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HEAD BOLT TENSIONING 

 

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 Post subject: HEAD BOLT TENSIONING
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:19 am 
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Hey all
I know there was a post on EF etc head bolt tensions (WITHOUT THE VERY INACURATE 90 DEGREE LAST STEP) but I searched all the technical documents and can't find it has anyone got the correct steps as in 40nm then ???????? PLEASE :!: :D :D

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:07 am 
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Funny Enough.
I bought head bolts for a EF and it said 40nm then 90 degrees on the instructions.
I do this
40 nm then 90nm
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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:13 am 
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It also depends on what gasket you are using...supposedly if you are using the AU gasket, you have to do 40nm and then 120 degrees or something because the gasket is thinner. Don't quote me on that...and if I am wrong, someone correct me.

phong =P~

EDIT: forgot to mention...I want to know too since I am going to work on my EL engine during chrissy break. :D

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:41 am 
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phongus wrote:
It also depends on what gasket you are using...supposedly if you are using the AU gasket, you have to do 40nm and then 120 degrees or something because the gasket is thinner. Don't quote me on that...and if I am wrong, someone correct me.

phong =P~

EDIT: forgot to mention...I want to know too since I am going to work on my EL engine during chrissy break. :D


That does sound right for the TTY on the AU
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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:45 am 
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Yes I plan to use the AU type gasket and I still need the right tension settings PLEASE :D :D :D

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:35 pm 
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AU Gasket is 30Nm + 120 degrees

Normal gasket is 40Nm + 90 degrees

JMM recommends - 1st stage: 40nm 2nd stage: 80nm 3rd stage: 110nm
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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:42 pm 
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I used:

Stage 1 40nm
Stage 2 80nm
Stage 3 110nm

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37956

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:58 pm 
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Thanks for that GUYS I like these settings as they can be repeated acurately.THANKS HEAPS :D :D :D :D :D :D

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:04 pm 
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:S...sorry to be a noob. but why is it in stages? Do you tighten all the head bolts up to 40nm first (stage 1?) and then tighten the bolts a further 80nm (stage 2?) and then final tighten of all bolts to 110nm (stage 3?). Does that mean the 90/120 degree tighten doesn't have to be done if done in stages?

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:15 pm 
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GTBob wrote:
Thanks for that GUYS I like these settings as they can be repeated acurately.THANKS HEAPS :D :D :D :D :D :D
When are you doing it Bob? I am due to change mine in the xmas new year period and would also like a definative answer to this question. Can you let me know how you go?

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:20 pm 
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phongus wrote:
:S...sorry to be a noob. but why is it in stages? Do you tighten all the head bolts up to 40nm first (stage 1?) and then tighten the bolts a further 80nm (stage 2?) and then final tighten of all bolts to 110nm (stage 3?). Does that mean the 90/120 degree tighten doesn't have to be done if done in stages?

phong =P~


Correct.

However some disagree with this setup, the 30nm+120 degree pretty much has perfect tension and even on EACH bolt, in theory 3 stage has varying bolt torque. think about it, you tighten one bolt up, it uses 12 threads. the Next bolt has to go up 12.5 threads to get the same result as the first one met its destination.


Either way, I prefered the 3 stage, Used it. And haven't had a problem.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:27 pm 
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The reason they suggest taking the bolts up to a low torque and then the 90º or 120º is to acheive more equal tensions on each bolt than using the torque wrench setting. As I read it the bolt and gasket manufacturers suggest that the frictional losses as the torque increases can vary considerably and consequently the tenson on the bolts varies . Hence the low torque to get the bolts seated and then the known amount of stretch and hence tension is applied to each bolt.
I went around after using the 90º method with the torque wrench. One of the rear bolts did require about 15% more torque to crack it so just maybe the people that make these things have some idea what they are doing (faulty gaskets aside).

Read about it.

Cheers,
C
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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 2:15 pm 
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Yep, been covered plenty of times previously(and then some):
a. Use the recommended settings of the gasket (not the head), AU MLS is 30Nm + 120 DEG (as already mentioned a few times)
b. Torque each bolt in sequence, then do same with the angle.

Torque, then angle is the best method, here's why:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44051
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42880

I tend to trust what these guys say - getting it wrong may not hurt now, but in a year or two if the gaskets failed or a bolt head has sheared, maybe a different story.

Another thing I found handy - use a white marker or similar, and stroke '/' each bolt head when it's torqued, then stroke each again when you do the angle (to produce an 'X').
If you don't mark them and get interupted or called away - guess who's in a spot of bother when they can't remember at which stage they were up to . . . :cry:

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 2:36 pm 
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I quite agree ALSO DON"T let interuptions stop a head tensioning session :!: :!: :!: :D

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 8:57 am 
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lol thats gotta be one of the most inaccurate way or torquing somethin, why don't they just have a set nominal torque, opposed to this degree bs

 

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