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LPG engine ware 

 

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 Post subject: LPG engine ware
Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:10 pm 
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just wondering (sorry if this has been done before, no doubt it hasnt" but LPG is worse for your engine right. How much life does it take out of your engine? my mates EA wagon only got 50,000 ish kms then it crapped itself. My fairlane has done more then that on LPG but i dont know if i should stop using it as much. Are there any tell tale signs of engine ware or will something just die one day?

my car has now done 295,000 km and performs fine (alot of them are country km's)

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:46 pm 
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It should last longer if it is tuned right, LPG is a 'cleaner' fuel and doesnt contaminate the oil anywhere near as much.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:17 am 
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first off. how many kml did the EA do in total? what was the servicing like? and what actually went wrong with it?

second, LPG is a dry fuel, it's harder on things like valves, seats and guides.
the rest of your engine will thank you for it,

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:43 pm 
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look at all the million KLM taxis

Mine has over 363000klm no issues from the LPG.
Main problems have been brakes, radiator/surge tank. everything else has been minor.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 12:40 pm 
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ohhh nice..umm the k's on the EA were 260,000 til about 310ishhh... he said his car was running ok for about 45,000k's on lfg but then just nakkered everything,,,,wether or not he caused the ankkering due to hoon drivin i dont know.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:58 pm 
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The only negative I has seen with 10+ years of LPG on my car has been the rusting out exhaust.
The plus is that I have saved that much over that time that I could probably fit a gold plated one and still come out in front :>)

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:44 am 
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LPG is a cleaner fuel, but it does have drawbacks. Because it is a dry fuel, it can cause problems with valves, as they are not "lubricated" by the fuel. Things like valve seat recession can happen, even with hardened valve seats. It can also wear guides at a prodigious rate. Bronze guides are a good solution to this problem. It also has a tendency to wear big end bearings, as it is high in nitrates. This can be negated a lot by regular oil changes using a good quality lpg specific oil.

Because it is a cleaner burning fuel, the oil seems to stay "cleaner" visually for a longer time. Don't be fooled by this, keep up the regular changes.

Despite this, lpg is a good fuel. I had a 351 clevo built specifically for lpg, (head design, valve design, cam, bronze guides, modified combustion chambers cam etc.,) and did over 200,000 without a problem, and the engine was still "good as new" when I sold the car.

As with any engine/vehicle, preventative maintenance is the key.

Here endth the lesson :lol: :lol: :wink:
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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:43 pm 
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Why does everyone still think petrol lubricates? It's a solvent, it washes oil off!

The valve seat wear (recession) is due to the extra heat, primarily on the exhaust valve and seat. This is more of a problem for pre-1986 engines without hardened valve seats (all unleaded engines have hardened valve seats because it was the lead in 'Super' that used to protect them).

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:59 pm 
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sam12h wrote:
Why does everyone still think petrol lubricates? It's a solvent, it washes oil off!

The valve seat wear (recession) is due to the extra heat, primarily on the exhaust valve and seat. This is more of a problem for pre-1986 engines without hardened valve seats (all unleaded engines have hardened valve seats because it was the lead in 'Super' that used to protect them).


While I was reading through this thread I was thinking how I could word it right - but you most certainly beat me to it. Spot on!

It's also worth noting the condition of your oil at the end of 5,000 or 10,000km of LPG use. It comes out looking and smelling just like it did when it went in!

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:44 pm 
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just to add more fuel to the fire, if you believe the suppliers, LPG oils have different inhibitors in them as LPG produces different corrosives in them when burnt. I don't know if true but it sounds fair. also oil can still look ok and have a lot of crap in it. thats why you're meant to change it regularly . i work in the mining industry and we do oil sampling. it's supprising what that can throw at you for approx $30-40. very scary sometimes
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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:31 am 
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well i am surprised when you say petrol dosnt lubricate :P im so used to people saying it runs wetter and therefore lubes....well you learn something everyday

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:03 am 
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My ED has clocked up 261k's. Been on gas since 1997 when it had done around 80k's I think. Seems to be running ok, the main casualties while I've had it have been airboxes (fixed by removing the clips and replacing with occy straps :D) and a few coolant leaks from the converter.

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:18 am 
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For the airbox;

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-EA-EB-EF-AU ... 240%3A1318

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:35 pm 
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sam12h wrote:


Just bought some of them, they arrived today. They look good but the springs are pretty stiff. I'm wondering if a backfire will lift the springs or just shatter the airbox as usual.

 

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 Post subject: Re: LPG engine ware
Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:51 am 
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Don't know, never actually shattered an airbox. Mine would just destroy the standard clips. Surely just using two on opposing corners would be better than the occy straps though (unless it's the impact of hitting the bonnet that's breaking the airbox lid?).

Another solution is to cut a modest hole in the plastic or rubber somewhere between the filter and the mixer, then put gaffa tape over the hole to stop dust and debris entering the engine. The tape acts as a fuse and blows out, reducing (but not eliminating) the force that would have damaged the airbox. Pull over at the first safe spot, replace the tape and keep driving (in theory, although some people have had backfires so big the hole under the tape didn't vent enough pressure).

 

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