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Mr.Kiss's EF LPG Turbo Project *FIRST POST UPDATED 25/03/07* 

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:06 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Looks very nice indeed and fool proof. Good on yah dude, you've inspired me... big thumbs up and ill stay tuned :)
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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luke111 wrote:
Mr Kiss your car is looking great mate, that intercooler looks good behind the front bar, its very subtle.

Im wondering though, (and this has probably been covered before) but wouldn't the bumper restrict the airflow to the top 2/3rds of the intercooler and therefore be a waste of time?
Would you get the same cooling effect from using an intercooler only half that height or does it still get enough airflow in behind there anyway?

Luke.


Sorry but to tell ya the truth i cant answer that one, I'll just ahve to wait and find out! Altho other people have done the same as me and dont have any problems as far as know...

 

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2006 VZ SS cammed 6Ltr ute 295rwkW
2004 BA XR6T - 290rwkW 12.5@113mph ( SOLD )
1996 EFII Fairmont - 130rwkW 15.5@91mph ( SOLD )

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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:24 am 
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Looking good stefan!
You might be able to keep up to my ED with some boost :P

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 11:05 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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moody wrote:
hey, looks like good progress with your manifold.
why did you decide on a 2 piece flange? wouldnt a single be stronger?
also is it 4 mm black steel aswell?
also your hole size in the flange, how much smaller did you go?
how is the flange for the turbo going to mounted onto the tubes? are you going to squish the 2 ends a bit? or will they fit fine with complete ends?
you dont have any progress shots of you flange either do you?
looks good, and ill keep watching
Cheers :)

Two piece allows for expansion without deforming flange..
There is enough air to cool engine and supply enough to cool air conditioner condenser as well.. So there's enough air for intercooler etc..Infact they are designed to stop air bouncing off ...
On the manifold you find it better to angle cyl 2 and 5 ports towards centre or with 1/2 45* bend as it enters main manifold...

 

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As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:52 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Just cylynders 2 and 5? it would even the flow and make it smoother with cylynders 3 and 4 on about a 60* bend aswell?
with the flow, will it make that much of a difference though?
these manifold are built for internal waste gates aswell right?
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:20 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Correct but the centre two are almost inline with turbo flange which could be at 45* to engine flange plate...It's the 90* bends that should be avoided to prevent reversion rather than flow..Hot gases don't have too much issues flowing, cpmared to n/a engine... Its not uncomon to have 2+ to 1 pressure in exhaust to boost...

 

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As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 8:48 am 
Getting Side Ways
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moody wrote:
these manifold are built for internal waste gates aswell right?

Yes they are designed for an internat gate... But if you READ my first post it will answer your Question.
Quote:
One issue I have at the moment is how I'm going to put the external wastegate in
- plumb it into the manifold somewhere
or
- get someone to weld it onto the turbine....

 

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My Cars
2006 VZ SS cammed 6Ltr ute 295rwkW
2004 BA XR6T - 290rwkW 12.5@113mph ( SOLD )
1996 EFII Fairmont - 130rwkW 15.5@91mph ( SOLD )

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:27 am 
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Do what Ebs_4l did and weld it to the turbine housing :)
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:26 pm 
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I think your cooler should be ok where it is. The cooling affect will radiate up to a certain extent through the core. Also being an engineering student im failry sure i read somewhere this year that the heat transference from the air flowing through the core will be in the vicinity of 50% of the difference in temperature!

QUP4M3...
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 6:25 pm 
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xcabbi wrote:
Do what Ebs_4l did and weld it to the turbine housing

I cant do that now because once my setup is up and running I'll be trying out a few differant exaust housings on my car...
My turbo supplier is interested in what the results will be on a falcon. So all i have to do is buy the first turbo and then i send it back and he changes it to a differant housing...

So I'm starting of with the Masterpower T60 approx620hp

The specs to the T-60 are...
floating bearing with 360deg thrust. Oil cooled.

compressor
T-seires T-60, 60.5mm/84mm
.7ar comp housing using reflow (antisurge 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet)

Turbine
mpbt 74trim ( GT P trim).
Housing options, .5ar, .7ar, .84ar, .96ar, 1.00ar

So I'll start off with the .5ar and if I feel its choking the enging I'll probably swap it for .84ar and if i feel that is still choking it I'll then opt for the 1.00ar

 

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My Cars
2006 VZ SS cammed 6Ltr ute 295rwkW
2004 BA XR6T - 290rwkW 12.5@113mph ( SOLD )
1996 EFII Fairmont - 130rwkW 15.5@91mph ( SOLD )

