In the Capa booklet it says to replace all spark plugs and if possible with 1 stage "cooler" and to not use platinum or resistor type plugs.

The CAPA kit actually includes new spakr plugs with a different gap setting.

I've got an Autometer C2 Vacum/Boost gauge - it didn't get to the boost side of the gauge and based on the performance (or lack thereof) I believe it is correct.

If they are bosch plugs, throw them straight in the bin, trust me....

run ngk zgr6b11S gap to .8mm

should hav no spark issues

It would be nice if the originator of this thread would come back with his prognosis. that way if one of us guys encounters the same probs we'll know the procedure how to trace it!!!

I bet the drive gears where f**k!

Nah, they're NGKs. I looked them up and they're what are fitted to a Nissan Skyline R32 or 33 (I can't remember exactly now).

I've been away for a week. There's been a bit of a developement.
Since adjusting the BOV spring tension setting it definately seems to have more oomph. I havn't reved it right up again but as I've been away.

However, sounds like the belt has started developing a small squeel now!

Were'd you get that part number from?
I can't find it listed on the NGK wesbtei (http://www.ngk.com.au).
ZGR6B-11 (without the S on the end) I'm pretty sure is just the standard dual fuel/Tickford I6 plug.

yeah when i had a capa kit on my eb (about 7 years ago) they supplied bosch plugs.. It never went any good with them, in the end i tried the ZGR6B-11's but they tended to foul up a bit with daily driving so i eneded up just sticking with the BRE527Y 's and an MSD-6A. Never had a problem with the ignition after that.

Belts on them things are buggers, cause the top pulleys so small they do tend to slip a lot, too much tension and it will chew the blower bearing out. Invest in a can of belt grip and give it a spray once a week or so and that will help it from slipping whithout needing to have it stupidly tight.

when the engine is off the bov should be shut, when idling it should be open, or at least 3/4 open and soon as you snap the throttle open from idle, the bov should close near on immediately, if not, then there is too much spring tension therefore it will take a lot more boost to make boost if you get what i mean (it will vent till theres sufficient pressure (boost) in the plenum to close it before it will start holding boost)

also might as well swap to the 9psi pulley, cause its going to make that much boost at 5700 rpm. Just keep an eye on A/F ratio's though

Last edited by 66 coupe on Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

told ya to sing out , sounds like i should take a look

That'd be ace. Perhaps look at the LPG at the same time?

I've got a Tickford head on, so the ZGR6B-11 is the correct standard plug for my setup. I'll try and find out which plug they ended up giving me.




I'll try some belt grip.
Being an EF they have the automatic belt tensioners.




The BOV is doing as you say. It opens as soon as I take my foot off, it sits open at idle, but as soon as some revs are given she snaps closed.




2 reasons I've got the 6 psi pulley on is firstly if I go with the 9psi set up I've got to intercool or water cool, and secondly, I don't know if my LPG system which I want to get running can handly 9psi.

Pictures:

Ah the quality GRA ISC relocator.