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Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again 

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:10 pm 
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So you reckon it would cost around 3500 just for materials? If i were to say get the paint at cost price, what sort of price do youreckoin i would be paying. More to the point what sort of mark up is on the paint before the customer gets it.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:03 pm 
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castlegreyskull wrote:
So you reckon it would cost around 3500 just for materials? If i were to say get the paint at cost price, what sort of price do youreckoin i would be paying. More to the point what sort of mark up is on the paint before the customer gets it.

what brand are you looking at if you get concept or similar you are talking cheap products if you want quality like glasurit etc you will pay for it when i say 3500 i am factoring in sand paper filler primer thinners masking tape so on i think the last cheapie i did cost me about 6 or700 for paint clear primer & thinners for paint you can shortcut things by using cheap basecoat but the clear is what makes or breaks it with shine and durability if you want a bit more personal advise pm me your daytime number and i will give you a call tommorrow i had internet troubles today

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 7:28 pm 
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thanks for the tips nlb, the paint turned out pretty good n i ended up buyin a nice grav feed gun so im pleased :D how do you think a black base with blue pearl thru it would look??? *has ideas for new paint job* :D

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:18 pm 
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Ride: ef xr8

Power: 229 rwkw

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

My ef xr8 is heritage green and the paint on top of the roof and bonnet is starting to go hazey. A litttlee bit whitish in some areas and there are a few marks (from bat droppings). Is it too late to get out the white haze? If so is it possible to do a partial respray or will that look a bit mismatched due to paint ageing?

 

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'95 EF XR8 auto, Advance headers, 3" exhaust, Cobra manifold, BBK 75mm throttle body , 80MM Marauder MAF, Vortech V2 T Trim , 307 rwhp, 405 ft/lb 13.2 @ 105 MPH

Now N/A (permanent Lag) - AFR 165's, Comp XE270 cam, 1.6 RR - 269 rwhp 14.1 @ 102mph.

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Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:46 pm 
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cooki_monsta wrote:
thanks for the tips nlb, the paint turned out pretty good n i ended up buyin a nice grav feed gun so im pleased :D how do you think a black base with blue pearl thru it would look??? *has ideas for new paint job* :D

if you mix blue pearl with the black base it will turn purple you are better off doing a three layer which means black base then a pearl concentrate {you mix with a little bit of clear} thinner right out then clear over top it will give it a much better effect ie black then where the light hits will be blue just make sure you dont apply the pearl to thick it will end up streaky make your concentrate really thin 50ml pearl to 800ml thinners and use a wide fan on your gun you will have more joy now with the gravity gun but do a couple of practice panels to get the right effect more coats the bluer it will be good luck

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:53 pm 
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schnoods wrote:
My ef xr8 is heritage green and the paint on top of the roof and bonnet is starting to go hazey. A litttlee bit whitish in some areas and there are a few marks (from bat droppings). Is it too late to get out the white haze? If so is it possible to do a partial respray or will that look a bit mismatched due to paint ageing?

the problem here is the clear is starting to break down you know how you see reds fading etc if the rest of the paint is ok you should be able to get away with roof bonnet boot and blend the front guards for a good match get the rest of the car cut and polished while your at it if you leave it to long and the clear starts to peel or crack you will have to get the panels paint stripped or else it will crack and craze underneath the new paint and you will up for it all again if you get it early enough you can dry sand the old clear off then paint over

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:33 pm 
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Power: 229 rwkw

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Thanks for the advice.

I'll get cracking before it does!

 

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'95 EF XR8 auto, Advance headers, 3" exhaust, Cobra manifold, BBK 75mm throttle body , 80MM Marauder MAF, Vortech V2 T Trim , 307 rwhp, 405 ft/lb 13.2 @ 105 MPH

Now N/A (permanent Lag) - AFR 165's, Comp XE270 cam, 1.6 RR - 269 rwhp 14.1 @ 102mph.

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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 1:41 am 
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Ride: EF Fairmont II

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?
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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 1:41 am 
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Location: Melbourne
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my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?
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Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 8:39 am 
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FaBz wrote:
my brother has nc fairlane ghia 93 model and the rear bumper is no longer holding an i was wondering wat he can do to get this proplem fixed and how much is a new bumper?

The rear bar is similar to the ea as the cover is held to a plastic reinforcment by plastic lugs that have the ends melted and these let go after a few years.The costless way to fix is to remove the chrome mould and while holding the bar is the position it should sit is to drill some 1/8 holes through the cover and into the rio with some countersunk head screws attatch the two together only do about three for a start one on each end and one in the middle.Then remove the bumper and check postioning also check the condition of the plastic slide clips on the sides.now you can add a couple more screws 2 or 4 should be plenty then either glue on the old mould or i would suggest see your local pinstripe supplier {ask a local panel shop who they use}and get him to supply a new mould {much cheaper than gen} If this gets too hard a new bar will set you back around 300-400 plus paint

 

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 Post subject: Re: .
Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:27 pm 
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nlbxr6 wrote:
cooki_monsta wrote:
thanks for the tips nlb, the paint turned out pretty good n i ended up buyin a nice grav feed gun so im pleased :D how do you think a black base with blue pearl thru it would look??? *has ideas for new paint job* :D

if you mix blue pearl with the black base it will turn purple you are better off doing a three layer which means black base then a pearl concentrate {you mix with a little bit of clear} thinner right out then clear over top it will give it a much better effect ie black then where the light hits will be blue just make sure you dont apply the pearl to thick it will end up streaky make your concentrate really thin 50ml pearl to 800ml thinners and use a wide fan on your gun you will have more joy now with the gravity gun but do a couple of practice panels to get the right effect more coats the bluer it will be good luck


thanks for that it sounds insane :D now all i need is the money to do it :P but thats how i want to respray my car :D

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 2:36 pm 
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Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.
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Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:12 pm 
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AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:17 pm 
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nlbxr6 wrote:
AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler


That is exactly what I meant, thanks :)

Also.. what would be the solution for a fix that would last longer?
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Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:20 pm 
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AdamN wrote:
nlbxr6 wrote:
AdamN wrote:
Got any tips for removing a rust spot the size of a 50c piece near the kick panel?
I was going to hammer out the rust.. sand back the whole kick panel part.. use rust convertor on any rust thats left.. then bog up the hole and spray over with one of those cans of paint from auto one.

sorry i dont know exactly where you mean but i am asuaming you mean the sill my suggestion for a temp fix for a year or so is get a grinder and get rid of all the rust that is there then use a convertor read the instructions because if you dont remove the convertor it will cause more then tap the edges of the rust hole in about five mm then get some fibreglass type filler it has more body and wont pall through then some light weight fill {bog} to finish it off make sure you use some primer before paint or the paint wont stick to the filler


That is exactly what I meant, thanks :)

Also.. what would be the solution for a fix that would last longer?

mig a plate in there

 

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