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 Post subject: High speed vs low speed buffing
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:58 am 
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Understanding machine polishers

Unfortunately there is a myth around worldwide and has been for many years that polishing machines burn paint, leave swirl marks, are not safe for paint and should not be used

This is not true

What causes buffing swirls, 3D holograms and paint burns are the following

User error by untrained detailer or someone who was trained ten to fourty years ago
Both of whom do not realise that buffing the old fashioned way with rpm speeds of 1800 to 3000 rpm does not work anymore
The paints cannot hack it.

2. tilting the pad up
they heat up one area of the pad and thus burn edges
What is happening is the heat is being concentrated in that one area

when the pad is dead flat, the heat is spread out evenly
because the pad is not dead flat on the surface and they move the machine too fast and do not slow the RPM's down at the end, they leave buffing swirls and holograms behind
Some buffing swirls left behind are half moon/semi circle shaped

3. Too many detailers don't mask edges and use a pad thats too big for the panel and thus overhang of the pad when moved, burns edges, corners and the area where the bonnet, roof and boot meet the glass

On an EA to FG falcon, 6.5 inch pads are the best size for refinishing the boot. 7.5 inch are best for the bonnet and doors and 8 inch for the roof

4 inch to 5 1/2 inch pads are better for front guards, glass, trims (with trim dream) and bumper bars.

Please note - Abrasive products need to be fully broken down or they will cause marring

Gritty Cutting compounds that leave marks, filling polishes, wax impregnated polishes and glazes have now been replaced with cream or liquid diminishing abrasive levellers, compounds and polishes that are free of silicone, wax or any fillers

They break down finer and finer as they are worked in and will never leave marks behind

With advancements in paint technology and factory paints becoming thinner, more like plastic with either a rock hard or very soft super glossy finish, different techniques must be developed

The days of dry buffing with cornflour are over.

Whilst in the 20th century, buffing was done at 1800 to 3000 rpm with the machine turned on at high speed straight away, today's vehicles need to be done with low to medium speed buffing between 300 and 1600 rpm

With foam I start at 600 with my rotary, once the oils start to spread, I move to 750, then 900 for 30 seconds and slowly but surely I work my way at 200 rpm each time up to 1300 and then once the product has broken down, the rpm's are dropped to 1200, 1000, 850 and finally, 600 to 750 for a hologram, swirl mark, scratch, bird mark and nib free flawless finish

Wool is a different story

This cuts cooler than foam but it also cuts quicker and deeper so gotta be careful

The abrasives will break down faster too

Wool is applied to machine, polish to the paint
RPM set to 1500 for some products (menzerna, 1400 to 1600 for Prima, 1200 for Sonus, 1700 for Hi Temp

(if you don't use the speeds they were designed for, perfect correction of defects can't be achieved)

I spread the product at 600 or with the machine off
Then straight to the correct speed and slowly move the machine left to right then up and down and vice versa until the product film becomes clear or dissappears

Upon seeing this, I slow the machine down to 900 then stop

At Glowriders we offer hands on, real vehicle practice detailing training for those who want to learn to refinish or care for their car like the masters

before we teach people to use rotary machines at 600 to 1700 rpm, orbital machine polishing is taught

These machines take much longer to correct and can not leave holograms or burn paintwork
I suggest people learn to use a festool or bosch orbital and then once they have mastered that, move on to a rotary and either use both or go back to orbital (most will)

You can use non abrasive long term filling polishes with both machines as much as you like as no paint will be removed

Blame the user, not the machine and polish for the damage mentioned above

Many people have been burnt by an unprofessional hack detailer with a rotary doing two steps and hiding the holograms with wax
This is why the myth has been so wide spread

In people's minds - machine polisher = burnt edges, buff swirls, holograms, cut and polish

At Dream Machines and Glowriders, we call our work Levelling, correction and enhancement. Not cut and polish

We can remove 500 grit to 3000 grit marks without removing much paint at all (even less than with our previous favourite - Menzerna) with one polish

Take out bird s**t crazing that previously required wetsanding, reduce orange peel permanently from factory paints without removing any paint and much more

So forget the past and embrace the future
If anyone has any questions and wants to improve their techniques or learn, please contact me

I'll show you videos on this topic shortly

 

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Sept 5 - ressurecting the AU XR Falcon and back in the car scene

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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:35 am 
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Here you are Dave - the C1 sealant
Please note - I won't be applying it that poorly, a nice gentle movement is better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekjuDNkMN3g

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:54 am 
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Look at these guys showing off the damage that can be done via a rotary buffing one spot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y8vHRwi ... re=related

Please buff responsibly

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:47 pm 
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Video is abit hard to see the results of the C1 but looks like its an easy sealant to apply.

