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BA XR6 + XR6T turbo setup. Questions. 

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 2:19 pm 
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the non turbo ecu will be ok, all u need is an after market boost controler and the capa edit, as the non turbo computer has no boost controler.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:49 pm 
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griffo161 wrote:
Sly the rods in the Turbo motor ARE VERY MUCH different then the N/A motor.

No they aren't. The XR6T motor uses the same rods as the NA motor. You and munch are both misled. The BA rods are stronger again than the AU ones, which are reputed to be strong enough to take 10psi of boost all day, every day.

SteadyED almost has it right, just back-to-front. The F6 (Typhoon) motor uses the Egas rods... the Egas engine came first. There is no shortage of tuned XR6T's putting out more than a stock F6 however. The stronger rods are there to give a level of durability that Ford can live with.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:04 pm 
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griffo161 wrote:
Nar its the XR6Turbo motor that they share the same rods with.

Your mate would be better off as everyone else is saying buying a long turbo motor

You are also wrong about the rods. The Egas rods are used in the F6 (Typhoon) motors but the XR6T rods are the same as NA.

And you wouldn't want just a long motor. You would need a complete motor, engine bay looms and ECU... wreckers call it a "conversion". It's vastly different to a long motor. I don't have a definition of a "long motor" handy, but IIRC it doesn't include manifolds. If so, it definitely won't include a turbo.

But I do agree that this would be a better option than trying to build a factory-spec turbo motor b y just changing parts.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:33 pm 
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post may 06 all rods are typhoon.

either way you should get a set of billet internals and do it properly. :idea:

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:51 pm 
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bfhoon wrote:
post may 06 all rods are typhoon.

either way you should get a set of billet internals and do it properly. :idea:


? so does that mean my xt has typhoon rods?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:18 am 
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Well, after starting the conversion about 8pm last night, we now have the car running at 11pm tonight.

However..

We're running the NA ECU and map sensor. I have been told that the NA map sensor can't handle the boost. I struggle to believe this, seeing as the NA sensor is rated at 1.5bar (22psi roughly) and we are only running the stock 6psi. Can someone shed some light as to whether this is the truth?

Also, we do not have any boost control on the turbo as yet. The little vacuum nipple on the front of the turbo has nothing running to it at the moment. Do we need a boost controller and is this where it is plumbed to? If not, do we just take the nipple out and put a bolt in its place?

The idle was sitting on about 1200rpm. We have not taken the butterfly valves out of the manifold. Is this why the idle was high? Can we just do the cable tie trick? I am not too sure on how to do this though. Some pics would be great!

When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do?

We haven't brought the car onto boost yet either. It's running a complete XR6T setup on a NA motor. Fuel reg, injectors, turbo, cooler.

Some answers would be very helpful! Also pics would be great.

Thanks guys!

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 1:12 am 
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braidy wrote:
We're running the NA ECU and map sensor. I have been told that the NA map sensor can't handle the boost. I struggle to believe this, seeing as the NA sensor is rated at 1.5bar (22psi roughly) and we are only running the stock 6psi. Can someone shed some light as to whether this is the truth?

Never heard of a 1.5bar MAP sensor. They are normally 1, 2, 3 or 5-bar. A NA MAP sensor by definition is 1 bar as the maximum pressure measured is atmospheric.

Take care to understand what MAP means too... Manifold Absolute Pressure. Boost is normally measured as "relative" pressure - relative to atmospheric. Absolute pressure is pressure above total vacuum, so atmospheric pressure expressed in absolute terms is 1 bar. So 6psi of boost as measured by a MAP sensor is 14.7psi (atmospheric) + 6psi = 20.7psi or approx 1.4 bar.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 1:21 am 
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braidy wrote:
When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do?

One would be the supply line & the other the return line (to take excess fuel back to the tank). Dunno how you'd get so much pressure to split a line though. If you did manage it, that might affect the idle too?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:13 am 
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sly wrote:
Never heard of a 1.5bar MAP sensor. They are normally 1, 2, 3 or 5-bar. A NA MAP sensor by definition is 1 bar as the maximum pressure measured is atmospheric.

Take care to understand what MAP means too... Manifold Absolute Pressure. Boost is normally measured as "relative" pressure - relative to atmospheric. Absolute pressure is pressure above total vacuum, so atmospheric pressure expressed in absolute terms is 1 bar. So 6psi of boost as measured by a MAP sensor is 14.7psi (atmospheric) + 6psi = 20.7psi or approx 1.4 bar.


Ah, I understand. So, running this setup, the MAP sensor will s**t itself if we feed it 6psi from the turbo? I do have the XR6T sensor, but the plug is different and we really need to get the car running. I can change it over at a later date though.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:16 am 
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sly wrote:
braidy wrote:
When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do?

One would be the supply line & the other the return line (to take excess fuel back to the tank). Dunno how you'd get so much pressure to split a line though. If you did manage it, that might affect the idle too?


What would happen if these two were around the wrong way? I assume the hose going to the reg is the supply, and the one from the little tube underneath the rail is the return? The hose had slipped down the sleeve that it clamps to on the bottom of the reg too.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:01 am 
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The reg is on the rail itself, so it will be bypassed if the hoses are switched? The injectors will be getting fuel at the full pump pressure and overfuelling the engine. Maybe the fast idle is part of the ECU's strategy for dealing with excess fuel?

Just guessing really. I do know that if I ever have to disconnect fuel lines in future, I'll make sure to mark one so they go back right :idea:

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:21 pm 
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as for your boost control.

just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo.

you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi.

not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:41 pm 
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bfhoon wrote:
as for your boost control.

just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo.

you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi.

not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it.


Yeah, I have the wastegate connected to a nipple off the intake manifold. So, I should change it to have the wastegate hose connected to the nipple on the compressor housing?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:16 pm 
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bfhoon wrote:
as for your boost control.

just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo.

you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi.

not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it.

The factorty actuator is only 4psi...
by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky..

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:21 pm 
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Mr.Kiss wrote:
bfhoon wrote:
as for your boost control.

just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo.

you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi.

not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it.

The factorty actuator is only 4psi...
by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky..


What do you mean?

 

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