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Backlight of headunit flickers with the bass 

 

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 Post subject: Backlight of headunit flickers with the bass
Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:05 am 
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I have recently installed thermos in my ED
since then i have had trouble with car stereo, and unable to turn my steroe up loud.

When I turn it up to 30 the headunit backlight flashes with the beat and the speakers sound rooted. before hand it would take vol of 45 before a little ficker would appear.
I'm guessing i am not getting enough power to my head unit, so last night i ran my head unit direct from my battery (instead of stereo loom) and no difference.
Why is this?
Battery is on its way out and not producing proper amp?
thermos require the power even when not running?
require a ef/el alternator.

any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks Adam

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:08 pm 
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Adam,

The reason for the back light dimming/flashing and your speaker distortion is due to voltage drop.

Due to the load of the extra thermo fans and the current draw of the sound system your experiencing voltage drop as your alternator cannot keep up with charging the battery quick enough to compensate for the charge being drawn from the battery.

What you will need to do is to upgrade to a large Amp alternetor...or install a large capacity battery...do u know what size alternator you are ruinning is it the 80 Amp version id say u do or round that mark and may need to look at the higher out put 110/120Amp alternators that came with the higher spec EF/EL, fairmont ghia, XRs.

This will get you going...if you can upgrading both will be the best option but obviously the most costly.....a larger battery will allow your gear to run longer before the dimming will occur again...this will not correct it.

Cheers
Kev

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 5:10 pm 
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thermofans shouldnt make that much maybe have ya wiring from the alt to the bat upgraded or checked
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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 6:41 pm 
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i used to get this, but alot worse, dash, tailights, interior lights, headlights, everything used to dim, my amp/sub combination was made for a 4-guage kit, upgraded to a 2-guage power line and the problem is in the past...

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:48 pm 
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I have talked to a few people and I think it is a combination of I need a new battery and something in my electrical system isn't being earthed properly.

Don't the thermo's only draw power when they turn on? i have noticed it drops from 14.3 to 13.8 volts.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:53 pm 
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oh yeah I have a stock 60amp alternator (i think) trying to see if i can upgrade to a ef/el one not sure if it will work, i think they spin the oppisite way!?

can anyone confirm if an ef/el alternator can be just swapped for my ed one?

Thanks for your help

Adam

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:17 pm 
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bArNsY wrote:
I have talked to a few people and I think it is a combination of I need a new battery and something in my electrical system isn't being earthed properly.

Don't the thermo's only draw power when they turn on? i have noticed it drops from 14.3 to 13.8 volts.


yeh thats ok dude....both readings are normal for when the car is running and alternator is charging your batt/powering your accessories.... bigegr cabling in this case i dont think will help plus 4 guage can transfer i think round 200+ amps...i will confirm this which is a fair throughput.

The 60amp alternator is the killer here

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:23 pm 
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bArNsY wrote:
oh yeah I have a stock 60amp alternator (i think) trying to see if i can upgrade to a ef/el one not sure if it will work, i think they spin the oppisite way!?

can anyone confirm if an ef/el alternator can be just swapped for my ed one?

Thanks for your help

Adam


Umm mate i cant remember off the top of my head but i'll have a dig for you...and get back to u....this will greatly improve the current that can be supplied to your devices...most likely if you arent running any high current drawing applications such as fridges....entertainment or sound systems then ya battery can probably be left as is? Do u know the specs or what type of battery u have and how old it is?

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:38 pm 
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I have had my car since May this year so don't know how old the battery is but here is a pic

 

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:46 pm 
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thats ok appreciate the pic...looks like a bosch one is it...well dont matter .... id give the terminals a good clean....either clean em with a rag n give em a light file.....or better a bit of bi carb soda and warm water on the terminals to clean all the sulphur etc off...just dont inhale the s**t...not good :P...

The batt for now i wouldnt worry bout....

I'll have a look for alternator stuff now

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:53 pm 
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my mechanic put that s**t around the terminals for some reason when i got it serviced
I had that crusty (white/green) stuff build up every week and usually washed it away with hot water.

Thanks Adam

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:58 pm 
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hmm i'll hve to have a good search round i know i stashed e-series alternator specs round here somewhere...btu pretty much mate what u have to look at it...if you arent running the fans thru a realy...say ones on normally and for high temps the 2nd kicks in that they both just run...when there going strong they draw up to 30 amps ...so if your right and u have a 60 amp alternator ya go half the alternator output going to a couple fans lol....

Id disconnect the battery and clean the terminals....check the earth from the negative battery terminal to the chasis of the car or whereever yours is connected to....maybe clean the earth point...file it...clean the terminal and make sure its got clean contact..

You can upgrade your alternator power wires to ya battery positive terminal from 8 guage to 4 guage...u may wanna look at a distribution block or positive and negative terminal that take 4 guage input...these dont cost much and the cable wont be too bad either....if you upgrade the power cable size YOU MUST upgrade the earth to the same size..and try to keep the earth cable length identical to or preferably shorter than the power wire.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:02 pm 
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Thanks for all your help.
I am running 3 relays for my thermo's one for each fan and an extra for the air con.

Will a ef/el alternator fit straight on?

Adam

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:11 pm 
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bArNsY wrote:
Thanks for all your help.
I am running 3 relays for my thermo's one for each fan and an extra for the air con.

Will a ef/el alternator fit straight on?

Adam


thats what i gotta find..i had the instructions somewhere...might be in the fordmods tech doco im not sure...ive had a bit of a search onhere but after 4 pages i gave up for now :P ... if u do the alternator alone can cost u from $200-400 installed...so dunno if u have this in your budget

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:41 pm 
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i 'm interested in doing the serpantine belt convertion to my car to neaten it up a bit, may as well swap over the alternator.

Thanks again for all your help
Adam

 

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