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| braidy |
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Any question relating to audio and in car lighting, ask away.
_________________ RIP Chelsea |
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| twr7cx |
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Capacitators wiring. Positive lead from battery to pos on cap, then from pos of cap to amp. Neg lead from amp to neg on cap, then from neg of cap grounded to the chasis? Is that right? Eyeing off installing an Aerpro unit in my boot not because it's needed, but I'd like to have the digital voltmeter that'ss built in showing.
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| braidy |
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That's slighty wrong. Wire both positive from the amp and and 12v to the positive terminal of the cap, neg from the amp to ground, as well as the cap. They can go to the same ground, but not in series with the cap, therefore, not to the actual cap terminal.
But don't forget to charge the cap first before connecting straight to 12v. Use a 1k ohm resistor inline with the positive cap terminal and 12v positive. Use a multimeter or voltmeter to check until it reaches 12v, then connect up as per normal. Try and connect it as close to the amp as possible, as to show a correct reading, free of voltage drop due to lengthy cable. Meaning, don't run it to the dash or something like that if you want the most accurate reading.
_________________ RIP Chelsea |
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| data_mine |
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How do you get speaker cable (16GA) through to the front doors on a BA/BF?
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Private9 |
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Ok, just had my EF sedan converted to gas so not much room for an install.
Anyhow I've got 2 x 12's which I'll just be sitting in the boot (I need to be able to quickly pull the box out quite often) and have 2 amps to run the system. I had planned to fit the amps under the front seats, however 1 of them will not go under the seat. Next plan was on the back of the back seats, between the gas tank and the back seat, however the larger amp just touches the gas tank right at the top. - So that place is out as well for the larger amp! Bearing in mind I need to keep whats left of my boot usable, where the hell can I put this bloody amp?! Next question is, the amp in question is an old school Kicker ZR360. This has a plug in crossover module, however as I bought the amp secondhand, I have no idea how to check the crossover frequency. Any ideas? |
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| braidy |
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data_mine wrote: How do you get speaker cable (16GA) through to the front doors on a BA/BF?
Simple. Don't bother. I assume you're changing the stock speakers for aftermarket ones? The stock cabling is plenty enough. a*** cable is all wank. If they're just your average 4 inch or 6 inch or whatever, the stock cable is more than enough.
_________________ RIP Chelsea |
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| braidy |
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Private9 wrote: Ok, just had my EF sedan converted to gas so not much room for an install.
Anyhow I've got 2 x 12's which I'll just be sitting in the boot (I need to be able to quickly pull the box out quite often) and have 2 amps to run the system. I had planned to fit the amps under the front seats, however 1 of them will not go under the seat. Next plan was on the back of the back seats, between the gas tank and the back seat, however the larger amp just touches the gas tank right at the top. - So that place is out as well for the larger amp! Bearing in mind I need to keep whats left of my boot usable, where the hell can I put this bloody amp?! Next question is, the amp in question is an old school Kicker ZR360. This has a plug in crossover module, however as I bought the amp secondhand, I have no idea how to check the crossover frequency. Any ideas? Screw them to the back of the containing sub enclosure, or to the roof in the boot, as in, the underside of the parcelshelf. As for the Kicker, no idea. Probably have to buy a module. eBay maybe? Not ideal, but you might get away with the present crossover points, depending on what the amps were driving previously. Not ideal, but the cheap option. =P
_________________ RIP Chelsea |
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| data_mine |
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braidy wrote: data_mine wrote: How do you get speaker cable (16GA) through to the front doors on a BA/BF? Simple. Don't bother. I assume you're changing the stock speakers for aftermarket ones? The stock cabling is plenty enough. a*** cable is all wank. If they're just your average 4 inch or 6 inch or whatever, the stock cable is more than enough. Ok, my opinion of you has just flown out the door. I didn't ask weather I should bother or not, I asked how to do it. The system is built for SQ, so they're not your average 4 or 6 inch speakers. And if you knew BA/BFs (or even AUs) you'd know they're not 4 or 6 inch speakers.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Cy4NiD3 |
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data_mine... If there anything like a EF door i ran aftermarket cable through the doors when getting to the the body from the door( Easier to run the cable down the inside of the body then going up from the body running though the damn rubber loom covering was a s*** for me just geta screwdriver adn tape the cable to it and jab away make sure u cover the end once your through the rubber get yourself a coat hanger or a good peice of steel cable tape it to the end and run dwon the inside of the body take of the kickers (u may or may not had fibres mat stuff) take off any things and get behind the mat and move the wire around up and down until u can feel the end off it ( the inside wall should have "access holes" in the body) disconnect and work teh cable through then your free to route the cable wherever allthough ive never touched a AU/BA/BF they use a 5x7 speaker for front doors now dont they??? Anyways hopes the helps M8
