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Straight LPG question 

 

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 Post subject: Straight LPG question
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:30 am 
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Hi all,

Got an EL that is on LPG and thinking of removing the petrol side of things completely. Can I just welch plug up the inlet holes of the injectors and remove the fuel rail?

I know that I'd have to remove power to the fuel pump would this cause any problems with the ECU.

And what else could I remove if I did this?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Straight LPG question
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:32 am 
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EL Grrrr wrote:
Hi all,

Got an EL that is on LPG and thinking of removing the petrol side of things completely. Can I just welch plug up the inlet holes of the injectors and remove the fuel rail?

I know that I'd have to remove power to the fuel pump would this cause any problems with the ECU.

And what else could I remove if I did this?


you can do as you suggested,
cars running on straight LPG can also remove the carbon canister.
all other polution gear has to stay.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:58 am 
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Cool now do I need any connections on the plug that I'm going to disconnect from the fuel pump?

And is it possible to remove the injector wiring ... or do I have to leave the injector caps on?

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:44 am 
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Just pull the fuel tank (with pump inside) and leave the wires hanging. It will not affect the ECU. It will not throw up codes. This is what I have done. I just left the injectors there. No real reason to remove them unless you want to sell them or use them on something else. Hook your LPG in tank gauge direct to the fuel pump/petrol sender loom to get the standard gauge working. If you only have a 0-90 Ohm sensor then a full tank will only read about 3/4 full. Put a 10 or so Ohm resistor in series to get better use of the low level warning.

Should be apples.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 11:05 am 
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MacGyver wrote:
Hook your LPG in tank gauge direct to the fuel pump/petrol sender loom to get the standard gauge working. If you only have a 0-90 Ohm sensor then a full tank will only read about 3/4 full. Put a 10 or so Ohm resistor in series to get better use of the low level warning.

Should be apples.

cheers
Scott


I was wondering why my trip comp wasn't reading the LPG sender properly and saying it always has 500km until empty, thanks for the info.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:51 pm 
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You can also use an AU dedicated gas manifold. It will have the injector holes already blocked.
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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:16 pm 
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Thanks for the info on this, so I should be able to cut all the injector parts off the loom and it will run?

I've got the injector rail off at the moment sorting out some issues with wiring for auto to manual conversion and thought well we won't be ever running petrol on this again so why not get rid of the injector wiring.

So to be clear I should be able to just cut the wiring off to the injectors and tape the ends over?

I like the idea of using fuel gauge, thanks for the info on that.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:44 pm 
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By cutting the injectors you may throw errors to the ECU, but it will still run fine. If that happens just hook up resistors that have a similar impedance to the injectors and you should be right.

If you want the fuel gauge to read 100% you will need to get a 10-176 Ohm sender.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 7:55 pm 
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Thanks MacGyver for the info. Do you know what resistors I'd need to put in?
And where I'd place them.

If I can get all this info together with some pics. I'll make a PDF file so others can follow the procedure.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:22 pm 
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Ok I've been looking at the manual, and according to it (to be verified by human inspection) there are only 3 colored wires involved with the injectors.

Red which goes Number 57 pin on ECU via injectors 1,2,3,4,6 onto the fuel relay and ECU power relay switches one assumes this is power?

Brown which runs from Number 58 pin on ECU via the injectors 1,3,5

Green which runs from the Number 59 pin on ECU via injectors 1,4,6

Brown and Green must be negative.

I'm guessing here but the ?K resistor should go between the Red and Brown for injectors 1,3,5
Red and Green for injectors 2,4,6

Is that correct? And what size resistor would it take to trick the ECU?

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:54 pm 
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Each injector has an optimal resistance of 16.2 Ohms +-0.8. If you just cut the plug off and splice a 16 Ohm resistor in it's place for each injector you are all set. Then just tape the left over parts to the main loom and it will be like the injectors disappeared.

Or just don't worry about it and just tape them away. I just have my injector wires disconnected and get no codes. But that could be because I am running a Tickford LPG ECU stuck in LPG only mode so it doesn't look at the injectors.

Cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:03 pm 
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i just disconnected my injector plugs and it works fine.
I wonder what else it affects? it seems ok.

I used 14mm welch plugs, i got them from repco for about $14.
it looks much neater, i also re-routed the wiring under the intake manifold.

Im thinking about trying an xe electronic distributor in mine to change the ignition timing for some more power & economy.

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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:38 pm 
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Great I think I'll put the 16K resistors in.

So I could just pick up the Brown and Green wires before the injectors, splice them and put a single resistor there.

Do I put the resistor between that spliced cable and the Red cable?

Luke that looks good and I'm certain running the loom under is the best, the damn things are so bloody tight.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:03 am 
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i've got a bbm manifold that has the injector holes already tapped ready for common brass plugs (1/4 or 3/8 bsp from memory).

Let me know if you're interested

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:26 am 
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Yeah so where ever you cut a plug, put a resistor. Doesn't matter which way they go.

cheers
Scott

 

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