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 Post subject: Vacuum Pump Concept
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:35 am 
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Guys I have the usual problem with the AC vents switching to the screen. However this only occurs when the I am both towing a load and going up a hill. It doesn't happen during winter or if the car is empty.

The idea is, would it be possible to connect up a EA cruise control vacuum pump to the vacuum lines for the heater controls, isolating them from the engine manifold? I guess the question would the come down to, does this pump provide enough vacuum?

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:37 am 
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sure it is possible.. but why bother?

unless u are towing heaps all the time it could be annoying.

some alts from diesel engines have vaccum pumps built onto the back of them be a nice neat way of installing 1 that way


or put in a vaccum tank :)

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:49 am 
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Maybe a check valve could be easier?? an example is the brake booster - the check valve stores a "resevoir of vacuum" meaning the brake assist still works enough to get the paddle mashed if the engine stalls.

I wouldnt think the vents need much vac to stay fixed on face/feet vents...

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 2:26 pm 
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Try a search. I've provided the reasons and fixes for this problem before. :D
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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 3:22 pm 
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Thanks for the suggestion guys.

Quote:
or put in a vaccum tank


They already have a tank, and I tried installing a second one to no effect.

Quote:
Maybe a check valve could be easier??


Also have a check valve installed, however it leaks back slightly. Haven't been able to find a better type that will fit in the line.

Quote:
Try a search
Yes I had a bit of a search, I just can't seem to find the right answers.
Besides I don't think I have a vacuum leak or a problem with the vacuum solenoids as the car will hold vacuum overnight. It just seems that when the throttle is fully open for a extended period the vacuum eventually runs out and the vents switch to the screen. As soon as I back off it will switch back to face.
I guess I'm being fussy but we do go camping quite a bit during the summer and this is usually when the problem rears its ugly head. I was just thinking that seperating the vent controls from the engine would be the best way to eliminate this once and for all.

 

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 Post subject: ??
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:51 pm 
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The last time I had this problem the non return valve had died, so all was well untill the pedal was down for a while. check this and the resovoir under the drivers side wing behind the plastic protector. You can test for leak by running the engine then turning off and leaving for a few hours, then listen carefully and move the vent switch u should hear it move. My vac is still good the next day.

 

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 Post subject: Re: ??
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:28 pm 
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falconea wrote:
The last time I had this problem the non return valve had died, so all was well untill the pedal was down for a while. check this and the resovoir under the drivers side wing behind the plastic protector. You can test for leak by running the engine then turning off and leaving for a few hours, then listen carefully and move the vent switch u should hear it move. My vac is still good the next day.


Where is this non return valve you are refering too?? As this sounds exactly like the problem I have. All is well until car is under load and throttle is open wide for extended period of time

The resevior is there as is an extra one.
No known leaks as I posted ealier the car holds vacuum over night as tested on vacuum gauge.

 

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 Post subject: Re: ??
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:33 pm 
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madmax wrote:
Where is this non return valve you are refering too?? As this sounds exactly like the problem I have. All is well until car is under load and throttle is open wide for extended period of time
The resevior is there as is an extra one.
No known leaks as I posted ealier the car holds vacuum over night as tested on vacuum gauge.
If you remove the washer bottle, you should find it amongst a bundle of vacuum connections - the VSV that feeds vacuum off to the BBM. The one way valve looks like a black barrel.

I'd say it may hold a vacuum seal, but may be possibly restricting vacuum flow from the reservoir to engine, so it never gets to reach full vacuum capacity because also of the demand from the heater box vaccy actuators. When you put the foot down, then the problem shows itself.
Adding another tank and valve won't help if the std valve is faulty.

My theory's crap, but I can't see it being much else - wouldn't hurt to swap it, as it seems to be a common fault.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:14 pm 
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Thanks for that I'll check it out and see if I can find it.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 1:51 pm 
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What is this?
Image

I found a blue and black one-way check valve in line with this thing. The check valve appears to be working, i can suck easily through one side but not at all through the other.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 1:56 pm 
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the above is the BBM vacuum solenoid.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:07 pm 
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It is connected to the vacuum hose that goes directly into the dash for the heater controls. Does this mean that the hoses are wrong? It may explain why with the BBM open the heater controls are being starved of vacuum.

 

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 Post subject: ???
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:29 pm 
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The BBM is held by vacuum all the time except when you reach 3400rpm when the black barrel solenoid switches of the vac and the BBM goes to short runners. It is odd that the system keeps vac for a long time but fails under high throttle, this usually indicates a leak and thus no vac reserve.
Check all pipes on the rear of the BBM for tight fit and for any splits as the problem could be that its not getting enough vac in the reserve for it to hold on.
Sorry I cant throw any more light on the subject. I will have a think and let you know if I come up with anything useful.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:45 pm 
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Test the valve with a vacuum tester it should hold vacuum overnight without falling also use a vacuum tester on the line going into the car from the valve. The usual problem is the valve or a leak at the heater tap vacuum fitting which has a habit of coming off or splitting. :roll:

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:50 pm 
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The vaccy line should come from an engine vacuum point through that check valve, goes to a tee piece which branches off to the vacuum tank and to the vaccy pipe junction block on the heaterbox, then to the vacuum solenoid block. The hoses will be black, but so is the heater hose valve vaccy hose as well, so don't get them mixed up.

 

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