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| MoNGooSE |
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Has anyone ever changed the door locking mechanisms in the doors?
If so, did you use aftermarket kits? how hard was it?
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| Froudey |
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MoNGooSE wrote: Has anyone ever changed the door locking mechanisms in the doors? If so, did you use aftermarket kits? how hard was it? there once was a doco related to converting eb door trims to el door trims etc and in that doco there was a mini doco related to changing the motors, you drill out the ford pop rivet screw thingys simply replace the motors.
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| MoNGooSE |
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sounds nice and easy. You reckon it'd be that simple with aftermarket kits? Those ones you get from Supercrap and other places for $20?
Autobarn want $200 to install them......... lol
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| frankieh |
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My EA has 2 aftermarket motors and 2 factory jobs..
its easy on the EA cos it didn't have smartlock so I just wired the motors up to the alarm.. it isn't as easy with smartlock remote as the factory motors are slow moving jobs and very different from aftermarket jobs. The factory ones sell all the time on ebay for 20 bucks (a set in some cases) better to get them and save yourself the messing around.. drilling out the rivets is fun.. and don't forget to locktight the bolts you replace them with.. otherwise you'll find they come lose quickly. |
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| MoNGooSE |
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But that's just it..... I want fast ones. Not that slowwwwwww drooooone that annoys the hell out of me... I want UNLOCK and LOCK ... BOOM done...
I do have an aftermarket alarm if that helps...?
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| frankieh |
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I'm putting an aftermarket alarm in my car and I will use it's remotes not the smartlock remotes (aftermarket remotes are 2 way with a 5km range), so I can put any door motors in that I want... but if you want to keep the factory systems, you may have to be careful how you wire in after market motors... its' been a while so I'm not 100 %, but don't think they are compatible wire for wire... (and also the load timing)
get a cheapie alarm off the net.. install that and the aftermarket cl kit and sell the smartlock remotes.. |
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| MoNGooSE |
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I meant I already have an aftermarket alarm system installed. It has to be bypassing the smartlock system as my car locks and unlocks with the aftermarket remote.
It must be do-able as every company I've spoken to said they can do it for around $200... I just have to give it a go I guess. I can't hurt anything........... can I?
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| mbelfer |
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Hi, new to the forums today.
I believe I have a better idea than locktiting the screws/bolts to replace drilled out rivets, in both window regualtor motors and power lock actuators - threaded inserts. These are like a pop rivet that leaves a theaded portion in the hole after squeezing to lock the insert into the hole. The holes need a fraction enlarging to 9/32 and are then good for 3/16" inserts, (which is near as **** to #10-24) In fact I used 3/16W screws and washers, with #10-24 inserts in both my regulator motors and lock actuators. Cath is you need a tool for these brilliantly handy inserts, either a squeezer (similar appearance to a a pop rivet tool) or a hand-tool.........and a pulliing thingy for each size of insert, same thread to hold and pull it, lefthanded to go into the puller. My squeezer cost around $30 and has been very useful in a lot of contexts. This type of repair seems to take (for me anyway, two left hands) multiple removals and replacements, and having the thread inserted to the pice being R & R'd is a lot less fiddle in the confined interior of doors, and therefore a big time saver. I found all this out in the long (and ongoing) saga of fixing my EL window winding and door locking. Michael. (Still trying to figure why my lock cylinder spring is unsprung and not working) |
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| frankieh |
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Mongoose, you don't need to bypass smartlock.... you are still using the key are you not??? just not the factory remote...so you can fit your aftermarket alarm.. hook it to aftermarket CL and bobs your uncle...
mbelfer... good tip mate. |
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| MoNGooSE |
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The alarm is installed... already in... wired up... working... Wouldn't it already be hooked up the the central locking?
The only way I can see that it wouldn't be wired up directly to the central locking is if it it was a piggy-back alarm that worked with the factory alarm... Not instead of the factory alarm... Which it isn't, it's a full replacement alarm system. In this case... Couldn't I assume that all my central locking is currently hooked up to my aftermarket alarm and not smartlock? Or am I not understanding how it all works..............
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| frankieh |
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an upgrade alarm would leave you using the factory ford remotes... if you have different remotes and they still trigger the CDL.. then you probably have a interface module between your alarm and the factory CDL..
most alarms use negative trigger by default to run CDL.. two wires, negative down one will trigger down.. negative down the other triggers up... That isn't how fords work from memory so you need an interface module.. you however plan to put aftermarket CDL in.. in which case you can ditch the interface module and install the entire after market kit, loom, module and all.. and then just hook up the CDL outputs from the alarm to the inputs on the CDL loom. make sense? |
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| MoNGooSE |
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lol... nope!
But I haven't tried it yet. Things make more sense once I've had a fiddle......
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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| gogetta |
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CDL??? what the fug is that?
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| Krytox |
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Central Door Locking
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