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Doors will not lock 

 

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 Post subject: Doors will not lock
Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 2:01 am 
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I have just brought a XH XR6, and everytime you try to lock the doors they go down and come straight back up again and the indicators flash several times with the horn. Thought it was the plastic knobs which attach to the lock threw the inner door panels being to low , with them off it still does it. Have also tried leaving key on for 30 minutes but that did not work either.

 

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Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 2:02 am 
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will not lock by the key also

 

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Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 3:58 am 
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The only thing that I can think of is one of the door wires for central locking has been 'snagged'.

In saying this, when I did a full interior change, one of the bolts on the B pillar caught a wire for central locking and shorted it out, therefore everytime I tried to lock it I had to remove the fuse from the fuse box to lock it.

Its a big job to check it but might be worth looking at.

 

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Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 12:18 pm 
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This is an associated problem along with the cycling locks issue these cars experience from time to time. The system is indicating as if a door is not closed properly - so first things first, check both doors are closing properly. If the problem still occurs, you'll need to pull the covers off the doors, and disconnect the actuator connector of each door in turn, and see if the fault disappears, if it does, the actuator to that door may be the likely problem. You can either replace the actuator, or if the actuator is sluggish, dismantle it and relube with some electrical compatible grease, such as silicon grease. The associated locking mechanism may be at fault as well, so it may be worth checking out. Unfortunately with these types of issues, they are time consuming in tracking the fault down, and normally this is a process of elimination - you do have the advantage in that the fault is there always, rather than intermittent.

 

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Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 12:49 pm 
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I had this exact problem on my EF GLi. Check the earth on the doors. Where you close the door the little button that gets depressed isnt working (next to the hinge point of the door). Just a matter of unscrewing it and replacing it. If its not that then there is a break in the wire.

On mine the black spigot thingo was bent and not being depressed when the door shut. You might have the same problem.

 

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Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 1:44 pm 
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I had the same problem. Except mine fixed itself after about 5 days.
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Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 6:08 pm 
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I had the exact same problem on my EF XR6 2 weeks ago (as my door trims were off - i thought something was catching down below. Infact it was the actually botton on the door/window sill used to lock it. Check them, and see if they stick up too much or are too low - im my case, i just toke the botton off and realigned it back on properly and it was fine. Also do you hear a click when the doors lock then unloack? or it the normal motor sound for both lock and unlock?

 

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Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 11:39 pm 
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I had to take my door trims off to install my speakers (so had to take the lock buttons off) when i put the trims back on i noticed the lock buttons did not sit flush when locked. I found someone here had a solution, pull the white clip inside the button all the way out and push it back onto the lock shaft and presto, fixed! Now i cannot lock my car without it unlocking itsself several times. I dont use the keyfob anymore as the horn always goes off, so now i just keep using the key untill it does lock.

Could the cause be the button is restricting how far the lock goes down and in turn sends the lock back up? :?
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Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 12:21 am 
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I removed the door trims and diconnected each actuator one at a time, with the drivers door disconnected the passenger will lock by fob and open by key but will not lock by fob. The drivers side will not lock either way while connected. This had to do so i could go to the v8 on the weekend.

 

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Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 2:10 am 
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fordman351 wrote:
Could the cause be the button is restricting how far the lock goes down and in turn sends the lock back up? :?
Remove the buttons and test the locking - refit one by one, testing locking after each to see if an individual button is creating the problem.

 

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Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 1:37 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
fordman351 wrote:
Could the cause be the button is restricting how far the lock goes down and in turn sends the lock back up? :?
Remove the buttons and test the locking - refit one by one, testing locking after each to see if an individual button is creating the problem.


Derrr! :roll: Why didn't i think of that!? Ill give it a go and see what happens. :D
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Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 1:56 am 
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Overkill EF wrote:
I removed the door trims and diconnected each actuator one at a time, with the drivers door disconnected the passenger will lock by fob and open by key but will not lock by fob. The drivers side will not lock either way while connected. This had to do so i could go to the v8 on the weekend.
Before removing them, you could test the actuators to see if they work properly away from the car wiring by applying power through their respective disconnected plugs - reply back to the forum if you want to know what inputs are required for the 4 wires.
Overkill EF wrote:
the passenger will lock by fob and open by key but will not lock by fob.
So will it lock by fob or not??-please clarify.

 

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Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 2:43 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
This is an associated problem along with the cycling locks issue these cars experience from time to time. The system is indicating as if a door is not closed properly - so first things first, check both doors are closing properly. If the problem still occurs, you'll need to pull the covers off the doors, and disconnect the actuator connector of each door in turn, and see if the fault disappears, if it does, the actuator to that door may be the likely problem. You can either replace the actuator, or if the actuator is sluggish, dismantle it and relube with some electrical compatible grease, such as silicon grease. The associated locking mechanism may be at fault as well, so it may be worth checking out. Unfortunately with these types of issues, they are time consuming in tracking the fault down, and normally this is a process of elimination - you do have the advantage in that the fault is there always, rather than intermittent.


What he said is spot on. A new actuator if about $70 new and genuine. Until you replace it, find out which one it is and you can lock you car by turning the key in the f**k door towards the front.

If you have an alarm as well I find you can press the door lock button while turning the key. This is a piss off i know but at least the car locks and the alarm works. Its what I'm doing until I can get my hands on an actuator.

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 1:54 am 
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Had it looked at by auto sparky today and has fixed it. Thanks for your reply as to give me an idea of how to reduce the bill.

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 2:00 am 
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So i take it that it was a faulty actuator then???

 

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