270rwhp? At what gear and at what road speed does it refuse to light the tires in when you simply lean on the accelerator.↲
I don't know who the old owner is but he's just spoonfed you a box of sanitarium (bull)s**t.

haha ah well mate. as i said before, ill dyno it first before i announce anything.

so honestly doesnt bother me mate, go jump in your EA with mismatching hubcaps.

im here to improve this car, and your here to do what again??

just had another look at ur engine bay dude, that black piping section over the exhaust might as well have "HOT AIR INTAKE" written on it. firstly anything black absorbs/holds heat. secondly no heat shielding or wrapping AT ALL on those extractors. your engine bay temps must be though the roof. not attacking ya but id be looking into the above modifications before worrying about an intercooler.

side note: if you plan on running a 10psi pulley you might wana add another belt tensioner because by looking how your serpentine belt is routed you might have slippage probs. my 2 cents

I have one of the Subi W2A units, my plan is to hide it under the top over of the air box, and then put a pod in a 4x4 air box I have here and put that behind the front bar.. end result is it should look factory and do the job... good enough for me.

is this some scientific formula to calculate power based on wheelspin that doesn't take into effect tyres or road condition?
or are you trying to say that 200rwkw turns an e-series into a fire breathing monster?

wait don't answer that, they are both equally retarded.

Gureno, if you choose to plumb the intake down into the front guard, it will work similar to this pic.

By the way, despite the supercharger type, it looks like the previous owner has put some effort into your setup...neat pipework, looks like 24lb injectors, etc. Someone has had a go at making it work.

Joe

 

 

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actually black doesnt fluctuate as much as chrome intake pipes, black is good at maintaining constant temperatures. hence why radiators are painted black, chrome, silver etc although they are reflective, under direct contact like that in the conditions of an engine bay will see more fluctuation of intake temperatures then a black steel pipe. physics.

yeah its a pretty neat setup.

yeah the extractors do need a heat shield.

as for the pulley setup. im thinking of getting a different pulley made up for the waterpump as it is the only steel pulley on the system which doesnt have a lip on it. hence the slippage last saturday night.

ill be running a 8psi pulley.

first though before anything happens i have to replace the S5 solenoid in the box, which should be fun .

i remember back in school in physics we put 2 thermometers under 1 black and 1 white piece of paper and put them outside and the temps under the black paper were much higher. figured same would go for piping? also having painted piping as opposed to bare polished/brushed aluminium piping, wouldnt the paint layer hold heat in the piping longer than bare piping? im sure this has been argued about in many forums but just interested if its true or not.

you could ditch doing the S5 solenoid and do the 5spd conv. probably less stuffing around hahaha!

both colours are good in different environments.

haha yeah, how much would a 5spd conversion set me back??

color works by absorbing light (visible radiation) the darker an object is the more it absorbs (different colours of light also have different energy levels), near infrared is just outside of the visible spectrum (but when and object is hot enough it will actually emit visible light) so black objects will also absorb more infrared heat which in your case the black pipe will be absorbing lots and lots of it off your extractors, this is radiated heat. having the pipe right next to the extractors ensures that maximum radiated energy makes it wasy to the pipe (as energy radiated falls off with the square of the distance) half as far away = four times the energy

The general hot air in your engine bay works differently, it will be a mixture of convection (hot air rising and mixing with cooler air coming in from outside) - this cant really be changed in any meaningfull way, and conduction (from the hot exhaust+engine to air molecules (and via convection), to your intake piping, again having the pipe right there is bad as the further away from the extractors the more cooler air will have mixed with the hot air lowering its temperature - conduction is based on a linear relationship between the difference in temperature of the two materials transferring heat (big difference = big energy transfer, small difference = small transfer)

This is where the best gains are to be made, a bare alloy pipe will conduct heat better than any other material a sane person would ever use in an engine bay (copper intake pipe FTL ) if you paint it WHITE it will insulate it against conduction- black however will increase its ability to absorb radiant heat (gains via less conductive transfer will probably outweigh the loss due to more absorbtion of radiant heat though) this however depends on the thermal conductivity of the paint you use (and how thick it is), using a different material such as steel will help but its conductive properties are still pretty good (again painting it white helps) - plastic is best as it is a poor conductor of heat - but in your case it will melt on the intake into the SC.

i suggest wrapping your extractors, and pissing off the battery into the boot and running the intake up and over the SC and into the area the battery was in, as all your heat soak is coming from the big long run of pipe over the extractors (and it being black and probably metallic), thermodynamics was never a strong subject of mine so if ive made a big boo boo some where, somone with a better grasp of it should jump in!, this may alleviate your need for intercooling and if it doesnt, there is plenty of room in between the SC and the TB for a thin water to air core

+10 for 'what he said' ^^

my manual trans conversion cost me $50bucks for an ED wagon w/manual trans and then $40 for flywheel machine and $350 for exedy sports tough clutch and $65 for some transmax z oil. then a saturday to put out the dash and weld in a clutch pin and swap over the trans. so $515 bucks i guess. my mate has a box his keen on selling?