If you can feel that scratch with your fingernail, it's too deep to remove but can be hidden or removed by chips away, duco magic etc

What do you recommend for when at shows to get the dust off the car. The biggest problem I have found is when you come out with the cloth, whether it be a polishing cloth or even a towel, and try to remove the days dust, that it doesn't lift the dust but just smears it around.
Got any recommendations that lifts the dust straight off and a good spray to keep the shine up?

Cheers

Try this place, they know a whole lot about detailing, http://www.detailparadise.com.au/

Good one trick flow - detail paradise is the ozzie autopia.
Can't go wrong with the advice of those guys

If you have wax or no protectants on the paint, a car duster is fine.
The paraffin wax in the duster is not compatible with paint sealants and is residue city sometimes

Otherwise a waterless wash , QD spray or spray sealant and multiple cloths is next best.

Hi Aurora,

Got a couple of questions for you...
1. Can you recommend a paint to re-coat
my windsceen trim ?
2. Is there a sealer of some kind that I could apply
to arrest the peeling clear-coat on my door ?

Many thanks.

 

 

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EB92 if you have a look in the doco section there is a writeup on how to repaint your exterior plastics.

Oh my god. The only way clearcoat can fail and peel off is high pressure water guns too close to the paint or buffing too deeply.

There is nothing but adding more paint and clear that you can do to the peeled sections but a sealant applied a couple times would bond and cure and become part of the paint and as such can prevent sun, water and other contaminants from doing damage

Check the doco for trim painting

Thanks for that lads.

I'll try and get some clear-coat sealer or something
for the door, as suggested.
The windscreen trim, however, is metal not plastic.
I gather that the same paint type mentioned in the
"plastics" doco would suit.

Cheers.

Hii Matt,
Thanks for all the tips. question for you though.

If a car has aftermarket tint on the windows, is ok to use the clay on these windows? or should it only be used on the out side.

cheers
Warren

Forgot to ask with the last post, you talk about wheel sealers, can you name any of the shelf brands. I looked today for some but all I could find was wheel cleaners, are these the same thing?

I sealed up the peeling clear-coat with 3 new coats.
A bit rough, but hopefully it will hold.
The cheap option at $7.95 for the spray paint
which is an acrylic clear-coat

 

 

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#1 - the tint is on the inside glass and the only chance of contamination of fallout , acid rain etc is if your driving with the window all the way down alot

Yes you should be able to clay the tint but I would use absolutely no pressure and use a quality lube such as Clearkote Quik shine which is a tint polish or maybe plexus
I haven't tried plexus as a lube on tinted glass and none of our families cars have tint

Then once clayed, protect it with plexus plastic polish

#2 - NO - there are no auto parts stores, supermarkets, department stores or garages that sell wheel sealants and they are not the same as wheel cleaners. sealants have no cleaning agents
The poorboys one is available through an online shop however you can use any paint sealant on the wheels for maximum protection
I recommend klasse sealant glaze, applied in thin coats and left to bond and cure for a couple hours at least
Then wipe off with microfibre cloth or terry towel

You can also spray it on to save the elbow grease
Poorboys wheel sealant and others are available from online stores only

Do not use wheel cleaners of any kind on sealant coated wheels

Thanks Matt. Good advice.

Now some feedback for you. My girlfriend brought home her new car last week, Hyundai Sonata. Black, with 17" alloys. Now this car is very smart looking and she wants to lookafter it. I showed her this thread. We went out and brought the Mcguires range of washes, sealers, waxs, clay the mits,pads, and microfibre towels etc. We cleaned, sealed and waxed as you advised in earlier posts and 1 week old her car looks better than new. Its amazing, the color being black now looks so deep you could dive right in. Thanks again Matt, my car is beyond hope,( the exterior) but hers is worth looking after.

That's fantastic, if more people did what you have, the better the environment and australia's cars would be
When you are ready to take the hyundai to the next level of car care, contact me and I'll let you know what I recommend

I would also like to take the opportunity to personally thank Mitchell (TOOL) and an AFF member from WA for purchasing some of the world class products that I sell and use on my own car.
They have never meet me in person or really know me from a bar of soap prior to purchasing but still chose to order and payed amount directly into my account before receiving the goods
A big gamble

I am sure that mitchell is very happy with his car's appearance now after receiving the products exactly when I said they would arrive and the car will only get better as time goes by
He has sent me before and after pics of it and no doubt the car has improved

Thankyou guys

If anyone is interested, I have a washing and claying tech sheet (update on method's shown and discussed at the first clinic I did)
Can send it to you as attachment in an email

Remember - the extra time it may take to do some detailing jobs using the techniques I have mentioned here, is well worth it
The less you marr the surface, the less times you have to clean, polish or remove paint and this means your car's paintwork clearcoat clarity will stay at optimum level.

Door Seals

Brand new cars sadly feature brown or even white and chalky rubber seals
Over time any car's door seals can dry up and crack, go brown or oxidise
To remedy this, especially with severly faded ones, you need strong cleaners and a long lasting protectant

Seals should feel grippy, not smooth or slick
The best cleaners I know of are Klasse VLRP, Vanilla, red and yellow mooses and mothers
Step 1 - remove oxidation and restore color

Use a foam pad or cotton cloth and rub vigourously
You will notice alot of black residue on the cloth - that is the oxidation
Continue until the seals are a matte black
Then to make them supple again, I like to use autoglym bodyshop 07B rubber cleaner
It's one of the best products in the world

Use a cotton cloth and use two fingers or more and rub in well
Let it dwell for a few minutes and then wipe clean
Now if you want to keep them matte or satin finish, Klasse VLRP is the longest lasting protectant I have found and has a matte finish

Einszett gummipledge is a roll on type product that cleans and protects and will provide a satin to low gloss
By now your seals will be black, supple, grippy and to the desired shine
Some of us car nuts like extremely glossy, jet black rubbers, that's me for sure

Use any tyre gel on them to really make them seals glisten
Meguiars, Sonus, Wolfgang, Detailers Pride are all great for this purpose
They will stay supple and glossy for a long time with only occasional need for re application
Fortunately you will only need to do the last step, no more need to do all the steps again

If the seals on your brand new car are white or dull brown and very chalky, use prepsol on them and wipe them down to remove it

Mothers preserves protectant , duration and back to black are also good but full gloss and durability may not be as good

Never use silicone and solvent based tire shine spray's, either aerosol or liquid as these will attract dust and dry rot the seals
If you want a really good, easily available cheap alternative, unscented baby oil at no more than four dollars is perfect