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Setting Up Driving Lights 

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:55 am 
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yea, its a relay, the numbers correspond to the pins on the relay, you'll find the relay will either have it's diagram and pin layout on the side or underneath with the pins

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 12:57 pm 
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Ok I got the relay and the wire from Autobarn today. Got to wait til the morning cuz my parts from Ford didnt arrive today. 30$ for the bezel and the switch inc GST.

All I need is an explanation of the wires going into the switch please I think I understand the rest.

Tell me if this is right (only got one relay).

-1 wire from the lights earths and 1 goes to 87 on the relay.
-1 wire from the second light earths and the other one goes to (85?)
-Earth line from relay number 86.


Do I need a fuse or not to run it from the switch, remembering I want to control whether or not the lightrs are on or off.

Thanks all.
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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:17 pm 
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Quote:
1 wire from the lights earths and 1 goes to 87 on the relay.
-1 wire from the second light earths and the other one goes to (85?)
-Earth line from relay number 86.


I think your mixed up.

87 is for the power to your lights (some relays there are 2 x 87s)

30 is to connect a high current power feed

85 is for the signal wire from high beam curcuit (you should put an additional switch in here so you can turn off driving lights without turning off high beam)

86 is for earth (85 & 86 can be reversed)

How the relay works
By completing the curcuit between 85 and 86 a switch inside the relay will complete the curcuit between 30 and 87

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 2:41 pm 
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madmax wrote:
Quote:
1 wire from the lights earths and 1 goes to 87 on the relay.
-1 wire from the second light earths and the other one goes to (85?)
-Earth line from relay number 86.


I think your mixed up.

87 is for the power to your lights (some relays there are 2 x 87s)

30 is to connect a high current power feed

85 is for the signal wire from high beam curcuit (you should put an additional switch in here so you can turn off driving lights without turning off high beam)

86 is for earth (85 & 86 can be reversed)

How the relay works
By completing the curcuit between 85 and 86 a switch inside the relay will complete the curcuit between 30 and 87


Exactly what i was saying! Just I was sleepy and didnt explain myself. Basically, the others were options.

For your setup follow these instructions

Splice a wire into the green and orange wire from behind the headlight, and run it to pin number 85 on the back of the relay. Its probably a good idea to put a fuse in this wire, but it isnt "needed"
Run a wire from pin 86, to the black wire on the back of the switch.
Run a wire from the green and white striped wire on the back of the switch to an earth on the body

This sets up the switch part of the really.

Then run a wire from the positive terminal on the battery, to pin number thrirty on the relay, preferablly with a fuse, but they arent needed :) Dodgy dodgy but
Then run a wire from pin 87 to the spotlight power lead, and make sure the spotlight gets earthed to metal somewhere. If you have a metal bracket attatched to the body of the car, this might do, but otherwise, just run a wire to the chassis somewhere.

Insert any fuses if used, and try it out. It should work fpr you :P

If you need any more help, and use msn, feel free to add me on iamsqueak@hotmail.com

Oh, and about the relays. Some relays come with four terminals, some five, and some six. They all work on the same principle, and get wired up the same, they just have some extra things. Five pin relays either have two terminals (if you had two thermofans to run off the same relay for instance) and some have a normally open, and a normally closed. This could be used for a basic high low beam circuit in a car. when it recieves a trigger, the high beam work, but if thats stopped, low beam comes on. Again, add me to msn if you wish, or spam my PM box :twisted:

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:10 pm 
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Once again thanks heaps for the in depth detail Andrew.

My mate and I are installuing them after work tomorrow arvo (assuming Ford actually orders my parts today) so I will post with photos tomorrow.

Thanks all folks.
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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:25 pm 
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Hey sorry about the previous post it was the wrong one and too big, will get a mod to delete post.

Here is another pic, smaller in scale.

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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:35 pm 
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I thought the switch looked different! My instructions were for an EB series one, not EF. Therefore the wire colours are all different. You should be able to figure it out easily enough with a multimeter. PM me if you need help, but you should be fine 8-)

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:08 am 
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Yeah cuz I went to go for it today but couldnt even find the green and orange headlight wire.

So whats the differnce betwqeen adn EB and EF? I assume the wires running to the relay are all the same and s**t so if I could get the EF version from anyone thanks.
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Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:18 am 
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If you wont see how the finished product looks on an EL. Click on to the link in my Sig and go half way down the page to see them fullly installed :D

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 12:05 pm 
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Did you do them yourself?
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 Post subject: getting through the firewall?
Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:15 pm 
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Hey guys, i was just taking a read over everything you all wrote, me being a young ford boy, i havent got a clue in ANY of this, i bought myself some washer neons a few weeks ago, iv installed them on the hood, but havent got a clue how to do the electrical bits, a work mate said if i could get some wires through my firewall, then he could fit a switch for me, but i cant be bothered paying some auto electritian to do that, so how do i get the wires through the firewall? i own a 97 ford falcon GLI, and that firewall is sealed up REAL good!

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:40 pm 
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not meaning to confuse the issue any futher, but if the lights are sizeable (both physically and wattage) you may want to consider a dual channel relay which basically has one fuse per light. this will allow you to pass more current through the relay to your lights (but only if your wiring is able to handle higher amps)

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:10 am 
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Ive got two 100W hella 140's on the front of mine, with a 30 amp fuse I think? And i dont have any problem with those :)

So it most likely wont be necessary. Shouldnt be needed as I dont think youre allowed anything higher than 100W. You can see the lights in my sig, on a custom bracket :)

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:45 am 
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Yeah the lights are legal.

I was thinking about this on my way home from work a few hours ago. Why would I need to tap into the headlight wire? If I want complete control of them which is the aim then I can just run them straight to the switch cant I?

Now all I need to do is get the switch right and figure out which cable runs to what part of the switch. Any ideas?
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Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:54 am 
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the idea being that driving lights are legally only allowed to be on when high beam is on, and when on low beam, all driving/spot lights must be off, the only exception being foglights

 

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