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| Gaz |
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ok guys..
you set the unit for face only.. turn the fan up.. set it for 20*C with no aircon... is air meant to come out of the dimister spots that blow onto the windscreen on the dash? ran a CC diagnostic and got no errors. also, whats it worth to get an aircon regassed? put mine on high for 10 mins and i wouldnt say the air coming out is exactly cold :\ i remember if you used to do that and hold ya hand to the vent your hand would get pretty damn cold. at the moment its only midly better than fan only 
_________________ 2007 Steel BF Ghia MKII V8 - 19" GTP's + Superlows |
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| uglybob |
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re-gas is around the $90-$100 mark. i tested mine last year with a thermostat - was coming out @ about 18oC from memory, on full blast. wasn't cold enough for me!
_________________ R.I.P. Scotty |
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| Timmeh |
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$100 to get air con regassed.
Air is only meant to go wherever the little icon on the screen tells you it is. If its on auto setting it picks where it wants to put the air to for maximum cooling of the car (or heating) depending on what temp you set. |
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| fordgt290 |
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air should be about 6 to 8 deg when a/c is working well. which is about 2 degs at the evaporator
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| Happy |
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6 to 8 seems a bit cold ... climate control only goes down to 16 degrees
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| Gaz |
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ok.. 100 bucks, think i can scrounge that up
now onto the pointing thing.. anyone who has got it, run outside and test it now
when mines on face it comes out about equal face and winscreen, if not more windscreen i think! however, a CC diag showed no faults 
guide me oh so smart ones
_________________ 2007 Steel BF Ghia MKII V8 - 19" GTP's + Superlows |
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| madmax |
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Happy wrote: 6 to 8 seems a bit cold ... climate control only goes down to 16 degrees
However to get the cabin down to 16 it would have to provide air that was much colder. On the same note high temp air out of my heater is 52deg, CC only goes up to 30.
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| philaddis |
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Sounds like you have a vacumn problem. Either in one of your lines or the door actuator for the windscreen is not closing.
_________________ ED XR8 Spri-mitatio-nt |
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| Gaz |
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hmm, one of the CC diag checks showed up with no errors..
driving home tonight i made sure, AC off, air set to face, fan about 5, there was definatly more air coming out the windscreen than the face. where exactly would i be looking for these vacumme lines?
_________________ 2007 Steel BF Ghia MKII V8 - 19" GTP's + Superlows |
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| fordzatmyplace |
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i think i have a similar problem with my NC. Its a vacume leak for sure. How are you meant to locate vacume leaks?
_________________ ^^^ What He Said
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| philaddis |
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The actuators close when vacumn is applied to them. I would say your most likely failure is the vac hose has split or borken. I think the hose to the windscreen actuator is the yellow hose and the actuator itself is at the very RHS of the airbox at the top on the back.
The bad news is that to properly fix this sort of thing, generally speaking, your airbox has to come out.......unless you are really lucky and the break is in the first 10cm's or so of hose. To make sure that this is the problem, at your vac solenoid, swap your windscreen hose over onto an outlet for a section you know is working ok. See if the problem still occurrs. This will isolate the problem to the vac hose and or actuator. Good luck.
_________________ ED XR8 Spri-mitatio-nt |
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| snap0964 |
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You can check your A/C by running it for about 5 - 10 mins max cool, high fan(1st engine start is good as the radiator hasn't heated up), visibly check the compressor clutch is engaged, and with the black plastic surround removed (the one that sits around the hood catch)have a feel of the condensor (sits in front of the radiator), it should feel warm/hot pretty much over the whole surface area - if it only feels warm maybe the top half or less, then that's a good indicator that there's been a loss of refrigerant. If you have a look at the sightglass on the receiver/dryer (cylinder like item sitting nearby), if there's a fair amount of bubbles flowing through, that's a good indicator for loss as well.
A system running properly should be pretty hot on the compressor output pipe to the condensor, condensor should be hot pretty much over it's whole surface, the pipes to the evaporator at the firewall should feel pretty cold. It's a rough test, but should give you an idea in case the heater box doors are playing silly buggers. If you do have a refrigerant loss, obviously there may be a leak, so it may add to the recharge cost.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| zk |
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fordgt290 wrote: air should be about 6 to 8 deg when a/c is working well. which is about 2 degs at the evaporator
mate has a TR magna (yeah i know, its not a ford), he got the system regassed over a year n a half ago. n he brought a lil thermometer on a wire, and stuffed it down the vent (fan speed 2 i think - non CC naturally  ) and it was reading 6 degrees... we got the car down to about 20 degrees inside while it was 35 outside...
*gets back in box*
_________________ Member Of "Team LWB"
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| madmax |
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I guess I was lucky to have mine leak at the heater tap. As the heater tap only gets vacuum when you select a cold temp, all through winter I never noticed a problem. However when summer came along air would switch to the screen every time I accelerated.
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| fairmax |
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Gaz wrote: also, whats it worth to get an aircon regassed? put mine on high for 10 mins and i wouldnt say the air coming out is exactly cold :\ i remember if you used to do that and hold ya hand to the vent your hand would get pretty damn cold. at the moment its only midly better than fan only This could be due to the fact that the resistor in the CC control unit in the dash is blocked cause this is used to sensor the temp in the cabin. i had tha same problem and i the couse of changing the filter behind the screen this is what i found, cleaned it and it was fine again.
_________________ ROTOR is ROTOR spelt backwards!!! |
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