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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:57 am 
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I've just been mucking around in Photoshop but I am still getting these stupid jagged lines and I can't be f**k doing them individually. I've tried increasing the image size to 600dpi, but still no go - even when I do everything and downsize it again to print.

Aside from all that, what is the go with printing onto a transparent film? A general printer can't print white obviously, so how can you have a white background without the light coming through, but have white numbers with the light coming through only them? It's confusing the s**t outta me the more I think about it!!!
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:23 pm 
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You must keep the 600dpi from scan through editing to printing, resizing it at any stage will lose quality.

You can't have a white background using transparencies, use paper instead.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:46 pm 
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so let me see if i got this right? your dial faces are just printed onto paper. Then what do you use as the backing? how are they screwed on i mean?

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:08 pm 
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Thanks data_mine. Are LEDs bright enough to shine through the paper?
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:11 pm 
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yep, paper. There's no need for screws or anything. The dials them selves siton a piece of transparent plastic, with a couple of 'locator stub' on it. Just cut appropriate holes in the paper, and it fits, holds in place, and then there's also a black plastic surround/cover to futher hold them in place.

 

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2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:28 pm 
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as for the LEDs, yes.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:51 pm 
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Quote:
yep, paper. There's no need for screws or anything. The dials them selves siton a piece of transparent plastic, with a couple of 'locator stub' on it. Just cut appropriate holes in the paper, and it fits, holds in place, and then there's also a black plastic surround/cover to futher hold them in place.


It would be good to actually see step by step assembly pics, as they say a picture speaks a million words.
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:06 pm 
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I kept getting the jagged lines aswell, so I just cheated and duplicated the dials, then blurred (either gaussian or regular, whichever looked better) them and moved them behind the original. It really helped out with blending them into the background, and did not exactly remove the jaggedness, but you can't see it on the final printed version.

The paper is screwed in just like the original dials, however I also used a bit of Blue tack to help hold it in. I was only doing a test run anyway.

I checked out the illumination with the regular lights, and you could see the dials, but they didn't really light up. I've ordered some LEDs through Repco, and will see what it's like with those in.

I originally printed out 3 layers on regular paper, (2 masking and 1 detail), but I think I'll go and get some transparancy paper for the second masking layer. (I needed the layers because the black was not dark enough to keep all the light out.)

I'll redo the dash tomorrow and see how it turns out.
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:57 pm 
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The light will have trouble getting through three layers of paper.

Be careful with the repco (NARVA?) LEDs. I don't know if they've changed them yet, but stock they're very dim, but it can be fixed by replacing the stock resistor with one of half the resistance.

 

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2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:59 pm 
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djmikey wrote:
Quote:
yep, paper. There's no need for screws or anything. The dials them selves siton a piece of transparent plastic, with a couple of 'locator stub' on it. Just cut appropriate holes in the paper, and it fits, holds in place, and then there's also a black plastic surround/cover to futher hold them in place.


It would be good to actually see step by step assembly pics, as they say a picture speaks a million words.


Sorta step-by-step doco here: http://www.fordmods.com/phpBB2/documents.php?doc=67

Specific to EF/EL clusters, but the principles will work for other models.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:13 pm 
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I Have Noticed that there is No High Beam in your Mask.

Did you accidently delete this or didn't it come up in your scan
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:38 pm 
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me?

EF/EL's have the highbeam ligth between the indicators up top away from the dials.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:29 pm 
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good work nivo now come and fix mine

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:54 pm 
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No Datamine not your Dash, Mniven's is missing the HighBeam
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Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 12:38 am 
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Yeah I know it's missing. I never use my high beams anyway. I could probably add it into the mask layer, so that unless it's lighted, it wont affect the look of the dials.
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