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New setup. HELP 

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:20 pm 
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OBS35N wrote:
cause when i hit the big long bass notes it holds the power to the amp and keeps the current stable for longer bass notes. this is in an SPL situation. i do notice a difference because i run analogue autometer gauges to monitor current drop

If you look on Car Audio Australia forums there was tests done for SPL runs and a cap actually caused a lower score. They will help stabilise the voltage, that's what they are meant to do, but they a never NEEDED.

After saying that, they can't hurt... But when building a system, you really should put as much money as you can towards the equipment that will make the noise... Speakers and subs. $200 extra towards an amp won't make a significant improvement in sound, but $200 extra on front speakers can make a massive difference to the quality of a system.
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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:33 pm 
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well it made a significant difference in my car.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:13 pm 
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OBS35N wrote:
well it made a significant difference in my car.


Yeh I agree with you still sone but also Im in the same boat as OBS35N .. but I am running more gear then what Rusty intends too...

Was running 6amps, 3 batteries, standard 110/120 amp alternator, 4x 12" subs etc etc but a 25 farad cap in an SQL setup obviously for most thats extreme but yeh.

Rusty...dude what are you planning for this car...you say auto salon but for what....show/SQL comp/SPL comp or combo what exactly are you after and dont say all :P ...

and all ALPINE I like ya thinkin...how I went...hehe wanna buy my install lol

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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OBS35N wrote:
well it made a significant difference in my car.

If you noticed it make a difference, you must have bought it after you already had your system installed, yeah? That's all i'm recommending this guy do... Spend his cash on putting a good system in, then IF he has any issues, buy the cap later :)
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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:32 pm 
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no it all got put in at the same time but then i noticed it wasnt installed properly and after it was rewired it performed MUCH better

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:39 pm 
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yeh purely comes down to the components, how you have it all setup and intend for it to perform like ie just a comp burp car etc...depends on what Rusty plans for it to do etc...in his case tho I really wouldnt bother and doubt he'd get a decent cap for $200 anyways...$300 yeh but $200 there aint alot out there for this sorta setup tht would cause any difference...

and if your going SQL comp and no where near SPL then dont even bother with one..

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 4:07 pm 
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the whole car is for show, so after ive got all stuff in and if its worth gonig for SQL if this stuff will be worth going in for SQL or SPL.

but as for now its for show, butstill want a fairly descent sound system.

V12 MRD M1005 1 x 1000rms @ 2 ohms $650
V12 MRV F343 4x 75 rms @ 4ohms $465
2 x Alpine Type R swr 1222d 12" $530
components DLS References R6A 6.5" rated at 80 rms $355
2 x 6.5" head rest Monitors. $380 both.
Optima yellow top cell battery 870. $250

not sure what rear speakers.

does this stuff sounds good.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:10 pm 
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yup sounds good...and a side note where are you getting these prices from?

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:53 pm 
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would a SWR - 1242d be better than a SWR - 1222D to run with my MRD M1005 and is 1000rms at ohms.

which sub would be better to use so i can run the max of the amp..

or how ever i should.

 

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Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 8:32 pm 
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If the amp does 1000Wrms at 2 ohm and you want two subs, you'd use the SWR-1222D.

Wire the coils in series on each sub to make each sub 4 ohm overall then wire the subs in parallel to give a 2 ohm load over both subs.
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Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 10:44 pm 
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Stone wrote:
If the amp does 1000Wrms at 2 ohm and you want two subs, you'd use the SWR-1222D.

Wire the coils in series on each sub to make each sub 4 ohm overall then wire the subs in parallel to give a 2 ohm load over both subs.


as Stone's said wired up as the pic below to output a 2ohm load....and yes the SWR - 1222D is what you will need....since you are choosing the 2x subs with a single amp pathway..

ps i know the type r symbols looks s**t :P

 

 

Attachments:
2ohmload.JPG
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Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:49 am 
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i currently have a dvc sub that im running off a two channel amp, and i have one channel goin to each voice coil....is this wrong? Im pretty sure each voice coil is 4ohms but my amp can run at 2ohm stable

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 4:22 pm 
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It's fine to run individual coils from individual channels, but I prefer to bridge the amp to both coils so you KNOW the coils are getting exactly the same signal.

Running each channel at 4 ohms gives the same power as running the amp bridged into both coils in series at 8 ohm.
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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:41 pm 
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is alpine type R any good?, i heard the sound quality is good but if you want hard deep bass would it cut it

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:44 pm 
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Type R are alright. Middle of the range subs. If you put them in the right box and give them enough clean power, they'll have good quality and sound how you want them to. The box will make the most difference to how good they sound.
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