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Inline fuse doesn't blow, amp fuses blow. New amp. Help? 

 

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 Post subject: Inline fuse doesn't blow, amp fuses blow. New amp. Help?
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:03 pm 
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Hey guys,

At work at this is annoying the crap out of me so I am trying to work it out.

Threw a new amp in, wired it up (i do alot of this stuff, so I know what I am doing) and it blew the blade fuses in the amp the second I connected the positive to the battery. Car was not on or anything.

Got some more blade fuses, as they start to contact, they blow. I know the ground is good, metered at the amp terminals and am getting 12v or aroundabout anyways. Note, THESE FUSES BLOW WHEN THE AMP IS OFF.

I had the thought of a short. My problem with this theory is, why wouldn't the inline fuse blow. Is it possible it doesn't blow and the amp fuses do because of their lower current rating?

Need help urgently, frustrating the crap out of me.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:08 pm 
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what amp ??

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:36 pm 
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Some piece of crap US Audio thing.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:46 pm 
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well if the amp fuse is rated at 10A and inline is rated at 15A then of course the amp fuse will blow

but im guessing there would be a problem with the amp itself could be a loose wire in it

also check the connections for the speakers

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:15 pm 
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Connection to speakers are fine. So is it possible that its a short somewhere along the positive line? I wouldn't have thought that would blow the amp fuses though.

F**k amp?

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:59 pm 
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The problem CANNOT be in the power wiring otherwise the inline fuse would blow not the amps fuse so if the amps fuse is blowing then it can only be 1 of 2 things, the first is that the power is hooked up a*** about + to - and vice versa or the amp is shorted internally. Amps have a big diode that effectively presents a dead short if the polarity is back to front to prevent damage to the amp, maybe this diode is shagged or was assmebled incorrectly....

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:07 pm 
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a fuse/cb in theory will blow close as possible to the scourse if fuses are teh same.
what sort of fuse are they?
use multimeter and measure reistaance between + and - with nothing connected.
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:46 am 
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make sure none of your speakers have shorts to ground either. Most amps' speaker outputs float above earth due to push-pull design and use +ve/-ve internal rails. can s**t up if a short or something occurs.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:50 am 
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Well to start with I'd connect only the power wires, no speakers.

Double check you have the pos and neg correct.

If the fuse still blows then your amp is fuked.



Also you're meant to remove the main power fuse when youre installing amps, not just the amps fuse.

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:54 pm 
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Trigger/remote wire connected to ground by mistake?
Disconnect all speakers for the next test.

The problem is definately in or on the amp iteslf.

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:15 pm 
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gros20 wrote:
a fuse/cb in theory will blow close as possible to the scourse if fuses are teh same.
what sort of fuse are they?
use multimeter and measure reistaance between + and - with nothing connected.


Using a meter on the terminals won't prove anything due to diodes and filter caps etc on the 12v side of the amp.
If it is blowing fuses as soon as the fuse is inserted without the remote powered then the problem is inside the amp!

 

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