems to struggle, then its ok, then it struggles, then it is ok - (this is happening quite quickly by the way). I just bought the thing and was going to do a light service on it, oil's, plugs and filters - but have a funny feeling this problem is something else than a set of new plugs. Anyone else have this same experience with an EL/EF/XH ford straight 6? Keen to hear some opinions. Cheers |
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| haydene |
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Is it on lpg or petrol?
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| 87SIlude |
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Is it leaking from the head?
could be the gasket. BUT...my car was running like a dog. Up hills it sorta skipped, felt like it was missing. Surged a bit. Started dodgy. What she needed was new xr6 spark plugs and some good leads, advanced the timing a fraction and damn. But that was deffinantly the leads in my situation. What do your leads and plugs look like. Any white marks on the leads, are they shiny when you look in the ends. Or they rusty. |
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| TIAMO |
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IAT Sensor?? CTS?
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| aussiexh |
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It is Petrol,
Haven't checked anything yet, but just bought the thing and have no idea of service history so was just going to change the oil and plugs, filters etc this weekend and give it a good going over then. Don't think it is the head gasket - but will certainly have a good look for leaking coolant. Quote: Up hills it sorta skipped, felt like it was missing. Surged a bit. Started dodgy. That sounds very similar to my symptoms mate! It certainly was worse when the car was cold - felt like it was going to stall, then when warm just feels like a car with a stuffed carby - old ZG Fairlane was like that and I rebuilt the carby and it ran perfectly................had a hunch it might be fuel deliverly related with this XH - maybe the injectors need a good clean as well? I will certainly start with the plugs and leads though as they are much easier to change than the injectors  !Also...........just reading through some other posts in order to see if someone had similar issues and came across folks who were struggling under load because of MAP issues, take off the air filter cover and throw in some electrical contact cleaner - might be worth a try I guess? |
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| gaf |
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Ditto here, so here's a bump.
XG xr6, changed plugs a couple of days ago, (oil and filters while I was there) still the same, did the leads tonight, so will check in the morning when I go to work and it's cold. (the above sorted my EL, when it was missing under load - but these are slightly different symptoms - which are the same as the OP) Any other suggestions? there's a few of us now!!!! Fuel Filter?? Coil ??? (XG with a dizzy) That sensor stuff someone else said??? |
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| TIAMO |
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Change the fuel filter anyway, but doubt it, coil symptoms would be likely to happen hot or cold, but still under load can f**k out. Try the CTS and IAT sensor, would affect cold behaviour.
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| 87SIlude |
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Gaf.
What plugs and leads did you use? When I first did my plugs I used the standard ones. But they couldn't handel the heat. So I put bthe xr ones in. Different heat rating. Made all the difference after the s**t leads were bined. |
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| gaf |
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since new leads...
Had a cold NZ start this morning, initial cough and low revs, but a much better drive, more power, and held the gears longer, and no more variation in revs on a constaint throttle. But still a small miss at idle, which is 800 rpm. Plugs I changed a couple of days ago, almost cried taking out NGK iridiums (But don't know how long they've been in) and put in a NGK's (Cann't remember code - but they were for a XR6 from the book. It the shop monkey required some explaining for this). But no difference in driving. Leads, swapped last night - which some bosch things off the rack. Results as above. Still not 100% perfect, but very drivable. What should I look for regards CTS or IAT sensor? excuse my ignorance but what are they, and I swap em at home? Always done my own mechanical stuff, but electric's and so on I get scared of!!! |
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| sooty72 |
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I always replace the cap and rotor, when replacing the leads in this sort of situation. If you don't know how old they are, bin them and start again. Always use Bosch cap and rotor. The rotor can wear and increase the gap, can cause a miss under load.
Replace the fuel filter, and see what sort of muck comes out of the old one. Check and adjust the timing, a little bit of advance can help, but dont make it ping. Lastly, put a tank full of GOOD fuel thru the thing, Shell 98, BP 98, that sort of thing. It does help, cleans out the s**t left behind by woollies crap fuel. Good luck. 
_________________ Yes, I own a Ute. No, I won't help you move! |
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| 87SIlude |
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Quick q.
How do you replace the fuel filter in a eb. Also gaf. Should replace the cap. My car alsohad a miss at idle. Bumped the timing up. Schweet as. |
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| aussiexh |
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How far should I advance the timing? to what degree?
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| gaf |
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Hey Lads thought I'ld hit this thread once more.
Have since replaced Cap and Rotor (since leads, plugs, with the oil and filter) A bit better, but still misses, more noticable when cold. Start up, engage D, revs drop away and can stall. Rev come up to normal, but fluctuate down. At cruising, can fluctuate also. So whats next on the replacement list ????? |
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| 87SIlude |
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Well. Next you could clean your throttle body, ics, air filter, should stop the hunting/ fluctuation.
Bump up the idle a tiny bit so she dosnt stall when you put in in drive. and that's about all I can think of. |
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| gaf |
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No worries, air filter done, will clean throttle body tomorrow, but whats a ics? and how do I clean it??
Cheers for all the answers lads |
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