Joined: 9th Sep 2005
Ok so I've been offered a burnout car.
It's a 5L fairlane, 93 vintage. It's well beyond it's years as a road car (dents, rust, idiots been at the interior etc) and has been turned into a burnout car. I haven't laid eyes on the car yet (monday or tuesday I'll go check it out and decide if it's mechanically sound) but rumour has it that it has a cut exhuast, not much interior and has been overheated on at least one occasion. But it's free.
So "The Plan" (after car is inspected and found to be of at least useable mechanical condition)
Monster trans cooler (mounted in boot with thermofan and water spray), water spray for radiator too. Full service on transmission and engine. Re-join exhaust and run it to the back of the car in large diameter piping (3" single probably), run a single muffler to take the rasp out of it. It needs to howl not cry. Electrically modify transmission to increase line pressure on shifts. That should allow me to go out there, not sound like an idiot, and reliably kill 205-65-15's time after time in 2nd gear doing heli's, 3rd in a standstill.
Note that the water spray is not going to be some low pressure squirter. High pressure pumps with fogging nozzles. Lower water use, more effective, and more importantly for officials, no considerable dripping onto the pad as it all evaporates in the radiator.
Stage 1 I can do, it's the next stage that I'm concerned about. Hell, boosting anything that was never designed for it involves questions.
Install turbocharger at rear of vehicle in standard rear muffler zone. Boot mount intercooler, with fans and water spray. Electric scavenge pump etc. Injectors, ECU solution, minor adaptations to up front oil breather system, oil cooler. Probably a blow off valve. Borrow a wide-band on a stick (exhaust probe), tune on the pad during practice sessions. Run 98, probably around 5-6 psi on 98 with one of those chinese T3-T4 hybrids or a T-70 clone, whatever comes up cheapest and seems easiest at the time. Not sure on wastegate
I'm *assuming* that stock ED 5L can make 110rwkw (my EF 4L made 105). With exhuast, maybe 120rwkw. Target for boosted power is a more respectable 160rwkw at this stage. The point is to be able to do 3rd gear helis (wheel speed range 160-180km/h).
So questions for stage 2:
Long story short, can the stock ecu/injectors/etc setup survive at 5psi and presumably 160rwkw? If not I have no issue replacing it, but it's a bang-for-your-buck thing and I would prefer not to. Dropping the boost down to 3-4psi is an option if it's going to save me $1000, as the engine should only need a little boost in power (pun that) to pull 3rd gear helis. Also stage 2 is more about sound.
And if I'm going to replace the ECU/injectors/all that: What size injectors should I use? If I have to do that I'll be sizing them for 250-300rwkw (depending on the limits of the stock bottom end).
Depending on turbo/wastegate I chose in stage 2, upgrade to something capable of 300rwkw. New fuel and ecu setup becomes mandatory now. New large diameter tailshaft so it doesn't break above 200 like the stock one. Run as much boost as the stock bottom end can handle. Hoping for wheelspeeds around the 250km/h mark with this setup. Pray for the health of the gearbox, I've done all I can for it and run out of budget half way through stage 2....
Questions for stage 3:
How much punishment can the stock rods and pistons take?
What about the block?
Just how much does a new tailshaft cost anyway?
I'm not really concerned about the breathing ability of the heads, inlet manifold etc. 400rwkw is for people with more money than me.
Thanks for your help
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