Help!!

I just turboed my EF, and finished all the piping. Moved the battery to the boot and now it wont crank fast enough.

I used 2 gauge wire, ran it through the interior out the firewall and connected it to the existing terminal. I then ran an earth from the battery in the boot to the chassis.

It cranks over, but just doesnt have enough power to start it. I have tried a number of different batteries, a 440 and a 480.

What can I do?? Will a dual battery setup help? Im not sure where I have g0ne wrong?

Thanks

Happy New Year I do not know what 2 gauge is but I would be using O B& S cable .Put the positive cable straight to to the starter motor.The negative cable should be in 2 pieces ,1 between your starter and a chassis earth and the other should be between chassis earth and your battery negative post and lastly I would recommend a heavy duty battery with at least 600 ccas .A n70zz battery would be the go or if you can afford it an Optimax spiral wound battery or even better leave the battery where it was and use the new cables to replace the el cheapo originals.Ahhh so many choices enjoy Kevman

Thanks Kev.

Leaving the battery there is no option as there is a big 3 inch intercooler pipe there lol

I just dont want to fork out for a battery just to find out its not the problem..

Looks like ill be back under the car

Make sure there is a decent connection between the body and the engine..
i know a bloke that moved his battery in his holden, and had the same trouble becuase there was no lead from the body to the engine..
David

as he said,but put 2-3 as you need to have a good clean contact with the car moving,fluid spills and age the contact fails,have to clean it all again.

Thanks DJ,

Took a look at that connection, and also tried to beef it up. I then also ran another smaller wire from battery - to terminal, with no change

I beefed up all of the earths, and it made it a little better. However, after I take it for a drive and when a little bit of heat gets into it, it then struggles and only starts half the time.

I took it to an auto electrician and he said the wire used is fine??

So in that, I am thinking that the 480cca battery is just not up to the task??

are you also running a negitive cable to the front?

check for any weak link in the positive line including the terminal clamp. 2 gauge is plenty.


edit: check that all cables are kept away from exhaust heat, high heat=higher resistance.

Other than what reford suggested above, like you said it does sound like its the battery.

If you do replace it you can put a much larger than stock battery in place, as about the largest you can fit is 550cca (yellow top D34/5?), something over 600cca would be great though.

if u got the cash get 2 brand spankin 550cca install 1 like normal and install the other as a aux battery

real dual battery setups dont use both batterys to start the car they only use 1 and once ya main cranking battery reaches a full charge the duel battery device opens and lets the alternator charge the aux

and for any reason u left your lights on or ya got a main battery that is flat you can override and use both batterys to start if need be

i done this setup in my bush basher had 1 main cranking battery and 3 aux deep cells for fridges spotlights laptops radios never had a problem

i recon its a goer for anyone with a not so factory sound systems bigger fuel pumps or heps of 12v toys

if ya thinkin goin duel battert setup i got wiring diagrams that u might find useful

extra weight is the only problem with a dual battery setup but i can say that after running 2x14plates in my old dodge its a hastle free setup.

There wont be any need for a 2nd battery ... unless you plan for a large entertainment system/auxillary devices etc.

If the car runs without issue once shes successfully cranked over then theres no point in an additional battery...these can also b fairly hefty on the hip pocket also for a decent one.

You can purchase thinner (sort of like motor cycle) batteries for instances such as this to be mounted elsewhere in the engine bay (this will rule out the issues with current delivery over longer lengths of cable). Oddyssey do large CA and CCA output models.

If you choose to go a larger battery boot mounted...not under the vehicle or engine bay remeber there are also legalities involved both ADRs and VSB compliances...to do with ventilation for non-sealed lead acid batteries, mounting position and angles, batter box enclosures etc.

Optima do offer a RED top model (Ive found doesnt make too big a diff for cranking as to the yellow tops). The D34 yellow top offers over 800cca and red top 1000cca.

I'd se if any auto elecs or nearby battery retailers would allow you to connect either one (they should have a demo available) to see if this resolves the issue.

So if you just sat a battery in the engine bay somewhere secure or on the ground next to the car with some short leads going into the engine bay...will she crank over easily with the existing battery?...Just this may display the problem isnt with cable size or length but with the current cold cranking output of the current battery.

A larger yellow top etc is double the output of your current batteries output so may be worth a good look in. Gimme a yell if you wanna know anything more bout what ive said. PM or reply here.

Cheers
Kev

yes good advice there. When I had a hotted up mini they were all in the boot with a nice big fat cable to the starter. When I raised the compression with a high performance head it would not turn over with the original battery so I got a "V8" battery about 500cca on a 1 litre engine and it worked fantastic. For the Ford they spec at least a 550cca battery for the big 6. I have found any loss of battery performance means its not going to start. Get the biggest battery you can find. I would have thought a low compression turbo engine should be easier to turn over anyhow? But you can't beat a kick-a** battery.
Having said all that have you got a good multimeter?
you need to measure the voltages from the battery terminals when cranking and at the starter when cranking. if they are sustantially different then you have loss in the cables/terminals/connections. You should measure at least 13 volts standby , 12 volts when cranking or the battery is stuffed. If you know your way around a multimeter you can work out where the fault is but I think the battery will be stuffed. I have had 2 die after about 2 years without warning.
Good luck

adr also spec that sealed and agm batterys are also to be vented any battery within the cabin or boot must be vented goes with alot of c.a.m.s and ccda rules also

i think its crap anyway but yea

This issue was raised in another thread which i'll post up.

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/post761427.html?highlight=#761427

Im fairly confident the ADRs do not specify this requirement for genuine "SEALED" lead acid batteries. This includes fully enclosed gel/dry cell electrolyte batteries.

Your normal run of the mill century etc batteries are not "SEALED" in the same way and not categorised as a sealed lead acid battery as they vent to the atomosphere. Gel/Dry electrolyte batteries do not require a ventilation. This im certain is the ruling for ACT/NSW and WA. (excluding C.A.M.S etc type rules as these greatly differ from the enforced rules on normal roads).

Any "SEALED" battery type should also have the approved engineering labelling to state the fitted battery type is of a gel/dry cell electrolyte configuration if not mounted in a externally vented enclosure. (This vetilation must also be to the vehicle not the battery box etc enclosure when mounted in the boot or cabin Does not apply for batteries fitted under the vehicle body/chasis beyond the rear opening windows and engine bay).