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Advise on Panel & Paint up and going again 

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:25 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Yeah I have no idea about welding, so I'll pass on that hehehe
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:07 pm 
Smokin em up
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Joined: 1st Sep 2005

Ride: EL Ghia Tickford 5.0

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

Hi there,
I've got a friend about to do a cheap paint job on my XD Ute, how good is the best enamel paint these days? can you get a good shine out of it? similar to acrylic with clear?

And how long would you expect it to last before it fades?

finally, what polish is best?

Thanks

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:02 pm 
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Location: brisbane
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Mhgill wrote:
Hi there,
I've got a friend about to do a cheap paint job on my XD Ute, how good is the best enamel paint these days? can you get a good shine out of it? similar to acrylic with clear?

And how long would you expect it to last before it fades?

finally, what polish is best?

Thanks

why would you want to use enamel unless its baked enamel{2 pack} if it is a solid colour you will get better shine than acrylic because you have to buff acrylic. enamel takes forever to dry but its up to you

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:06 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: FG MkII Xr6t Ute

Location: Brisbane
QLD, Australia

hey,

i live in brisbane and need to get a patch fixed on my front bar (about 10cm diameter circle)...the paint has come off from scraping a wall and there may be a few light scratches...do you have any idea of prices id be looking at? the colour is gunmetal grey (off an el falcon)

cheers nick

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:16 pm 
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around $400 will respray the whole bar where abouts in bris I might be able to recommend someone

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:10 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BF MKII V8 Fairmont Ghia

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

scratches on a bonnet.

from a round pole laying across the bonnet.

colour is bionic blue? i think, BF falcon, paint is only 9 months old. no dents, just a few scratchs along the bonnet and a few deep ones.


some guy today said $750, and they have to over spray to match the side panels? i know u need to over spray to match on older cars, but should they need to do that on a 9 month old car with 5000km, and spends most days in a garage?

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:21 pm 
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Gaz wrote:
scratches on a bonnet.

from a round pole laying across the bonnet.

colour is bionic blue? i think, BF falcon, paint is only 9 months old. no dents, just a few scratchs along the bonnet and a few deep ones.


some guy today said $750, and they have to over spray to match the side panels? i know u need to over spray to match on older cars, but should they need to do that on a 9 month old car with 5000km, and spends most days in a garage?

Any mettalic colour will need to be blended as the name says mettallic is little pieces of metal which will reflect different colours if laying different ways.Price is on the money for any decent shop

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 1:36 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: XH XR6

Location: Townsville
QLD, Australia

I got a local panelbeater to paint and fit new front and rear bumbers to my ute. Also some panel work to one of the doors.

We both agreed the freshly painted bumpers would look crap against the old body paint, so he resprayed the whole thing.

But the useless tool didn't do enough prep work and sprayed over stone chips and scratches. However he did take the time to do in and around the doors.

Is this 'fixable' by redoing bad areas and blend in, or does the whole thing need ANOTHER respray??The colour is Biscayne blue.

The ute is now in another state from where it was "resprayed".
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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 4:39 pm 
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G'day nlbxr6
I took down my new front bar, rear bar and side skirts(bodykit) down to a recommended panelbeater to get painted, well a quote at first. I was then told that the rear bar was actually fibreglass and would need to be back filled, but I think the rest was plastic including the bonnet. They said they would call me an hr later to let me know how much it would set me back, called them yesterday and they have quoted me $1900 just to paint, front bar, rear bar, bonnet (both sides) and 2 side skirts. I am gobsmacked, but it doesn't sound right to me still.

The car is a metallic AU forte Meteorite, H4. My question to you is does the price sound right or a bit over the top? :)
I haven't taken a magnifying glass over the kit, but the rear bar does have minute bumps along the surface.

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:17 pm 
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danjb wrote:
I got a local panelbeater to paint and fit new front and rear bumbers to my ute. Also some panel work to one of the doors.

We both agreed the freshly painted bumpers would look crap against the old body paint, so he resprayed the whole thing.

But the useless tool didn't do enough prep work and sprayed over stone chips and scratches. However he did take the time to do in and around the doors.

Is this 'fixable' by redoing bad areas and blend in, or does the whole thing need ANOTHER respray??The colour is Biscayne blue.

The ute is now in another state from where it was "resprayed".

if it only one or two panels then you should be able to blend these panels but there are marks on every panel it would make sense to respray

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:23 pm 
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MilleniumFalcon wrote:
G'day nlbxr6
I took down my new front bar, rear bar and side skirts(bodykit) down to a recommended panelbeater to get painted, well a quote at first. I was then told that the rear bar was actually fibreglass and would need to be back filled, but I think the rest was plastic including the bonnet. They said they would call me an hr later to let me know how much it would set me back, called them yesterday and they have quoted me $1900 just to paint, front bar, rear bar, bonnet (both sides) and 2 side skirts. I am gobsmacked, but it doesn't sound right to me still.

The car is a metallic AU forte Meteorite, H4. My question to you is does the price sound right or a bit over the top? :)
I haven't taken a magnifying glass over the kit, but the rear bar does have minute bumps along the surface.

does sound a bit rich to me if it is all brand new stuff I would look at around 250 for the front bar 200 each skirt 100 for the bonnet vents and 250 for the rear bar plus some repair if fibreglass

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:08 pm 
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Ride: 03 Fairmont Ghia

Location: Perth
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All from AWC, I have roughly checked to see if it will fit on fine, so far so good.
They mailed me the quote, I asked for a quote just on painting, they have added in fitting as well, all up for $2175. I have removed the fitting side of things and its $520 to prepare, and about $175 to paint the bumpers. I'm assuming the L/H Sill Cover is my skirt.

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:20 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hey mate am about to get my car sprayed soon but am preping i myself wondering if you could give me a few tips eg what brand fillers to use? what grades of sand paper to start of with and what o end with should it be dry or wet sanded any info would be great cheers mate
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:52 am 
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shoey50 wrote:
hey mate am about to get my car sprayed soon but am preping i myself wondering if you could give me a few tips eg what brand fillers to use? what grades of sand paper to start of with and what o end with should it be dry or wet sanded any info would be great cheers mate


If you are doing large dents or many over a large area use a 24 or 36 grit disc on a 7 inch sander to remove paint dont hold in one spot as it will heat the panel and distort it and always use a disc that isnt blunt and clogged with paint etc.Then use a good lightweight filler KandH infra or septone 2K knock the top off it with 36 grit until almost right shape finish with 80 and 120 then feather all paint edges with 240 before applying primer.
If they are minor dents use some 36 or 60 grit on a random sander to rough up the surface then apply an ultra light weight filler {mainly used for chips etc between prime and paint stages}as it is easy to sand start with 80 grit and finish with 180 using a circular motion when sanding to prvent getting edges.
Never apply filler or primer onto a surface that hasnt been sanded as it will lift and peel
Dry rubbing is best until the final rub before painting
Good Luck

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:47 pm 
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thanks mate that should help a fair bit
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