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Voltage issues 

 

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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 3:17 pm 
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Thanks for the tips.

The car hasnt run in 6 months. Ive just finished putting a BA motor in it and its been at dynowog's workshop for the last few weeks having an ECU done. It should be ready soon so Ill be able to check it all.

When it was running previously with the old motor everything would dim as well. If the headlights were on and I flicked on the indicator the voltage would drop as the indicator flashed.
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 3:49 pm 
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Ride: EF wagon & EF fairmont wagon & M

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thats the go! just trace around the place with a meter looking for voltage drops.
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:09 am 
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Make sure you have a good earth, most forget the earth and only look for the +ve side. A bad earth will give you the same problems.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:19 am 
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All the earths have been checked and rechecked and extra ones added.

Im pretty sure its going to be the dash loom that is causing all the problems. Once I get it back it should be an easy fix, even if I have to change all the looms its still not a huge job.

I might even put air con back in while the dash is out.
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:29 am 
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Cool, while you have the dash out . Think about the A/c rad and heater core. If you have any problems with the heater etc now is the time to check them + all vacuum operation . Its a bugger to put it all back to find that a vacuum arm is broken or the heater core is blocked.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:36 am 
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Will do.

I replaced the heater core a month or so ago when I had the dash out but I ripped out all the vac lines to neaten up the engine bay.

Ive had second thoughts about doing this ever since and I think I want to repalce it all so the heater and air con works like it should. Ill have to reroute the air con lines at the front of the car and do something about the lines coming from the compressor because the BA one is different but it shouldnt be too hard.
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:40 am 
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OK I just though to remind you just in case.
How hard to do the BA engine mod?

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:45 am 
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Easier than everyone thinks IMO.

Bolt EA engine mounts onto it and it drops straight in. Adjust the front crossmember and bonnet ribs for clearance and its done.

Then get an ECU to make it run.

Did you need to change your steering column and K frame to fit the EL dash?

Do you have a working handbrake now?
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:54 am 
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Still running the same steering column. Do you meam the steering column mounting frame and pedal box and not the K frame which if I remember correctly is the frame across the underside of the engine for front suspension.
The hand brake is only a token h/b and I tighten it up so it drags and works well enough for rego and then loosen it off again. Rego only requires that the h/b shows some retarding of vehicle, it does not it is not required as an emergency brake as the vehicle has dual breaking system. Thats according to the RTA book.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:05 am 
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I thought I read somewhere that the steering column needs to be changed to fit the EL dash. Then you need the EL K frame to fit the EL Steering column. Did you just change the mounts for the steering column and leave the EA stuff in there?

A mate is interested in doing the dash conversion. Its too hard basket for me. I dont really care what everything looks like as long as it works and goes fast.
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:34 am 
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From what I remember the steering column was no problem, I certainly did not change it. There is more trouble making brackets for the dash to bolt too on each end and the center one under the radio area. Nothing that a little time and ingenuity wont fix.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:40 am 
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Ah okay, thanks for that.

Ill let him know.

I might try and find a decent, cheap EA to get the parts for mine.

Then I know everything will work as it should at least.
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:41 am 
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good luck

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:47 am 
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Good idea about reinstalling heater/air con as they are needed if this car is to be roadworthy and registerable how hard was it to get an engineers certificate for the change of motor etc or is it a race/drag car only :shock: :D

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:02 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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The heater still works as the car sits, but it only blows air out of the windscreen vent. I think this is fine for a RWC.

It wouldnt pass one with the BA motor anyway though.

An engineer wont look at the car until I pass a $2500 emission test in Vic. I think Ill pass.

The car will rarely get driven and I have 3rd party insurance so Im not hurting anyone.

I think I covered 2000kms in the 3 months I owned my last fast car. That was mainly driving to the track and dyno and back. This time I have a 4wd to tow me there :D

Ive got a motorbike and a Maverick on LPG so the EA definately wont be a daily driven type deal. The Maverick is really only a toy and tow car as well. I think Ive done 8000kms in the last year with it going to the bush and back and towing the occasional car.
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