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| 96ghia |
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Just got a set of old driving lights from the old mans cupboard, (not a bad little set... only low on power, but will do the job I want. and YES they do work!) and now I've got to wire them.
I put the wiring in the other day, but it would switch the lights on and off with the ignition, and I decided to change it so that the lights only come on with High Beam, (I'd accidentally wired it to the ignition power) Question is, does this diagram look right, and what colour is the Headlight Power line?? I am finding the headlight line very hard to find as its buried in the front part of the car. Is there another place I can pick it up?? Also, would wiring the Switch into the High Beam line be normal? Would there be a way of wiring the switch into the High Beam's activiation line in the cabin, rahter than running a line all the way from a headlight? I tried to find this yesterday but got lost with all the different colours in this loom, (I used the Haines Manual... didn't help much) This autoelectrics is still new to me, and I don't want to fizz my loom! cheers.
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| twase |
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96ghia wrote: Just got a set of old driving lights from the old mans cupboard, (not a bad little set... only low on power, but will do the job I want. and YES they do work!) and now I've got to wire them. Looks OK to me, if you don't need to switch them off seperately from the main high beam then just wire your pin 86 directly to the high beam bulb wiring at the light rather than running it back into the cabin. Your 10amp fuse may need to be greater depending on the lamps size, 2 x 55w is close to 10amps.
I put the wiring in the other day, but it would switch the lights on and off with the ignition, and I decided to change it so that the lights only come on with High Beam, (I'd accidentally wired it to the ignition power) Question is, does this diagram look right, and what colour is the Headlight Power line?? I am finding the headlight line very hard to find as its buried in the front part of the car. Is there another place I can pick it up?? Also, would wiring the Switch into the High Beam line be normal? Would there be a way of wiring the switch into the High Beam's activiation line in the cabin, rahter than running a line all the way from a headlight? I tried to find this yesterday but got lost with all the different colours in this loom, (I used the Haines Manual... didn't help much) This autoelectrics is still new to me, and I don't want to fizz my loom! cheers. Here is a link to help you. [url] http://www.computingunplugged.com/issue ... 01447.html [/url] Cheers TW
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| voids |
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why not swith 85 your ground instead of 86 positive, this way you only need to bring one wire into your interior and if it gets crushed or rubs through the only result will be your spotties will turn on insted of arching out someware.
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
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voids wrote: why not swith 85 your ground instead of 86 positive, this way you only need to bring one wire into your interior and if it gets crushed or rubs through the only result will be your spotties will turn on insted of arching out someware. bingo.....
*sigh* electrical backgrounds have a purpose in life other than to shock people..... lol
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| 96ghia |
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twason wrote: Looks OK to me, if you don't need to switch them off seperately from the main high beam then just wire your pin 86 directly to the high beam bulb wiring at the light rather than running it back into the cabin. Your 10amp fuse may need to be greater depending on the lamps size, 2 x 55w is close to 10amps. Here is a link to help you. [url] http://www.computingunplugged.com/issue ... 01447.html [/url] Cheers TW I did want a seperate isolator to be able to switch off the driving lights if needed. I've tested the 10 Amp fuse with the two lights on, (wired directly to the battery) and it seemed happy. If I want to get better lights in the future of course, I'll review the wiring and fuse. voids wrote: why not switch 85 your ground instead of 86 positive, this way you only need to bring one wire into your interior and if it gets crushed or rubs through the only result will be your spotties will turn on insted of arching out someware.
You mean Swap the 85 and 86 in the diagram? SO that the switch shuts off the Ground instead of the Power? |
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| GTBob |
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[quote="96ghiaI did want a seperate isolator to be able to switch off the driving lights if needed.
I've tested the 10 Amp fuse with the two lights on, (wired directly to the battery) and it seemed happy. If I want to get better lights in the future of course, I'll review the wiring and fuse. You mean Swap the 85 and 86 in the diagram? SO that the switch shuts off the Ground instead of the Power?[/quote] You MUST have a separate switch if you wanr it to be legal 
_________________ Rotten Old Revhead!!! XW GTHO + EF ex cop car (exractors 2.5 cat back zorst !6" Simmons K&N +airbox mods Lowered with Bilstein shocks+Whiteline Bars NEXT THING Swap HO for GTP or Ferrari! |
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| 96ghia |
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GTBob wrote: You MUST have a separate switch if you wanr it to be legal
I Guessed as much |
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| voids |
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no you are just switching your negative insted of positive, still only use one switch but you only have to run one wire inside the car just find a good earth inside. no reson for this method to not be legal as long as your spot lights turn off with high beam which they will.
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
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| chunkz |
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okay ladies
firstly find if your spotties/electrical system (i forget which one it is) are/is positivly switched or negativly then use the right diagram below pink = positive green = negative
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| 96ghia |
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These are the diagrams I've been searching for!
Thankyou! |
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| chunkz |
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yeh they're fkn good as...
they arnt mine they belong to some landrover guy and he cried last time some one posted it up..
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| GTBob |
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Well thought out diagrams a good post
_________________ Rotten Old Revhead!!! XW GTHO + EF ex cop car (exractors 2.5 cat back zorst !6" Simmons K&N +airbox mods Lowered with Bilstein shocks+Whiteline Bars NEXT THING Swap HO for GTP or Ferrari! |
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| autickfordfairmont |
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Good post with the diagrams.
And fords are negatively switched arent they, so you should only need the green diagram, true?? Ok, now i have a question for you guys. I do alot of day driving, and like to run with my headlights on so that i am more visible to other drivers. In the past i have run some pretty high wattage globes for night driving (i do a fair bit of that to) but in the day they get to hot, and from running all the time, i was going through a fair few bulbs. Since i put my driving lights on, i have been runnig them instead (Only 55w, aimed low) and havent gone through a single globe. What i would like is to be able to hook them up, so that they are always on, but when my low beams come on, they switch off, and when high beams are on they swicth back on. Also i would like a switch to be able to switch them off completely and also be able to switch them on completely so that in fog or really heavy rain i can switch them on with low beams for some extra light. How would i go about that, without the need for 100 wires running through the firewall?????? Cheers |
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| chunkz |
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so you want to be able to switch it on and off ALL the time...
but automatically turn off when low beams are on, but still give you the option to turn on when low beams are on... I dont know if you could, im guessing just use one switch between batter and lights (and fuse ofcourse) but also have a L.E.D to go on when the driving lights are on so you know they are on... and just turhn them off when low beams are on
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| 96ghia |
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a 3 position switch (on-off-on) might be useful.
Hook up one side one way, and the other side the other way. |
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