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| braidy |
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Hi guys.
I want to put a switch in which kills all my power in case of an emergency. I thought about using a relay, but then realized that wouldn't work. Does anyone have any ideas about a switch / breaker that can handle the current and still looks half respectable? Cheers! Braiden.
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| smiley235 |
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what do u mean by emergency. Like do you want to beable to switch off the power manually? A switch in series with the main power cable (capable of holding the total amp load) could be used.
_________________ 178.3 rwkw
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| EBGizmo |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GiIVze2Tac
Good to about 500kv or so... May need to go somewhere other than Jaycar for a jiffy box to suit, though.
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| braidy |
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smiley235 wrote: what do u mean by emergency. Like do you want to beable to switch off the power manually? A switch in series with the main power cable (capable of holding the total amp load) could be used.
Yeah, thats what I mean. Like, a switch I can put inline with the power line which when flicked, turns off the power. In case a fire starts or something, to stop the sparking. I understand how to wire it, but I don't know if I can get a switch big enough.
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| BuNtEr |
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braidy wrote: smiley235 wrote: what do u mean by emergency. Like do you want to beable to switch off the power manually? A switch in series with the main power cable (capable of holding the total amp load) could be used. Yeah, thats what I mean. Like, a switch I can put inline with the power line which when flicked, turns off the power. In case a fire starts or something, to stop the sparking. I understand how to wire it, but I don't know if I can get a switch big enough. the same ones they use on fender benders at parramatta raceway, its a big red button when you hit it it kills all power, i havent see who sells them at that would be a great idea.
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| EBGizmo |
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If you want to go something industrial, try a place called RS Components.
http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/r ... &Nr=avl:au They aren't exactly cheap though, and most of the switches are more suited to turning off the control side of the circuit, not the power side. If you can get a mechanical switch that will handle the current of your starter motor and alternator load safely, an electrical actuator could be easily made to allow a smaller switch to move the larger one to the open position.
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| braidy |
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Sounds like what I want. Anyone got any ideas where to get one?
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| 66 coupe |
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| braidy |
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66 coupe wrote:
Oh, Well, that would do!
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| Krytox |
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Wire it up properly!
They're great for security. But remember in case of an emergency where you might not be able to shut the car off, the alternator will keep it going. Not so needed on a road car, but when i was helping out a rally car auto elec, the numbers of photos and bad wiring he showed me was amazing.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| braidy |
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Krytox wrote: Wire it up properly!
They're great for security. But remember in case of an emergency where you might not be able to shut the car off, the alternator will keep it going. Not so needed on a road car, but when i was helping out a rally car auto elec, the numbers of photos and bad wiring he showed me was amazing. I would wire the switch inline with the positive coming from the battery before everythig so killing that would kill power to everything, which would case the engine to stop. Only problem is I would like to put the switch in the boot, which means running cable to the boot and back, which makes me worry about current loss. Will there be an issue?
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| braidy |
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Ew. Excuse my spelling, my other arm is in a sling, and I am trying to type fast. lol.
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| xler8 |
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U could always fit the Battery in the boot as well. It'll save running 2 lots of cable. I'm in the process of routing 12mm cable thru left centre of car, from starter motor to boot. I'm also installing a dual battery type isolation switch in boot. I figure that either the key or a fistful of wires from under the bonnet will shut down the engine in an emergency. After that the iso switch should work fine to kill sparks. It'd be a good idea to make sure no-one isolates battery while engine is running tho. As krytox says, the motor will keep going. Good chance of blowing diodes in alternator as well. U could put a relay to ignition if u were keen, switched by iso.
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| braidy |
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xler8 wrote: U could always fit the Battery in the boot as well. It'll save running 2 lots of cable. I'm in the process of routing 12mm cable thru left centre of car, from starter motor to boot. I'm also installing a dual battery type isolation switch in boot. I figure that either the key or a fistful of wires from under the bonnet will shut down the engine in an emergency. After that the iso switch should work fine to kill sparks. It'd be a good idea to make sure no-one isolates battery while engine is running tho. As krytox says, the motor will keep going. Good chance of blowing diodes in alternator as well. U could put a relay to ignition if u were keen, switched by iso.
What I want to do though is kill ALL the power completely, not just the engine. I could kill the engine easily, but I want to kill everything just in case I have a spark somewhere which starts a fire. I want to kill the spark to help it not progress any further.
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| 66 coupe |
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if a fire starts, killing the power really wont do much. The fire needs fuel, and turning the key off will stop that.
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