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Making turbo manifold for ef I6 need little hand 

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:58 pm 
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This is the way it should be done. Low mount keeps the turbo cooler and the inlet and exhaust are at nicer angles.

I can do you a laser cut flange for around $100 plus postage. The flange should actually NOT be done in stainless. There are actually benefits in doing it in steel.

Goodluck in your pursuits. Thickwall stainless is good from the point of view that Stainless keeps the heat in the manifold better than steel. There is nothing wrong with thickwall steel pipe. The most important is to TIG weld it properly. MIG IMO wont do it well enough to prevent cracking.

 

 

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turbo ed 021.jpg
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 11:31 pm 
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u did a nice job of that manifold turbotrana.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 1:18 am 
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yeah agreed can ya make me one :P
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Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 1:50 am 
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Thanks Fritz. Alot of thought has gone into it. Turbo placement is such that I have tried to keep the compressor side of things as far away from a heat source as possible.

Rapier, sorry I have too much work on ATM.

Heres another pic

 

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 3:25 am 
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is that 1.5" or 1.25" id pipe?

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:09 pm 
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1.25 from where im looking

xflow did ask me how many bends and what angle bends i used (sorry i havent replied yet) but he obviously doesnt realise the radius difference between 1.25 and 1.5.... there is no direct comparison

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 2:14 am 
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its 1.25 shedule 10 stainless so it ends up the internal diameter being slightly larger than the exhaust port and works out great.

With 1.25 steel you can only get it minimum sched 40 which makes the internal diamenter slightly smaller than the exhaust port.

1.5 is way too large for a spaghetti manifold

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 2:40 am 
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turbotrana wrote:
With 1.25 steel you can only get it minimum sched 40 which makes the internal diamenter slightly smaller than the exhaust port.

not unless you have increased the outlet diameter of your exhaust ports...

when i measured them, i rekn they were equal, the 1.25 is 32nb. anyone got an old head laying round?? wait a minute, i have, time to do some measuring

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:07 pm 
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make sure you purge the inside with argon to so it doesn't look like a hairy a$$hole on the i.d.

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 2:12 pm 
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i just measured the exhaust ports of a stock au1 head i have in the shed and they were exactly 35mm id.

i was talking to mrd performance(they built tufed6 car) a while back and they pretty much said they wouldn't build a manifold with pipe any smaller than 1.5".

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 4:18 pm 
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ebs_4l wrote:
when i measured them, i rekn they were equal, the 1.25 is 32nb.

sorry, i tell a lie, it is quoted in the books as 32nb, just actually measured some steampipe and a hand full of elbows and all were a minimum i.d of 34.82mm ranging upto 35.29mm....

so there ya go, they are a pefrect match for the exhaust ports as i previously thought...

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:27 pm 
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sorry about the delay on my reply I currently have very limited access to pc for the next week

vibr8n wrote:
make sure you purge the inside with argon to so it doesn't look like a hairy a$$hole on the i.d.


Yer ill make sure i get the insides cleaned out
i don't really want to Screw my turbo with metal filings and s**t.

So can anyone help with the question i asked?
i was after place ment of the turbo flange

turbotrana wrote:
The flange should actually NOT be done in stainless. There are actually benefits in doing it in steel.



if you don't mind me asking WHY?
i can get nice piece of stainless(cheap) and just craft it to the needed shape ive already made templates for both the manifold and turbo flange. the ports on the manifold flange are at right size for the pipe and imy dads mate a fabricator so he got the drill press with the massive drill peices to drill the ports.


If you also don't mind me asking but did you have any problems with the pluming due to have the turbo so low? great idea i say but you also got a few catches to the design like oil feed line got to be longer unless you take it under the sump if you want to take the risk of something hitting the line. Thats my luck something would rip it or sqwash it LOL

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:48 am 
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Main reason for not having a stainless flange is distortion. It needs to have a near perfect seal and once welded it will pull the sides down. Being stainless you wont be bending it back to easy and if you manage to pull it up, it wont be dead straight.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:18 am 
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This is not my experience but have read a few times that stainless steel flanges tend to warp in service.

re placement: you really have to work out the best position based on the type of manifold you want to make. i.e top mount or bottom mount,turbo size,routing of pipes etc. Best thing to do remove your existing exhaust manifold on car and try and find the best location by sitting the turbo in the car.

I dont have any plumbing problems with my setup.

Goodluck

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:20 am 
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as for the stainless head flange, the numbers arent coming to me right now, but you need something like .120" bolt clearance on your outer holes just so the flange wont snap off the head studs/bolts when the manifold gets hot

 

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