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:29 am 
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unprofessional video but it was done for me in a hurry, they are quite busy

I'll show you guys this stuff by the end of the weekend with some new videos

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:56 pm 
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Driven VRL tip

To apply, begin with a GPI foam pad (come in a pack of four)
For the final top coat of protection, apply with a microfibre pad as seen below

http://www.autoprodetailproducts.com/product/TerryAppl

 

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 9:23 am 
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Aurora 98 wrote:
Hi everyone

My desire to share with you, some of my automotive detailing/refinishing knowledge is able to become a reality thanks to this site

Here is the first of many hints and tips, everyone feel free to chime in with any tips you have, there is no way I could know everything
My knowledge comes from years of discussion with america's and europe's best professional detailers and the owner/proprietor of small-medium sized companies who manufacturer today's cutting edge technology products and my own research and development of the latest products from USA, Germany and other parts of Europe.



Tip #1

Washing & drying

To reduce or eliminate wash induced marring/swirl marks etc, use three buckets
Fill one with your chosen body shampoo/conditioner using at least two litres of purified or rain water and very warm tap water
The second with warm tap water and use the third for washing your wheels
Keep this one only for this purpose

Warm water acts as a wettening agent and sure is handy on cold mornings
Today's shampoo's act as conditioners as well and some even add a protective layer or polymer sealant.

Do a really good pre wash rinse on your wheels and arches(use a high pressure gun if you have it)
Keep it moving when doing wheel arches, you can strip the black protective coating off if you hold in one spot for long enough.

Use a sea sponge, microfibre or sheepskin wash mitt to shampoo your wheels, dunking into warm water bucket to quickly clean it a couple times with each wheel

Don't wet the body before doing wheels, paint is porous and it will open, absorb the water and then if not dried, will leave water spots which can etch into paintwork and this requires machine buffing in most cases to get out.

Hose off the shampoo from the wheels and then do pre wash rinse of body
Use vertical and horizontal angles with the gun or hose, do not aim straight at the paint as this can cause impact scratches or marks

If your door jambs are greasy/dirty, spray a paint safe degreaser or citrus cleaner (lanotec citra force comes to mind) in them and spray high pressure to clean, remember to do short sharp sprays, you don't want your interior to be saturated.

You can bathe your car in shampoo solution/suds by soaking your wash mitt/sponge in shampoo and then use low pressure and aim it at the mitt which should be vertical to nearest panel
Do this a couple times and then there is no need to use a foaming gun or shampoo tank of karcher etc which always seems to clog up even when I diluted the product.

To remove bugs, soak the affected areas with low pressure water for a few moments and leave to soak in.
Then finish off pre wash rinse with a high pressure blast from side on

Dunk the mitt/sponge in shampoo bucket and apply a 6 inch line of shampoo to a microfibre mitt (if using that)
Then start washing the roof first, followed by front windscreen,bonnet, rear windscreen and then boot
To prevent marring paint, clean the mitt/sponge in bucket of water after each panel or every second if car is reasonably clean
You may need to apply shampoo to the mitt a few times before it lathers up
They do not create lathery suds like a conventional sponge but are far safer

After the boot, do the left or right side of the car and then the opposite and front bumper
Make sure you wash in the shade, water spots are a higher risk in the sun

Once finished washing, rinse off the shampoo using a hose with no nozzle or trigger gun attached. Rinse the body in the same fashion as washing
Roof-fr screen-bonnet, rear screen,boot etc
Doing it this way allows you to use less water to remove shampoo and leaves less water on the surface which saves drying time
A hose with trigger gun or a pressure gun on high or low pressure creates more suds and leaves thousands of water beads sitting on the surface

With this completed, it's time to dry
When using a chamois, clean after each use as it will absorb more water and to make new ones thirstier, blast them with high pressure for a few minutes to take the slick feeling out of them.

Keep it flat and fully open and glide over all panels
Dry the windows first as this stops water spots, even bigger problem on glass
Then do the panels in same process as washing

Always dry your door jambs, engine bay, fuel filler area as well ,using a separate chamois if you have one
This keeps everything clean, dry and stops rust in it's tracks

You can also use microfibre chamois which you can wring out or in my opinion, for best results -an ultra microfibre waffle weave 60 x 90cm drying towel
Some of these have silk binding and can dry most cars by itself and will outlast a chamois by years

You fold twice or more if you wish and simply wipe in one direction, each panel
I fold twice and hold one corner and wipe from left to right
When that section gets pretty damp, I re fold to a dry section and can do this many times due to it's size

I hate wringing chamois out
Best of all these drying towels don't leave lines or streaks and are safer for your paint, they are almost impossible to scratch your paint and will not reduce slickness or strip your wax or sealant protective coatings

The smoother your paint is, the easier they will dry the paint

To add slickness and top up your protectants, use a quick detail spray after each wash
Make sure to use one that actually adds protection, not just removes finger prints and dust

