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Centrifugal Supercharger thread 

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:19 pm 
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Yeah those US tensioner bolt things look great.A gilmer setup would be overkill for 8 PSI, but its still the best way to go.   They're expensive though!Normal pulley kits are around $700, Gilmer drives are double that.
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:16 am 
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Link to these ebay thingy's???

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:28 pm 
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No idea mate, they're on the US ebay.
Have a look see on there. It would be under supercharger tensioner or something.
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:24 pm 
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vortech- ... enameZWDVW

 

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'95 EF XR8 auto, Advance headers, 3" exhaust, Cobra manifold, BBK 75mm throttle body , 80MM Marauder MAF, Vortech V2 T Trim , 307 rwhp, 405 ft/lb 13.2 @ 105 MPH

Now N/A (permanent Lag) - AFR 165's, Comp XE270 cam, 1.6 RR - 269 rwhp 14.1 @ 102mph.

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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 12:28 am 
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EL XR8 wrote:
Apart from their bracketry, why go to CAPA anyway, just source the stuff yourself.  Save yourself a packet, and get a Vortech setup instead of paying CAPA prices.

I've got a stock 5L, with E7's and HO, so restrictive as.
Vortech V2SQ at the moment, running Wolf 3D V4.
Makes 240rwkw at 8PSI.

Nothing like proven oil lubricated reliability.

Still give me a Positive Displacement blower anyday over a Vortech. 


Just PM'd you mate!

 

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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:08 pm 
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OK it's all good let's pack in a few solids for dudes searchin' about CF Superchargers.
NO 1 This would have to be the cheapest solution to go forced.$/HP ratio surely this is the way.
NO 2 Simple system usually a self fit.
No 3,No extra heat/stress management needed out to about 12PSI on a healthy stockish motor.IE driveline will last if used sensibly.
No 3.One hard and fast rule is the 25% larger inlet to carb/TB ratio for optimum gains i am 3inch to 3inch here and i know 4 to 3 would optimise boost and power would follow.
NO 4 Improved fuel efficiency at low load.
NO 5 Similar brands with similar componentry will yield similar performances this should hold true.
Anyone else got some solids here.Or as you can see solidishish.

 

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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:28 pm 
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I have to get cleaned out for a colonoscopy on Friday. I'll have lots of solids on Thursday... :twisted: :oops: :oops: :shock: :roll: :twisted:

 

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To be updated... soon!

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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:28 pm 
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badcooky wrote:
NO 1 This would have to be the cheapest solution to go forced.$/HP ratio surely this is the way.


How much did your setup cost you?

Snort kits are pretty cheap these days. It would be pretty close assuming people can DIY some of the work.
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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:43 pm 
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Dansedgli wrote:
Snort kits are pretty cheap these days. It would be pretty close assuming people can DIY some of the work.

Depends on the individual. I wouldn't attempt to DIY a turbo install. For me the cost of a Snort Stage 2 kit is less than half the all-up cost of the job. And I would use an externally-gated ball-bearing turbo if going that way... it all starts to add up.

BTW I'll suggest that a new emoticon be made available... a baited hook LOL!

 

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To be updated... soon!

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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:50 pm 
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sly wrote:
Dansedgli wrote:
Snort kits are pretty cheap these days. It would be pretty close assuming people can DIY some of the work.

Depends on the individual. I wouldn't attempt to DIY a turbo install. For me the cost of a Snort Stage 2 kit is less than half the all-up cost of the job. And I would use an externally-gated ball-bearing turbo if going that way... it all starts to add up.


You have to compare apples with apples. If you only want to run 12psi with a raptor there is no point comparing it to a turbo setup capable of running 25 psi.

What else do you need to buy that would double the cost?

Until I know how much a raptor kit costs I cant say what you can and cant include in a turbo setup to match it so Im not going to argue the fact.
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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 10:56 pm 
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badcooky wrote:
OK it's all good let's pack in a few solids for dudes searchin' about CF Superchargers.

NO 1 This would have to be the cheapest solution to go forced.$/HP ratio surely this is the way.

On a V8, yes. 6 cyl, definately debatable on price per hp.


NO 2 Simple system usually a self fit.

Yes pretty well.

No 3,No extra heat/stress management needed out to about 12PSI on a healthy stockish motor.IE driveline will last if used sensibly.

You'll need water injection or a cooler at 12 PSI. Not many people drive 'that' sensibly, otherwise they probably wouldn't waste their money on forced induction.

No 3.One hard and fast rule is the 25% larger inlet to carb/TB ratio for optimum gains i am 3inch to 3inch here and i know 4 to 3 would optimise boost and power would follow.

Yeah

NO 4 Improved fuel efficiency at low load.