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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:18 pm 
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xcabbi wrote:
Do what Ebs_4l did and weld it to the turbine housing :)

dont even go there.... that divided the whole community, LOL

most strongly disgree for the fact that they cant understand the mentality of chopping a hole in your new $1800 turbo..

others strongly agree, because they understand that a wastegate needs to be placed in THE most effective position, and be as an effiecient outlet as possible..


one thing i know is that i will never fit a wastegate outlet to anything but the turbine housing. for anyone reading this that hasnt read my too much boost thread, i can bet you that instantly, after considering those two options (manifold/turbine) you would have joined one of those two opinions... either would or wouldnt chop your turbo?????

i understand that alone would make it hard for me to sell one of my exhausts, since i will only run a turbine outlet, but, if im to sell something, and gaurantee it works, then i want to know that it WILL work

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:26 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Mr Kiss,

Sorry I didn't see your turbo size question thread earlier but it seems you have made a pretty good selection for a Ford 6.

I would suggest you don't bother with the housings smaller than 0.84 A/R if you want to exact maximum potential out of rht P-trim 60mm wheel setup.

I ran a 60-1mm compressor wheel and p-trim turbine wheel with 0.7 A/R compressor and 1.0 A/R split pulse turbine housing and made 400 rwhp on 19 psi boost on a 250 crossflow. I had massive amounts of backpressure, approximately 7 psi, some of which was caused by the turbine housing and some cuased by the exhaust system after the turbine housing.

If you want to get good results from your turbine housing testing make sure you run the biggest dump pipe and exhaust you can fit. 4" dump if you can and then twin 2.5 or 3" to the rear with twin mufflers. It may sound like overkill but exhaust system backpressure will make it hard to evaluate the true restriction caused by the turbine housing.
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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:11 pm 
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MarkZE wrote:
Mr Kiss,

Sorry I didn't see your turbo size question thread earlier but it seems you have made a pretty good selection for a Ford 6.

I would suggest you don't bother with the housings smaller than 0.84 A/R if you want to exact maximum potential out of rht P-trim 60mm wheel setup.

I ran a 60-1mm compressor wheel and p-trim turbine wheel with 0.7 A/R compressor and 1.0 A/R split pulse turbine housing and made 400 rwhp on 19 psi boost on a 250 crossflow. I had massive amounts of backpressure, approximately 7 psi, some of which was caused by the turbine housing and some cuased by the exhaust system after the turbine housing.

If you want to get good results from your turbine housing testing make sure you run the biggest dump pipe and exhaust you can fit. 4" dump if you can and then twin 2.5 or 3" to the rear with twin mufflers. It may sound like overkill but exhaust system backpressure will make it hard to evaluate the true restriction caused by the turbine housing.

Hey with that turbo when did you start getting positive pressure???

 

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My Cars
2006 VZ SS cammed 6Ltr ute 295rwkW
2004 BA XR6T - 290rwkW 12.5@113mph ( SOLD )
1996 EFII Fairmont - 130rwkW 15.5@91mph ( SOLD )

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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:30 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: Brisbane
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With 5.5 psi boost 3300rpm I had 6.5 psi in exhaust manifold

At 19 psi boost and 5500 rpm I had 30 psi in the exhaust manifold.

Of that 30 psi there was
19 psi equalizing the boost going in
8 psi in my 3" dump pipe and full system with 1 muffler
3 psi before the turbo

I now run a T66 with 1.32 A/R and 3.5" dump finishing under the driver seat with no muffler. It is the only way I could make the power i wanted for drag racing. obviously I had to sacrifice streetability for this. I have a Cortina so ther is not enough room to get a 4" dump down past the crossmember without seriously hacking things.
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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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MarkZE wrote:
With 5.5 psi boost 3300rpm I had 6.5 psi in exhaust manifold

At 19 psi boost and 5500 rpm I had 30 psi in the exhaust manifold.

Of that 30 psi there was
19 psi equalizing the boost going in
8 psi in my 3" dump pipe and full system with 1 muffler
3 psi before the turbo

I now run a T66 with 1.32 A/R and 3.5" dump finishing under the driver seat with no muffler. It is the only way I could make the power i wanted for drag racing. obviously I had to sacrifice streetability for this. I have a Cortina so ther is not enough room to get a 4" dump down past the crossmember without seriously hacking things.

Oops sorry I asked the Q i the wrong way...

What i ment was when your driving around when did the turbo start producing boost??? (with the 1.00ar)

 

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My Cars
2006 VZ SS cammed 6Ltr ute 295rwkW
2004 BA XR6T - 290rwkW 12.5@113mph ( SOLD )
1996 EFII Fairmont - 130rwkW 15.5@91mph ( SOLD )

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