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Head Studs, I think I have something 

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:44 pm 
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im guessing that he is talking about exhaust manifold studs.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:49 pm 
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if it works out then i definitely take a set off ya hands

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 11:27 am 
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Has anyone tried Performance Wholesale in Slacks Creek Brisbane? They definately did a stud kit for a crossflow?
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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 9:02 pm 
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problem is 4l has metric bolts, main and head and rod... x-flow has imperial sizes

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:48 pm 
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i had head studs on mine you can unscrew them to do the head,i got them from duggans balancing. give them a call they might be able to help
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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:51 pm 
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mitchg911 wrote:
just a thought, but will it actually be possible to get the head off incar with studs?



-mitch
the head studs unscrew
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Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:30 pm 
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I just rang Duggans. They have a guy in Sydney who makes them up with a cut thread. Its gotta be a rolled thread and this is the main reason for the high cost of good engine studs.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:49 pm 
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ef_jet wrote:
mitchg911 wrote:
just a thought, but will it actually be possible to get the head off incar with studs?



-mitch
the head studs unscrew



im aware the studs unscrew, however one would normally secure them with stud lock, making them difficult to get out.. i guess if you werent going to pull the motor down on a regular basis then the extra effort in removing the studs wouldnt be a problem.



-mitch

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 2:22 am 
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You generally do not lock tight the studs in. There is no reason to, you just do them finger tight. A good headstud will also have enough thread on top to get a second nut on to it to be able to lock two nuts together to undo a tight stud.

If you did use a lock tight then I would use the weakest available.

 

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Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:56 pm 
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also very interested in these so price would be great when you confirm you can actually use them.
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:24 pm 
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I got the studs. Basically they fit but work out a bit too much. Recently I found that I can get custom studs made up in Australia for around $32 each so I think I may go down this path but the studs may not be as good as the ones from the US so it needs a little further checking.

The stud with the correct metric thread is not a commonly used stud hence the price is a bit more than the 1/2" stud which is alot more common.

The prices include studs nuts washers and postage to perth
The metric 12mm stud is about 15mm too long and requires about 5 hardened washers. They will do the same job as any custom stud but at $36 are a bit pricy.

The 1/2 inch stud is exactly the right length and would work fine but needs the block to be redrilled and the head holes opened up a little. These work out to $25 each.

Attatched are some pics

I am still deciding what I am going to do but think the custom aust studs may be the way to go as I might get some main studs made up at the same time so that I can accomodate a crank girdle that I am may end up doing.

 

 

Attachments:
stud1.JPG
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stud4.JPG
stud4.JPG [ 16.39 KiB | Viewed 60 times ]
stud5.JPG
stud5.JPG [ 15.75 KiB | Viewed 57 times ]

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:50 pm 
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for the sake of $100ish i dont reckon it's worth mucking around drilling and retapping everything. less room for error.

what tension can u safely get out of them?

they look pretty long, have u tried it with a rocker cover in place?

i'm still up for a set

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 3:16 pm 
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interesting! but why not mill up a spacer instead of all those washers?
never been a fan of those "torque to yield" bolts. Studs for the win!

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:13 pm 
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Originally I was going to do up a spacer but remember the spacer has to be made out of a metal thats heat treated and whilst not hard the specially ground washers provided do the job but at over $1 each add $5 to the cost.

THe bolts will tension to whatever is necessary and am quite sure they will clear the rocker but will check nevertheless.

I am still deciding what to do and want to find the most economical solution. At that expense its still only something that you would do for a highly boosted engine.

I will advise in a couple of weeks when I have more time

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:25 am 
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I tapped the block for the 1/2" stud and tested it for strength. I would have torqued it up over 300ftlb with a long bar as much as it would go and to the point that it distorted the nut. The thread in the block is as strong as the original thread and no issues in this department.

Threading the new thread is very easy. All I did was run the tap into the block with not even having to use a drill. The new thread fits in well. Its so easy that you could even do this with the engine in the car.

The 1/2 stud fits perfect for size and is an off the shelf bolt.

They are $25 each or $350 a set you will need a specific $50 tap from me to tap the threads. I will be putting a order in next week if anyone is interested.

This is the best solution for a high performance turbo mtr IMO. Getting custom studs was going to cost more time than just spending 1hr tapping the threads.

 

 

Attachments:
turbov6 008.jpg
turbov6 008.jpg [ 309.23 KiB | Viewed 65 times ]

 

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