Yes and no. You 'can' obtain slightly better fuel efficiency. But you will never achieve it on the street. No matter how lightly i drive my car. It is still no where near as fuel efficient as it was when N/A. Don't even think for a second driving it slowly around the city will be within litres of when the car was N/A. Highway driving is the only thing where it comes close, but is still a good litre or two off, when it was N/A.

NO 5 Similar brands with similar componentry will yield similar performances this should hold true.

Yes and No, Powerdynes to Vortech, which most people would call 'similar' are worlds apart. You can put down another 40rwkw running a Vortech on the same boost as a powerdyne. Thats the rough guide as to what people have made off numerous cars in the past.
Anyone else got some solids here.Or as you can see solidishish.



To me a solid bit of info is, if you want a cheaper (on some motors, V8) way to go forced, a blower is good. They're about on par with a turbo setup on a 6 cyl, price wise.

For ease of installation, a blower is going to be twice as easy any day of the week.

A blown car will perform like a N/A car if driven easily but only become wild with revs which can be a good thing, if driven a lot. But will get spanked in any roll on acceleration by a similar powered turbo car.
All depends on what you're after.

Thats about it for the moment.
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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 12:54 am 
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Dansedgli wrote:
sly wrote:
Dansedgli wrote:
Snort kits are pretty cheap these days. It would be pretty close assuming people can DIY some of the work.

Depends on the individual. I wouldn't attempt to DIY a turbo install. For me the cost of a Snort Stage 2 kit is less than half the all-up cost of the job. And I would use an externally-gated ball-bearing turbo if going that way... it all starts to add up.


You have to compare apples with apples. If you only want to run 12psi with a raptor there is no point comparing it to a turbo setup capable of running 25 psi.

What else do you need to buy that would double the cost?

Until I know how much a raptor kit costs I cant say what you can and cant include in a turbo setup to match it so Im not going to argue the fact.


Promotional prices for the AU are here http://www.fordmods.com/forums/post824695.html#824695

As I said I wouldn't attempt a turbo install myself, I've been quoted 3 days' labour to install & tune... at $80/hr that's $1,920. Dynos near me are charged at $125-150/hr so any dyno time in that will add on as well, say 6hrs @ $45/hr extra... $270. A flash tuner box is included in the Raptor kit (or $500 deducted from the price for buyers who already have one). No tuning is included in the Snort kits, so add $500 at least. IIRC the Snort kit includes an FMU, the Raptor kit includes an XR6T reg and 36lb injectors. Getting harder to compare apples with apples now. I'd prefer not to use the FMU, so allow a bit for reg and injectors, and a bit more for a 2-bar MAP sensor. Going with new parts ($80 per injector) I'd be looking at what? $800?

So far that's $1920 + 270 + 500 + 800 = $3490 on top of the Snort kit price. So just shy of $6500 for the cheapest one. For me. YMMV.

But realistically my choice is strongly influenced by minimising my daily driver's downtime, and the ease with which I can transfer the setup from my 330,000km AU1 to my wife's 100,000km AU3 in the not too distant future when we trade up.

 

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To be updated... soon!

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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 3:20 am 
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Lot to be said for the interchangeability advantage.

Wouldn't be TOO much involved to swap the Raptor from an EF/EL/AU to a BA/BF either.

 

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QUARTER MILE PB: currently 14.590 @ 96.00 mph ...BOOST AHEAD!!

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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:37 am 
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Good point, new bracket and a few incidentals. It'd help though if the BA/F tunes were on a CAPA flash unit. I'm not sure whether the Chiptorque Xflash is the SCT unit rebranded or one of Brendan Ede's creations.

 

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To be updated... soon!

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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 2:52 pm 
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[quote="EL XR8"][quote="badcooky"]

NO 4 Improved fuel efficiency at low load.

Yes and no. You 'can' obtain slightly better fuel efficiency. But you will never achieve it on the street. No matter how lightly i drive my car. It is still no where near as fuel efficient as it was when N/A. Don't even think for a second driving it slowly around the city will be within litres of when the car was N/A. Highway driving is the only thing where it comes close, but is still a good litre or two off, when it was N/A.


Regarding fuel efficiency, my experience witha powerdyne has been positive. I've driven the vehicle for extended periods with and without blower, recording fuel consumption weekly. Without blower best 'city' results average around 12.5l/100km. With blower fitted best 'city' results are between 11.7 - 12l/100km. Of course this relies on light loads...regular heavy boosting can see this rise to 15l/100km. I can't comment accurately on highway consumption as i haven't used a full tank on only highway driving. I can comment though that on mixed highway (eg. 200km highway, 400km city), I'm more efficient with blower....can get around 10L/100km in this scenario, while closer to 11L/100km without blower. No doubt that driven normally my car is more fuel efficient with the blower. Maybe there is a difference between blower efficiencies? Eg. maybe a vortech, which generates more power for the same boost, also uses more fuel due to increased air temps = less efficient cruise?

 

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