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ef auto position on dash 

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 1:46 am 
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An auto electrician could do it though right? And for the door hooking up bit does that just work with the button things that are already on each door? (that turn interior lamps on and off).

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 2:04 am 
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Till_Lind wrote:
An auto electrician could do it though right? And for the door hooking up bit does that just work with the button things that are already on each door? (that turn interior lamps on and off).
I would think so its the only sensor on teh doors.
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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 2:17 am 
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Ah, didn't really seem like "sensors", as such, to me. Just little button type things. But if they are all that are need for an NF Fairlane cluster to work fully functioning than huzzah!

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 3:45 am 
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twirqurky wrote:
Till_Lind wrote:
An auto electrician could do it though right? And for the door hooking up bit does that just work with the button things that are already on each door? (that turn interior lamps on and off).
I would think so its the only sensor on teh doors.


no - they don't work off those switches. you need to run new wiring to each door to get the cluster to work correctly.

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 10:10 am 
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Noooooooooooooooooooooo....

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:28 pm 
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You can use the existing switches, but you will need to run wiring to each of them....

Yeah I got the door flaps working about 2 weeks after I fitted the cluster...

I used a SPDT Relay for each door, that switched in a extra resistor in series, when the door was open....

Basically You need 2 resistors (180Ohm, 1200Ohm), 1 Diode, and a Relay for each door.....

When the door is closed, the resistance needs to be 180 Ohms (1 resistor only)
When the door is open, the resistance needs to be 1380 Ohms (Thats 1200Ohms plus 180 Ohms)

The relay needs power (Constant +12V) run to it (trigger), and the other trigger is triggered by the Ground from the door switch...

The Diode is used to stop the Ground signal from the other door switches reaching the relay.... (I.E. place the diode inline with the Door Open Line (Black/Blue stripe) with the Cathode going to the switch, BUT connect the Relay Trigger line in between the Door switch, and the Diode

The common of the relay is connected to ground, via the 180 Ohm resistor.

The N/O connection is connected to the Line going to the Cluster....
The N/C connection also goes to the cluster, but has the 1200Ohm resistor inline (Series).....

I drew up a diagram of how it all fits together, and was meaning to make a doco out of it all (Its the same thing for the EA-EL models), but I lost the schematic drawing for the thing.....

Ohhh, and all the above is coming from my very hazy memory, so Im not 100% sure if it is correct.. :?

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:33 pm 
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The boot Open line doesnt require any resistors, so its a simple matter of connecting the cluster directly up to the Boot Lamps Black/Blue Line....

The Fuel Flap warning Needs a Reed Switch, and a magnet... Your best bet is to go to a wrecker to obtain these from a Fairlane / LTD, as the Ford stuff mounts up very nicely, and is fuel resistant... (I.E. if you splash petrol on the thing, then its not going to wrot away, or disintegrate.....

It also looks very stock, and the fuel flap already has the mount for the magnet, as well as the screw hole, and the rubber grommet for the sensor...

Finally the Fuel flap warning has inbuilt resistors, which make wiring very painless...

 

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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:34 am 
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Happy wrote:
did you end up doing all the door switches . fuel flap switch etc Matti?


Can you just set them up so they say "closed" and not flash open all the time?
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:45 pm 
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fairlane loom... I must scour the wreckers to see what I can find.
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