Happy washing.
More tips tomorrow

Matty



hey mate,
gottold your the bloke to ask about restoring the red stripeon xr6's ???
mine is morepink then any other colour. got some tips??? or products to use??????



thankyou
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Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:09 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hello, thanks for posting

E series XR6 red stripes are fixable with a machine and either abrasive or non abrasive products

Menzerna is a great choice with an orbital to restore the colour and gloss
finish up with a finishing polish and then apply a pre wax cleaner and a sealant or wax to protect them

A laquer like coating called G Techniq C1 or another brand (there are many) will give you permanent protection from fading again but it is expensive and only available from the UK

besides that, regularly apply a paint sealant to protect the new found gloss

do you have a photo of them you could show me

 

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Sept 5 - ressurecting the AU XR Falcon and back in the car scene

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:23 am 
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Ride: BA XR6 N/A

Location: Kellyville
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hey buddy some great tips i have read some pages but not all so not sure if you have answered this ....

quick qs how do you keep the metallic paint in check mine always seems to fade very quickly...

 

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 12:36 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hotka wrote:
hey buddy some great tips i have read some pages but not all so not sure if you have answered this ....

quick qs how do you keep the metallic paint in check mine always seems to fade very quickly...


might be best so shoot him a pm as he is quite bussy at the moment.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 4:08 pm 
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done

good idea .......

 

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18 " King Wheels, Lowered King Springs,DBA Slotted Rotors, Grille, CIA
More to come....

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:58 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: f6 rspec

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hey, just wondering what u recommend for my ef's black seals around the car. They are badly faded, but when using mequires trim detailer makes them look 100% better. This however only last 7 days or so then its back to normal..especially after rain
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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:15 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Virginia
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FORDom wrote:
hey, just wondering what u recommend for my ef's black seals around the car. They are badly faded, but when using mequires trim detailer makes them look 100% better. This however only last 7 days or so then its back to normal..especially after rain


The EF seals are not UV stable and using any dressing or dye doesn't last long or it causes cracking
What is needed is a good wash and a clay bar treatment on them
Follow with Trim Dream step 1 to 3 kit using yellow, orange, white and black Lake country hand pads

Any quick detailer or spray sealant can be applied to them after each wash to keep them clean
Also, do not wash your car at coin op car wash bays as their soap will dry up the softer seals at the top and AU Falcon top rubber seals at the top of the side glass
Turns them brown and spotty

 

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Sept 5 - ressurecting the AU XR Falcon and back in the car scene

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 Post subject: Re: Car Detailing tips
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: ELXR8 SERIES 2

Location: naracoorte
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FORDom wrote:
hey, just wondering what u recommend for my ef's black seals around the car. They are badly faded, but when using mequires trim detailer makes them look 100% better. This however only last 7 days or so then its back to normal..especially after rain



go back through a few pages in exterior mods (search not working) and you will find a thread i did on ef/el exterior trims called "whos sick of those crappy mat grey ef/el exterior trims", should only be 1 or 2 pages back. it will give you a good idea on how well trim dream works.

 

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EF XR6, 5SPD, HERITAGE GREEN, AU XR6 VCT ENGINE

VL COMMODORE, 5SPD, WHITE

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 Post subject: TRIM DREAM HELPER - REFLOW
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:22 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Thank you Millard for that post and being back in this forum

For those wishing to try Trim Dream, there is a new product that I have developed called REFLOW that you put on by hand with a rag or foam pad (just coat the area and lightly rub in, do not wipe off) that will chemically deep clean the moldings so that your step 1 to step 3 or 4 pads don't get covered in black goo (basically UV damage and carbon)

It will blacken and smoothen them in preparation for trim dream and will make trim dream work better

Along with this, it is the worlds best de oxidiser for paintwork, glass, trims, rubber seals and high gloss unpainted plastic and best of all, when applied after washing by hand to the entire car and left on for another 15 mins after the whole car is covered, can be buffed off with a microfibre towel

It will make claying easier as it softens fallout and all other contaminants, while bringing the fresh off the gun colour back to the paint

Once finished claying, have a look and a feel of the paint
Then before polishing by hand or machine, apply the product to the first two panels you are going to start working on. just cover the area well then put your favourite polish on a foam pad (we recommend the Lake country CCS hand pads) and polish just like normal
As you polish the paint, the reflow underneath will deep clean the paint even more and make the polish work for longer and not be dusty and does moisturise the paint

Buff off your polish and feel the paint and check out the shine. it should be ultra slick
once finished polishing, apply reflow again thinly (very thin) and apply a paint sealant (not a wax)
It will provide a base for the sealant and harden the paint to a degree. how much depends on alot of factors and will be random.

Availability - mid to late march

 

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Sept 5 - ressurecting the AU XR Falcon and back in the car scene

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