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| MoNGooSE |
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I just bought two circuit breakers from Jaycar. One is a simple 0g in - 0g out 120A inline breaker. The other is a distribution block 4g in - 2x8g out twin 60A breaker.
Both breakers have voltmeters built into them. I have two problems. Firstly, the 120A breaker isn't tripping. As in, when it's off there's still power flowing... I'm assuming that's just a faulty unit... My second problem is the fact that both voltmeters aren't working. The 2x60A one is tripping out and working in that respect but the voltmeter isn't lighting up. Wouldn't the voltmeter need a negative wire in order to work? As neither of them have one.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| phongus |
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MoNGooSE wrote: I just bought two circuit breakers from Jaycar. One is a simple 0g in - 0g out 120A inline breaker. The other is a distribution block 4g in - 2x8g out twin 60A breaker.
Both breakers have voltmeters built into them. I have two problems. Firstly, the 120A breaker isn't tripping. As in, when it's off there's still power flowing... I'm assuming that's just a faulty unit... My second problem is the fact that both voltmeters aren't working. The 2x60A one is tripping out and working in that respect but the voltmeter isn't lighting up. Wouldn't the voltmeter need a negative wire in order to work? As neither of them have one. Yes both meters should have a negative wire/outlet so that you can earth it for them to work. If there is a screw or small bolt somewhere which might remotely look like it is connected to the meter, then try and earth that bolt/screw. It might just work. With the 120A breaker not tripping, you might want to send that back to JayCar and getting them to have a look at it. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| EFfalconsrule |
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They do not necessarily need an earth the look at the wire coming out asthe earth goingto the next component in line. I f you understand what I mean.
_________________ Stage 1 stereo install done. Pics in audio section. |
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| smiley235 |
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EFfalconsrule wrote: They do not necessarily need an earth the look at the wire coming out asthe earth goingto the next component in line. I f you understand what I mean.
Might understand better if you used spaces and grammar, but anyway, you definitely need an earth for the voltmeter.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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| Nigel |
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They are probably designed to be screwed into the chassis somewhere, so that they get ground. you might just have to run a wire.
Nigel |
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| MoNGooSE |
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double post... whoops
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 Last edited by MoNGooSE on Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| MoNGooSE |
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Nigel wrote: They are probably designed to be screwed into the chassis somewhere, so that they get ground. you might just have to run a wire.
Nigel Exactly what I thought... I pulled the working breaker to pieces and there are two wires coming out of the back of the digital display on the voltmeter. One is red and goes to the switch and the other is black and follows down to the base where one of the screw holes is metallic. So basically this needs to be screwed into the metal body in order to work. otherwise you need to run a separate wire from the screw hole.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| data_mine |
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One of the four screw holes is actually the earth, it's pretty obvious which one it is, cause it's surrounded by metal, the other three aren't.
Make sure it's screwed into something metal and earthed, or fabricate up a thin bit of wire (it's only doing a few mA, so you don't need 4GA) into the hole, and earth it.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| MoNGooSE |
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Yeh... When I actually looked I found it. Is this going to drain my battery as it will always be on won't it?
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| phongus |
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MoNGooSE wrote: Yeh... When I actually looked I found it. Is this going to drain my battery as it will always be on won't it?
Yes it does use a bit of battery juice, but you won't even notice it. If you want you can always use the same ground cable for both meters (in series) and use a switch to switch it on and off. I have had mine in since last year and I haven't noticed any difference. Shouldn't be of any hassle unless your battery is dead, or it isn't being charged by alternator. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| MoNGooSE |
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Battery is dead
 But not to worry. The old man is a rep. for a battery company here.
I'm taking both breakers back as the casing on the working one is cracked all the way around. Pretty dodge quality all round really. I'll exchange the 2x60A one for the rear and just get a nice fat 0g fuse holder for the front. I should be able to wire up the voltmeter on the 2x60A breaker so it comes on with the amps using the remote wire signal.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| data_mine |
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They turn off, after a few mins if there's no change in voltage. They draw bugger all anyway.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| MoNGooSE |
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Thanks mate. Good to know.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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