Ill havea look at my Dads AU Series 3 ute toomorow for ya mate to see if my above answers correct Last edited by Cy4NiD3 on Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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| braidy |
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data_mine wrote: braidy wrote: data_mine wrote: How do you get speaker cable (16GA) through to the front doors on a BA/BF? Simple. Don't bother. I assume you're changing the stock speakers for aftermarket ones? The stock cabling is plenty enough. a*** cable is all wank. If they're just your average 4 inch or 6 inch or whatever, the stock cable is more than enough. Ok, my opinion of you has just flown out the door. I didn't ask weather I should bother or not, I asked how to do it. The system is built for SQ, so they're not your average 4 or 6 inch speakers. And if you knew BA/BFs (or even AUs) you'd know they're not 4 or 6 inch speakers. Alright then. Don't know AU/BA/BF's too well, usually deal with lower end cars. Not many people are wanting to do that sort of stuff in those cars just yet (aside from the AU, but I've never worked on one), by that I mean, around my area. Even if you're trying to build the system for sound quality, such thick cable still isn't worth it, depending on the speaker. I might be able to give a better opinion of what cable to use if you let me know what sort of speakers they are, 2 way, single way, their resistance, etc. Anything that would fit in a door wouldn't require much more than your average figure 8, depending on resistance. But to answer your question, I am not sure how to route the cable. If you're interested in an opinion, then just tell me. I am only trying to help. 
_________________ RIP Chelsea |
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| data_mine |
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braidy wrote: I am not sure how to route the cable.
That's all you needed to say then. My previous car was an EL, so I know who to get it done in those - and it's easy enough to run it through the door loom. From best I can tell they've made the doors have a plug into the body, rather than a continuous loom. So you can't physically get any cable through the loom. Also there's a few holes available in the body near the door covered in grommets. But after hours of trying they don't lead anywhere useful. I'm trying to find someone that's actually done it and can give detailed instructions.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Private9 |
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braidy wrote: Private9 wrote: Ok, just had my EF sedan converted to gas so not much room for an install. Anyhow I've got 2 x 12's which I'll just be sitting in the boot (I need to be able to quickly pull the box out quite often) and have 2 amps to run the system. I had planned to fit the amps under the front seats, however 1 of them will not go under the seat. Next plan was on the back of the back seats, between the gas tank and the back seat, however the larger amp just touches the gas tank right at the top. - So that place is out as well for the larger amp! Bearing in mind I need to keep whats left of my boot usable, where the hell can I put this bloody amp?! Thanks for the advice. I don't think I mount the amps to the enclosure as I need to be able to pull the box out quite frequently, without having to spend 10 minutes unwiring it each time - I'd also like the rest of the system to remain usable when the sub box is out of the car. I'm not sure if I can mount them to the top of the boot either, as I use my boot to it's full capacity at times, and things won't fit if I do this! I think it's soundling more and more like I might have to get a smaller amp  As for the crossover module, I'll just give it a try and see how it goes - if it sounds crap, I'll try to track down another! Next question is, the amp in question is an old school Kicker ZR360. This has a plug in crossover module, however as I bought the amp secondhand, I have no idea how to check the crossover frequency. Any ideas? Screw them to the back of the containing sub enclosure, or to the roof in the boot, as in, the underside of the parcelshelf. As for the Kicker, no idea. Probably have to buy a module. eBay maybe? Not ideal, but you might get away with the present crossover points, depending on what the amps were driving previously. Not ideal, but the cheap option. =P |
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| Big Kev |
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data_mine wrote: braidy wrote: I am not sure how to route the cable. That's all you needed to say then. My previous car was an EL, so I know who to get it done in those - and it's easy enough to run it through the door loom. From best I can tell they've made the doors have a plug into the body, rather than a continuous loom. So you can't physically get any cable through the loom. Also there's a few holes available in the body near the door covered in grommets. But after hours of trying they don't lead anywhere useful. I'm trying to find someone that's actually done it and can give detailed instructions. You'll find even for an SQ system dude for speakers the stock stuff will be fine....even tho I can see you seem to have ya heart fairly set in concrete on wanting to do this
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| Stone |
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The top SQ car in Australia uses stock wiring into the doors. 30cm of stock wiring will not make an audible difference no matter how good your ears and equipment is.
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| Big Kev |
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And so others are aware just incase your after a 2nd opinion or want to clarify anything or reasure yourself of an intention before u commit to anything u also have myself, Stone, Pyroay, Joolz, cooki_monsta
just to name a few of the frequent Car audio forum junkies who are more than happy to help I know there are more so plz dont feel left out if I missed u  wasnt intentional
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested Last edited by Big Kev on Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:24 am, edited 1 time in total. |
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